WALTER   J.   TRAVIS 


PRACTICAL  GOLF 


by 
WALTER   J.  TRAVIS 


ILLUSTRATED  FROM 
PHO  TO  GRA  PHS 


NEW    6-    REVISED    EDITION 


NEW   YORK   AND   LONDON 

HARPER    £r    BROTHERS    PUBLISHERS 
1902 


Copyright,  1901,  by  HARPER  &  BROTHERS 


All  rights  reserved. 
May,  1901. 


CON  TE*N  TS 

PAGE 

I.  STANCE  AND  GRIP i 

II.  THE  SWING 17 

III.  THE  LONG  GAME 30 

THE  SECOND  SHOT 35 

IV.  APPROACHING 42 

V.  PUTTING 63 

VI.  PUTTING — Continued 76 

VII.  PLAYING  OUT  OF  HAZARDS 87 

VIII.  GENERAL  REMARKS 97 

IX.  CLUBS 108 

X.  CLUB  SHAFTS  .    121 

THE  BRASSEY  AND  OTHER  CLUBS 124 

BALLS 134 

XI.  CADDIES I41 

XII.  THE  CONSTRUCTION  AND  UPKEEP  OF  COURSES  145 

XIII.  PUTTING  GREENS 159 

XIV.  HANDICAPPING -. 172 

XV.  HAZARDS— Additional 181 

XVI.  THE  "  HASKELL  "•  BALL 192 

XVII.  ALUMINUM  CLUBS 201 


THE  RULES  OF  GOLF 207 

SPECIAL  RULES  FOR  STROKE  COMPETITIONS 229 

ETIQUETTE  OF  GOLF 233 

INDEX  TO  RULES 235 

GLOSSARY  OF  TECHNICAL  TERMS 244 

INDEX  . .  251 


263758 


ILL  US TRA  TIONS 
From  photographs  by  T.  C.  Turner 

WALTER  J.  TRAVIS Frontispiece 

DRIVING: 

PLAYING  OFF  THE  LEFT  LEG  .  )  PAGE 

PLAYING  OFF  THE  RIGHT  LEG  [• 5 

STANDING  SQUARE ) 

CLUB  GRIPS 9 

THE  SWING 15,  16 

TOP  OF  SWING. .  .   > 

FINISH  OF  DRIVE  ) 25 

PLAYING  A  HANGING  LIE 37 

TOP  OF  SWING — CLEEK  SHOT .  .  .  ) 

FINISH  OF  SWING— CLEEK  SHOT  \ 43 

APPROACHING: 

ADDRESS  FOR  MASHIE  SHOT,  100  YARDS  } 

TOP  OF  SWING V 47 

FINISH  OF  SWING ) 

GRIP  FOR  APPROACHING 50 

ADDRESS  FOR  MASHIE  SHOT,  60-80  YARDS  ) 

TOP  OF  SWING V 51 

FINISH   OF   SWING ) 

ADDRESS  FOR  A  BAD  LIE  } 

TOP  OF  STROKE >     57 

FINISH  OF  STROKE ) 

V 


ILLUSTRATIONS 
PUTTING: 

PUTTING  OFF  THE  LEFT  LEG  .  }  PAGE 

PUTTING  OFF  THE  RIGHT  LEG  >• 60 

STANDING  SQUARE ) 

PUTTING   GRIP 72 

CUTTING  TO  THE  LEFT  . 

CUTTING  TO  THE  RIGHT  }• 8l 

LOFTING  A  STYMIE 

PLAYING  OUT  OF  HAZARDS: 

ADDRESS  FOR   BUNKER  SHOT  } 

TOP   OF   STROKE V 89 

FINISH   OF    STROKE ) 

CLUBS— MODERN  DRIVERS 114,  115 

BALLS 135,  136 

A  TYPICAL  CADDIE 142 

THE   "  HASKELL "   BALL    20O 


IN  T  R  O  D  U  C  T I  O  N 

THE  articles  in  the  following  pages  first 
appeared  in  serial  numbers  in  Golf,  and 
met  with  such  gratifying  encouragement  that 
I  have  been  led  to  present  them  in  a  compre- 
hensive form. 

Their  aim  is  to  diffuse  some  practical  knowl- 
edge of  the  "why  and  wherefore"  of  Golf,  in 
order  to  the  better  assist  in  working  a  gen- 
eral improvement  in  play. 

With  this  hope  this  volume  is  dedicated  to 
all  lovers  of  the  game. 

WALTER  J.  TRAVIS. 


PREFACE   TO  SECOND  EDITION 

WITH  the  ink  scarce  yet  dry  it  becomes  nec- 
essary to  issue  a  second  edition,  and  I  frankly 
own  that  I  gratefully  appreciate  the  ready  rec- 
ognition which  the  first  met  with.  The  origi- 
nal work  remains  intact,  with  the  exception 
of  a  few  verbal  corrections. 

Growing  out  of  more  extended  observation 
and  experience,  a  new  chapter  has  been  added 
on  "Hazards";  also  new  chapters  concerning 
the  development  of  the  "Haskell"  ball  and 
the  introduction  of  aluminum  clubs. 

W.  J.  T. 

Feb.  14,  1902. 


PRACTICAL   GOLF 
i 

STANCE    AND    GRIP 

THE  main  object  in  the  game  of  golf  is  to 
get  the  ball  into  the  hole  in  the  fewest  possible 
number  of  strokes.  I  do  not,  therefore,  pur- 
pose entering  into  any  account  of  the  history 
of  the  game,  but  will  simply,  in  a  practical 
way,  confine  myself  to  an  endeavor  to  assist 
the  player  who  has  passed  the  rudimentary 
stage  by  describing  in  detail,  as  concisely 
as  possible,  not  only  the  several  ways  of  mak- 
ing the  various  strokes,  but  also  the  more 
common  causes  of  failure. 

It  was  my  misfortune — or  was  it  my  good 
luck? — to  take  up  golf  without  the  assistance 
of  professional  coaching  or  the  aid  of  any 
good  player,  and  that,  too,  at  a  somewhat 
advanced  age,  regarded  from  a  golfing  stand- 
A  I 


'PR  A  C  T  1  C  A  L      GOLF 

point.  Appreciating  after  a  few  attempts 
my  comparative  helplessness,  I  first  provided 
myself  with  all  the  available  literature  on 
the  subject,  and  after  digesting,  as  well  as 
the  circumstances  would  permit,  the  manifold 
instructions  laid  down  by  several  eminent 
writers,  I  then  endeavored  to  discover  by  as 
constant  practice  as  permitted  which  particu- 
lar method  best  suited  me  and  promised  the 
best  results. 

Of  course  this  involved  a  world  of  experi- 
menting before  any  fairly  well-defined  style 
was  finally  evolved,  but  all  this  experimental 
practice  was  not  by  any  means  thrown  away. 
It  brought  me  into  actual  touch  with  a  variety 
of  ways  of  making  the  different  strokes  and 
producing  the  desired  results,  and,  best  of 
all,  gave  me  a  fairly  clear  insight  into  the 
true  relation  of  cause  and  effect — valuable 
information  in  times  of  stress.  If  I  happened 
to  top,  sclaff,  slice,  or  pull,  or  do  any  of  the 
things  which  I  had  better  left  undone,  it  did 
not  take  me  long  to  locate  the  actual  trouble 
and  to  apply  a  remedy. 

It  is  therefore  a  question  in  my  mind  whether 
I  am  not  better  off  as  a  result  of  all  the  enforced 
groping  at  fundamentals,  and  having  been 
forced  to  work  out  my  own  salvation,  than  if 

2 


STANCE      AND       GRIP 

I  had  started  under  more  favorable  condi- 
tions, and  had  the  benefit  of  the  ordinary 
professional  instruction  procurable.  Which 
leads  me  to  remark,  en  passant,  that  as  a 
general  rule  the  average  professional,  while 
he  may  be  a  good  player,  lacks  the  faculty 
of  imparting  proper  information  to  beginners. 
He  can  again  and  again  give  one  a  practical 
illustration  of  how  a  certain  stroke  should  be 
made,  having,  as  a  rule,  learned  the  game 
imitatively  when  young,  and  making  the 
shot  intuitively  without  troubling  himself 
to  analyze  the  why  and  wherefore,  but  when 
it  comes  to  dissecting  the  stroke  and  explain- 
ing the  producing  causes — well,  that's  an- 
other matter,  and  usually  unsatisfactory  to 
one  of  an  investigating  turn  of  mind. 

Nevertheless,  for  the  general  run  of  be- 
ginners a  professional  coach  is  necessary 
Necessity  for  the  cultivation  of  a  proper  style  at 
^oad  the  start  if  any  degree  of  proficiency  is 
style  sought.  If  left  to  himself  the  tyro  is 
very  apt  to'  sacrifice  future  possibilities  of  ac- 
quiring the  art  of  making  a  stroke  properly — 
and  which  can  only  be  attained  by  constant 
practice  of  what  at  first  seems  the  hardest  and 
most  unnatural  way  —  in  favor  of  what  ap- 
pears the  easiest.  He  wants  to  "get  there/' 

3 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

He  does,  after  a  fashion.  He  arrives  quickly 
at  a  certain  stage  of  mediocrity,  but  improve- 
ment beyond  such  a  point  is  extremely  diffi- 
cult, if  not  impossible.  And  before  any  sub- 
stantial or  permanent  improvement  can  be 
effected,  he  will  require  to  unlearn  a  good 
deal,  and  start  afresh  on  correct  principles. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  player  who  models 
his  game  on  the  lines  of  first-class  players 
will  find  improvement  comparatively  slow, 
but  having  developed  a  correct  method  and 
sticking  to  it,  improvement  is  bound  to  follow, 
and  he  will  have  acquired  a  style  which  can 
be  fairly  depended  upon  to  decrease  his  handi- 
cap. All  good  players  work  practically  on 
the  same  basic  principles.  There  are  of  course 
certain  individual  mannerisms  and  peculiari- 
ties, but  underneath  all  these  the  bed-rock 
of  the  stroke  is  substantially  the  same.  It 
matters  little  whether  one  plays  off  the  right 
leg,  the  left  leg,  or  stands  square;  the  stroke 
is  fundamentally  the  same,  with  some  slight 
modifications,  more  or  less  effective. 

Let  us  now  proceed  to  consider  the  drive,  and 

endeavor  to  illuminate  its  most  salient 

stlnce    features.    The  position  or  stance  taken 

for  making  the  stroke  has  more  or  less 

influence  on  the  flight  of  the  ball.     These  po- 

4 


STANCE      AND      GRIP 

sitions  are  usually  known  as  playing  off  the 
right  leg,  standing  square,  or  off  the  left  leg. 
Dealing  with  the  former,  which  is  that  most 
usually  adopted — probably  for  the  reason  that 
the  player  can  see  better  the  proper  direction, 
and  feels  less  liable  to  send  the  ball  flying  off 
at  a  tangent — the  right  foot  is  placed  more 
or  less  in  advance  of  the  left,  parallel  with  the 
line  of  play,  and  according  to  the  extent  to 
which  the  right  foot  is  advanced  so  is  the 
weight  of  the  body  transferred. 

In  standing  square  both  feet  are  on  the 
same  line,  and  the  weight  rests  equally  on 
each.  Off  the  left  leg  means  that  the  right 
foot  is  withdrawn,  being  more  or  less  back 
of  the  left,  and  the  weight  of  the  body  rests 
more  or  less  on  the  latter. 

I  rather  favor  driving  off  the  left  leg,  as  it 
appears  easier  to  get  the  arms  and  body  around 
in  the  upward  swing  without  the  hitch  which 
one  seems  to  encounter  about  three-quarters 
of  the  way  up  when  the  right  foot  is  in  front. 
Apart  from  this,  however,  there  is  very  little 
difference  in  actual  results  of  length  of  drive. 
The  ease  and  rapidity  with  which  the  weight 
of  the  body  and  arms  is  transferred  from  the 
left  leg  to  the  right  and  back  again,  joined  to 
wrist  action — concerning  which  reference  will 

7 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

later  be  made  —  are  largely,  if  not  wholly,  re- 
sponsible for  long  driving.  If  one  man  can  ac- 
complish this  more  easily  and  naturally  by  a 
certain  stance,  then  by  all  means  let  him  stick 
to  it.  It  matters  little  whether  he  now  and 
then  slices  or  pulls  with  more  or  less  frequency ; 
these  faults  are  not  the  outgrowth  of  any  of 
the  styles  referred  to,  but  proceed  from  other 
causes  which  will  be  dealt  with  in  due  course. 

Reference  to  the  first  illustration  shows 
that  the  right  foot  is  a  few  inches  back  of  the 
left.  An  inch  or  so  either  way  matters  little, 
but  the  more  the  right  is  advanced,  the  greater 
is  the  check  towards  getting  the  arms  and  body 
around,  and  the  upward  swing  is  curtailed 
accordingly,  and  the  distance  of  the  resultant 
stroke  shortened.  So  clearly  is  this  recog- 
nized that  by  far  the  large  majority  of  good 
players  instinctively  control  and  regulate 
their  approach  shots  in  this  manner.  The 
shorter  the  distance  to  be  traversed,  the  more 
the  right  foot  is  advanced,  as  a  general  rule. 
With  but  few  exceptions  the  very  longest 
drivers  have  the  right  foot  slightly  back  of 
the  left.  So  much  for  the  stance.  Now  for 
the  grip. 

Reference  to  Fig.  4  shows  that  the  club 
rests  more  at  the  base  of  the  fingers,  while 

8 


FIG.  6 


STANCE      AND      GRIP 

Fig.  5  indicates  a  firmer  grip  well  in  the  palms 
of  the  hands.  The  latter  is,  in  my  opinion, 
concern  more  conducive  to  greater  power  and 
ing  the  productive  of  longer  distance.  Fig.  6 
shows  a  still  sturdier  grip,  with  both 
hands,  more  in  the  palms  and  with  the  knuc- 
kles well  under.  This  style  is  more  affected 
by  cricketers  and  baseball-players,  but  is  open 
to  the  objection  that  it  induces  a  tendency  to 
hit  the  ball  with  tautened  muscles,  and  dis- 
courages a  proper  follow  through.  Nor  does 
it  permit  of  a  sufficiently  free  play  of  the 
wrists,  which  is  absolutely  essential  to  long 
driving. 

The  relation  of  the  hands  to  each  other  is 
a  very  important  point.  If  ,the  left  hand  is 
held  with  the  knuckles  under,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  6,  the  right  hand  must  also  be  gripped 
well  under ;  otherwise,  if  held  with  the  knuckles 
not  so  far  around,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4,  an 
almost  certain  slice  will  be  the  result.  In- 
versely, if  the  left  hand  grips  as  in  Fig.  4, 
and  the  right  as  in  Fig.  6,  a  pull  will  result. 
The  reason  is  simple  and  apparent.  By  way 
of  practical  illustration  rest  the  club  squarely 
on  the  ground,  held  lightly  in  the  tips  of  the 
fingers,  with  the  face  at  a  right  angle  to  the 
line  of  play,  then  grip  with  the  left  hand  only, 

II 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

with  the  knuckles  well  under;  withdraw  the 
club  a  yard  or  so  and  bring  it  back  to  its  orig- 
inal position,  and  it  will  be  found  to  have  the 
face  turned  outward  slightly  to  the  right. 
Unless  the  grip  of  the  right  hand  also  has  the 
knuckles  well  under,  the  hands  are  not  acting 
in  unison,  and  the  ball  will  go  to  the  right. 
On  the  other  hand,  if  the  club  be  held  with  the 
right  hand  only,  with  the  knuckles  well  under, 
and  the  same  operation  repeated,  it  will  be 
found  that  the  face  of  the  club  will  be  slightly 
turned  in  and  a  pull  will  be  the  outcome.  This 
matter  of  grip  is  one  of  the  most  pregnant 
causes  of  slicing  and  pulling.  There  are 
others  of  comparatively  lesser  importance, 
however,  which  will  be  treated  further  on. 
Perhaps  the  best  guide  to  insure  the  proper 
relation  of  the  hands  is  to  grip  with  both  hands, 
with  the  knuckles  well  up,  so  that  the  Vs 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  thumb  and  first 
finger  of  each  hand  are  in  a  straight  line  as 
viewed  by  the  pla}^er  looking  down  the  shaft. 
This  position,  however,  is  cramped  and  un- 
comfortable, and  is  not  recommended,  ex- 
cept for  the  purpose  mentioned.  Now  it  is 
important  to  remember  that  in  changing  from 
the  position  described,  as  the  left  hand  is 
turned  towards  the  left,  outwardly,  the  right 

12 


STANCE      AND      GRIP 

hand  must  also  be  turned  to  the  right,  out- 
wardly, in  a  corresponding  degree,  If  either 
hand  is  allowed  to  turn  more  than  the  other 
the  face  of  the  club  will  not  present  a  true 
right  angle  to  the  ball,  and  a  slice  or  pull 
will  the  more  likely  be  produced,  as  the  case 
may  be. 

The  laws  of  motion  are  unchangeable,  and 
a  ball  hit  in  exactly  the  same  manner  each 
time  will  follow  the  same  course  again  and 
again  without  the  slightest  variation.  To 
do  this,  however,  is  extremely  difficult,  if  not 
impossible,  and  therein  lies  half,  or  perhaps 
more  than  half,  of  the  fascination  of  the  game. 
It  is  human  nature  to  be  forever  striving  for 
the  unattainable — in  golf,  to  repeat  at  every 
hole  that  magnificent  drive,  that  approach 
which  came  within  an  ace  of  holing  out  and 
which  is  absolutely  dead,  or  that  putt  a  dozen 
or  so  yards  off  which  found  the  bottom  of  the 
tin,  and  was  destined  to  do  so  from  the  start. 
During  the  round  one  or  more  of  these  perfect 
strokes  occur,  even  to  the  veriest  tyro,  and 
their  successful  accomplishment  tends  to  make 
large  amends  for  the  far  greater  number  of 
badly  executed  shots,  and  to  keep  alive  the 
keen  desire  to  duplicate  them — if  not  at  this 
hole,  at  the  next — if  not  to-day,  to-morrow. 

13 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

After  this  digression  it  is  time  to  revert 
to  the  unfinished  question  of  the  grip.  As  a 
general  rule  the  left  hand  should  grip  some- 
what more  firmly  than  the  right.  At  the  same 
time  the  club  should  be  held  pretty  tightly 
with  both  hands.  Gripping  tightly  with  the 
right  hand  is  apt  to  cause  pulling,  due  either 
to  the  tendency  to  slightly  turn  the  face  of  the 
club  in  at  the  moment  of  impact  with  the  ball, 
or  to  the  difficulty  of  going  properly  through 
and  bringing  the  arms  around  instead  of  letting 
them  go  freely  away  after  the  ball.  If  a  man 
is  constantly  pulling,  a  remedy  may  be  found 
by  holding  the  club  more  loosely  in  the  right 
hand.  If,  however,  this  does  not  correct  the 
trouble  he  will  probably  find  that  he  is  grip- 
ping wrong — either  too  far  around  with  the 
right  hand  or  not  far  enough  with  the  left, 
usually  the  former.  If,  on  the  other  hand, 
he  is  slicing,  he  will  almost  assuredly  effect 
a  cure  by  gripping  tightly  with  the  right  hand, 
or  by  paying  closer  attention  to  the  harmo- 
nious grip  of  both  hands,  as  already  touched 
upon,  and  by  following  through  properly.  In 
this  connection,  however,  it  is  proper  to  add 
that  other  causes  may  lie  at  the  root  of 
the  trouble  than  those  already  mentioned. 
These  will  be  taken  up  when  the  matters  of 

14 


STANCE      AND      GRIP 

swing  and  the  relative  position  of  the  player 
to  the  ball  are  gone  into. 

Having  thus  far  disposed  of  the  questions 
of  stance  and  grip,  I   will    endeavor   to    ana- 
lyze the  swing.     Too  much  stress  can- 
sw^ng    n°t  be  laid  on  the  importance  of  utiliz- 
ing the  wrists  properly.     Reference  to 
Fig.  7  shows  the  club  about  half-way  up  to  the 
shoulder.      Comparison  with  Fig.  8  discloses 
several  points  of  dissimilarity.     In  the  first  the 
hands  and  arms  have  been  taken  up  straight, 
and  the  club's  face  is  looking  more  squarely 
at  the  ball.     The  knuckles  of  both  hands  are 
in  practically  the  same  position  as  when  the 


FIG.  7 


ball  was  addressed,  whereas  in  the  succeeding 
illustration  it  will  be  seen  that  the  club  face 

15 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

is  turned  more  away  from  the  ball,  and  the 
knuckles   of  both   hands   have   turned  corre- 


FIG.  8 


spondingly.  In  the  former  case  the  wrists 
have  been  held  rigid,  while  in  the  latter  they 
have  been  allowed,  in  a  perfectly  natural 
manner,  to  turn.  This  turn  of  the  wrist 
exercises  considerable  influence  on  the  speed 
of  the  swing,  accelerating  it  in  a  very  marked 
degree — imparting  velocity  in  the  downward 
stroke  which  cannot  so  well  be  secured  in 
any  other  way.  This  fact  can  easily  be  de- 
monstrated by  swinging  a  cane  or  a  headless 
shaft,  first  with  the  wrists  rigid  and  then 
supple,  with  the  turn  described.  The  dif- 
ference will  be  at  once  apparent. 


II 

THE    SWING 

THE  wrist  movement  may  be  said  to  be 
mainly  contributed  by  the  left  hand  in  its 
The  part  initial  stages,  the  right  wrist  following 
wrists  m  unison-  At  the  top  of  the  swing  the 
perform  knuckles  of  the  left  hand  will  be  lying 
almost  flat  and  uppermost,  the  toe  of  the  club 
pointing  almost  straight  down  to  the  ground. 
The  trouble  with  the  large  majority  of  players 
who  do  not  drive  well  proceeds  from  the  fear 
that  if  the  face  of  the  club  is  allowed  to  be 
diverted  in  the  upward  swing  from  the  angle 
at  which  the  ball  was  addressed — if,  in  other 
words,  it  is  turned  in  any  way — a  slice  will 
result.  Consequently  it  is  carried  up  straight 
and  the  stroke  is  robbed  of  a  great  deal  of  power. 
There  need  be  no  such  fear.  Start  the  wrists 
right  in  the  upward  movement  and  they  will 
take  care  of  themselves  in  the  downward  swing, 
if  left  alone.  If  the  turn  is  hurried,  however, 
B  17 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

the  face  of  the  club  will  be  turned  slightly 
in  and  the  ball  foundered  or  pulled,  while  if 
the  turn  is  not  made  soon  enough  a  slice  will 
result,  owing  to  the  club  face  pointing  some- 
what to  the  right. 

After  the  ball  is  struck,  everything  syn- 
chronizing harmoniously,  the  hands  and  arms 
should  be  allowed  to  go  well  forward,  and  about 
half-way  on  the  follow  through  the  wrists  will 
again  perform  a  turn  exactly  the  reverse  of 
that  in  the  upward  swing.  Before  we  arrive 
at  that  stage,  however,  it  is  proper  to  say  a 
few  words  concerning  the  upward  swing. 

With  the  club  gripped  pretty  firmly  with 
both  hands  in  the  manner  already  described, 
it  is  well  to  see  that  the  whole  machinery  is  in 
good  working  order  by  waggling  the  club  a 
few  times  over  the  ball,  allowing  the  wrists  to 
turn  freely,  without,  however,  relaxing  the 
grip.  The  waggle  should  be  entirely  free 
from  any  stiffness.  Which  simply  means 
that  the  wrists  should  be  brought  into  active 
play.  Do  not  on  any  account  in  this  pre- 
liminary address  lift  the  club  up.  Lifting 
the  club  presupposes  stiffness  and  rigidity 
of  muscles,  and  the  resultant  stroke  cannot 
be  thoroughly  satisfactory.  By  means  largely 
of  the  wrists  swing  the  club  back  of  the  ball 

18 


THE      S WING 

as  far  as  it  will  go  along  the  ground — some 
three  or  four  inches — until  the  arms  assert 
themselves,  and  raise  it  on  its  upward  journey ; 
continue  the  swing  until  the  club  is  about 
horizontal  back  of  and  across  the  right  shoulder, 
allowing  the  body  to  freely  turn  at  the  same 
time  in  a  natural  and  unassisted  manner; 
keep  the  head  perfectly  still,  with  the  eye 
intently  fastened  on  the  ball;  and,  when  the 
top  of  the  swing  is  reached,  without  paus- 
ing, bring  the  arms  and  body  around  as 
swiftly  as  possible  and  swish  the  ball  away. 

Now  there  are  several  things  you  must  not 
do,  apart  from  those  mentioned.     Do  not  seek 

to  artificially  raise  the  left  foot  on  the 
D^ts1   toe.     Strive  rather  to  keep  it  rooted — 

the  natural  turn  of  the  shoulders  and 
body  rotating  to  the  right  will  bring  it  up  and 
around.  Keep  the  right  leg  as  stiff  and  as 
straight  as  possible.  And  whatever  you  do, 
don't  move  the  head. 

The  time-honored  injunction  laid  down  by 
all  writers  and   teachers   to  "keep  your  eye 

on  the  ball" — which  eye,  by-the-way? 
Head     — would  be  more   aptly  expressed  by 

insisting  upon  the  head  being  kept 
absolutely  still  and  in  the  same  position  as 
in  the  address  until  the  ball  is  struck  —  or 

19 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

even  a  moment  after.  If  the  head  is  kept  still 
no  swaying  of  the  body  can  be  indulged  in, 
and  hands,  arms,  and  everything  must  revert 
to  the  original  position  assumed  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  stroke,  thus  insuring  the 
ball  being  hit  cleanly.  If,  however,  the  head 
is  allowed  to  move,  the  chances  are  that  a 
sclaff  or  a  top  will  result.  If  the  head  is  kept 
in  the  same  position  throughout  the  swing, 
the  player  may  even  go  so  far  as  to  abso- 
lutely shut  his  eyes  and  be  reasonably  cer- 
tain of  getting  the  ball  well  away,  provided  no 
jerk  is  introduced.  Any  doubt  as  to  whether 
the  head  is  moved  may  easily  be  satisfied  by 
the  player  assuming  a  position  with  the  sun 
immediately  back  of  him,  and  watching  the 
shadow  of  his  head  during  the  swing.  If  the 
head  is  shown  to  move,  the  swing  should  be 
persistently  practised  until  this  fault  is  reme- 
died. 

It  has  been  suggested  that  in  the  upward 

swing  the  club  should  be  swept  close  to  the 

ground.     This  flattening  of  the  arc  of 

about  the  the  circle  will  largely  prevent  any  ten- 

nng    dency  to  strike  into  the  ground  back  of 

the  ball,  for  as  the  club  is  withdrawn  so  it  will 

almost  assuredly  describe  the  same  course  in 

the  downward  swing.     It  will  furthermore  con- 

20 


THE       SWING 

siderably  lessen  the  chances  of  driving  a  high 
ball.  Moreover,  the  flatter  the  swing,  the 
greater  is  the  latitude  for  correction  of  any 
error.  The  accompanying  diagrams  will  il- 
lustrate this  very  clearly. 

The  swing  indicated  in  Diagram  9  means 
that  the  club  has  been  taken  more  vertically 
away  from  the  ball  in   the 
upward  stroke,  and  has  con- 
sequently been  brought  down 


FIG  9  straighter.     In   Diagram    10 

it  will  be  observed  that  the  swing   is   much 
flatter,  and  as  the  arc  of 
the   circle   is    greater,   the 
club  head  is  moving  longer 


in  the  same  plane  as  the  FIG  io 

ball,  thereby  augmenting  the  chances  of  hit- 
ting it  more  correctly. 

Reference  has  been  made  to  the  introduction 
of  a  jerk  in  the  swing.     This  is  generally  a  sure 
sign  of  pressing — i.  e.,  suddenly  exert- 
prTss     mS  more  power  than  usual.    The  effect 
usually  is  to  depress  the  right  shoulder, 
and  sclaff  badly.     If  the  extra  power  is  har- 
moniously distributed,  no  harm  is  done.     As  a 
general  thing,  however,  it  is  advisable  to  keep 
back  some  reserve  force.    The  man  who  utilizes 
his  full  measure  of  existent  strength  at  every 

21 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

full  stroke  is  far  more  liable  to  drive  unsteadily 
than  he  who  represses  such  inclination  and 
determines  to  keep  well  within  his  natural 
limitations,  and  the  few  yards  occasionally 
gained  by  pressing  when  the  shot  comes  off 
do  not  compensate  for  the  more  frequent 
foozles. 

It  is  not  given  to  every  one  to  drive  a  very 
long  ball.  The  unusually  long  players  possess 
certain  physical  advantages  which  are 
DnTing  denied  to  ordinary  mankind  in  a  de- 
gree. Some  naturally  are  gifted  with 
abnormal  wrist  power  or  strength  of  arms  or  a 
very  rapid  swing,  either  singly  or  collectively. 
All  of  these  qualities  may  be  developed  to  a 
certain  extent  by  less  favored  mortals.  Occa- 
sionally, by  a  happy  conjunction  of  all  the  ele- 
ments that  constitute  the  perfect  stroke,  an 
unusually  long  ball  may  be  driven,  but  there 
is  a  natural  average  limit  to  every  man's  long 
game,  and  a  full  recognition  of  this  fact  would 
save  many  a  wasted  stroke. 

Reverting  to  the  question  of  keeping  the 
eye  on  the  ball,  or,  in  other  words,  of  keeping 

Keep  the  head  still,  countless  are  the  strokes 
y°^rt^e  imperfectly  made  through  looking  up 

Ban  a  fraction  of  a  second  before  the  ball 
is  properly  struck.  This  diversion  of  the  eyes 

22 


THE      SWING 

from  the  ball  causes  the  head  to  move,  and 
with  it  the  arms,  and  the  chances  of  clean 
hitting  are  materially  lessened.  After  the  ball 
is  struck  no  power  exerted  by  the  eyes  can 
exercise  the  slightest  influence  on  the  ball. 
To  insure  the  stroke  being  properly  made  it 
is  not  a  bad  plan  to  keep  the  eyes  fastened 
on  the  spot  where  the  ball  was  before  the 
stroke  was  completed. 

In  the  upward  swing  do  not  allow  the  club 
to  go  so  far  back  as  to  lose  command  of  it. 
It  is  not  really  the  length  alone  of  the  back- 
ward swing  that  contributes  distance  so  much 
as  the  rapidity  with  which  the  club  head  is 
moving  at  and  just  after  the  moment  of  im- 
pact. Very  many  players  are  enabled  to 
secure  the  desired  velocity  with  a  compara- 
tively short  swing  and  get  almost  as  long  a 
ball  and  generally  a  straighter  one  than  the 
devotee  of  a  full  swing. 

Timing  the  stroke  properly  is  of  vast  im- 
portance. Usually  the  player  is  in  too  much 
of  a  hurry  to  get  the  ball  away,  and  hits  too 
soon.  Let  him  resolve  to  centralize  the  power 
of  the  stroke  immediately  the  ball  is  reached, 
and  carry  it  through  the  ball,  and  a  gratifying 
increase  of  distance  will  be  manifested  and  a 
sweeter  feeling  communicated. 

23 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

Do  not  ease  up  as  soon  as  the  ball  is  struck; 
by  all  means  keep  up  steam  until  the  arms  are 

The      well   away  on   their   upward  journey. 

Follow-   A  great  deal  more  depends  upon  the 

maintenance  of  speed  after  the  ball  is 

struck  than  is  commonly  supposed.     This  part 

of  the  stroke  is  known  as  the  follow-through, 

and  plays  a  very  important  part  in  the  length 

of  the  drive,  as  well  as  in  straightness. 

All  which  has  been  said  concerning  the 
driving  stroke  may  be  largely  practised  in- 
doors, without  a  ball.  The  only  objection  is 
that  the  player  cannot  see  himself,  and  unless 
he  is  under  the  eyes  of  a  competent  instructor, 
is  very  apt  to  drift  into  faulty  methods  of  exe- 
cution. Such  solitary  practice,  therefore,  is 
not  advisable  to  any  great  extent. 

So  far,  the  component  parts  of  the  swing 
have  been  analyzed  without  detailed  reference 
to  the  position  of  the  player  to  the  ball.  This 
has  a  very  marked  and  varying  influence  on 
the  stroke,  and  is  deserving  of  a  few  words. 
Broadly  speaking,  the  nearer  the  ball  is  to 
the  left  foot  the  higher  it  will  be  driven,  and 
with  a  greater  tendency  to  be  sliced  than  if 
placed  nearer  to  the  right  foot,  the  latter  posi- 
tion being  more  provocative  of  a  lower  tra- 
jectory and  a  pull.  The  leading  cause  of  a 

24 


THE      SWING 

high  ball  being  driven  is  attributable  to  the 
fact  that  the  position  assumed  is  such  that  the 
club  is  just  on  the  eve  of  its  upward  journey, 
and  the  face  consequently  is  slightly  turned 
back,  towards  the  player. 

The  tendency  to  slice  is  due  partly  to  the 
restricted  area  left  for  the  club  to  go  through 

siicin      the  ball,  making  it  more  difficult  to  fol- 
and      low  on  properly,  and  also  in  a  measure 

Pulling  to  the  ball  being  hit  slightly  to  the  right 
of  its  centre.  Either  of  these  causes  alone  will 
produce  a  slice.  Striking  the  ball  to  the  right 
of  its  centre  will  impart  a  rotary  movement 
from  left  to  right.  Being  struck  to  the  right, 
the  ball  will  naturally  start  off  to  the  left  of  a 
straight  line,  and  as  the  energy  of  the  forward 
stroke  diminishes,  the  power  of  the  spin  will  as- 
sert itself  and  cause  the  ball  to  describe  a  curve 
to  the  right.  With  a  pulled  ball  it  is  just  the 
opposite — the  ball  is  hit  to  the  left  of  its  centre, 
i.  e.,  nearer  the  player,  producing  a  spin  from 
right  to  left.  When  the  ball  is  placed  nearer  to 
the  right  foot  the  point  of  contact  with  the  club 
in  the  ordinary  swing  is  brought  nearer  to 
the  player.  With  the  ball  placed  about  mid- 
way between  the  two  positions  mentioned  the 
club  will  meet  it  exactly  in  the  centre,  and  a 
rotary  movement  in  a  straight  line  is  im- 

27 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

parted,  and  given  that  the  head  is  allowed 
to  go  straight  through  the  ball,  no  slice  or  pull 
can  result.  If,  however,  the  ball  is  hit  dead 
in  the  centre,  and  the  arms  be  drawn  in  at  the 
moment  of  impact,  a  slight  slice  will  ensue, 
as  a  modified  spin  from  left  to  right  will  be 
given  the  ball. 

Apart  from  these  causes  slicing  or  pulling 
may  follow  from  the  ball  being  hit  in  the  centre, 
but  with  an  inclination  towards  the  heel  or  toe 
of  the  club.  If  hit  on  the  heel  the  weight  of 
lead  behind  the  point  of  impact  leans  to  the 
right,  and  a  slice  is  invited,  while  the  reverse 
is  true  in  favor  of  a  pull  if  the  ball  be  hit  on  the 
toe  of  the  club.  At  the  same  time  it  may  read- 
ily be  understood  from  the  foregoing  that  it 
is  possible  to  slice  with  toeing  and  pull  with 
heeling,  although  this  is  not  commonly  done. 
A  slice  pure  and  simple  invariably  describes 
a  curve  from  left  to  right,  the  curvature  being 
governed  by  the  amount  of  spin.  A  pull  is 
just  the  reverse.  Neither  must  be  confounded 
with  a  clean-hit,  straight-flying  ball  which 
is  off  the  line,  to  the  right  or  the  left,  from 
start  to  finish. 

Such  error  in  direction  is  usually  due  to  a 
faulty  stance  — to  the  player  being  turned 
away  from  the  hole  to  the  right  or  around 

28 


THE      SWING 

too  much  to  the  left.  Yet  very  many  players 
misapprehensively  speak  of  such  strokes  as 
being  sliced  or  pulled.  A  true  conception  of 
the  governing  cause  would  go  a  great  way 
towards  correcting  the  trouble.  The  illustra- 
tions (Figs.  II  and  12)  show  the  top  of  the 
swing  and  finish  of  the  stroke,  respectively. 


Ill 

THE    LONG    GAME 

IN  the  upward  swing  it  will  be  noticed  that 
the  body  has  been  turned  very  freely,  with  the 
natural  transferrence  of  weight  almost  en- 
tirely to  the  right  foot,  and  that  the  left  foot 
has  been  pulled  up  and  around  on  the  toe. 
Without  such  aid  the  downward  stroke  would 
be  lacking  in  pith.  To  get  the  shoulders 
into  the  stroke  they  must  first  come  around, 
in,  conjunction  with  the  lower  part  of  one's 
anatomy,  smoothly  and  freely  revolving  on 
an  axis  which  may  be  represented  by  an  imag- 
inary line  drawn  from  the  head  straight  down 
the  back.  Otherwise  the  arms  alone,  un- 
assisted to  any  appreciable  extent,  are  called 
upon  to  do  the  work,  with  material  loss  of 
distance. 

Another  point  may  be  observed :  The  club 
head  has  only  a  very  slight  dip  from  the  hori- 
zontal at  the  top  of  the  swing.  This,  com- 

30 


THE      LONG      GAME 

bined  with  the  free  turn  of  the  body,  indicates 
a  pretty  firm  grip  with  both  hands,  with  a 
sense  of  command  over  the  club. 

In  the  other  illustration  the  position  is  al- 
most exactly  reversed,  the  right  foot  rising 

The      on  the  toe,  due  to  the  weight  of  the 

Body-  body  being  thrown  by  the  swing  on 
to  the  left,  and  the  club  finishing 
over  the  left  shoulder. 

As  a  general  thing  the  majority  of  players 
fail  to  properly  utilize  the  weight  of  the  body 
and  drive  mainly  with  the  arms  only,  and  they 
also  take  the  club  too  far  back  in  the  upward 
swing.  Another  very  common  fault  is  falling 
back  immediately  after  striking  the  ball. 

Every  golfing  stroke  describes  a  circle,  or  a 
segment  of  a  circle.  With  a  long  shaft  the 
periphery  is  of  course  larger  than  with  a  short 
one,  and  flatter.  In  other  words,  with  a  long 
shaft  the  club  head  is  not  moving  so  long  in 
the  proposed  direction  of  the  flight  of  the  ball 
as  it  is  with  a  short  shaft.  This  would  not 
be  the  case  if  the  centre  of  the  circle  could 
be  raised  in  proportion  to  its  circumference,  but 
the  axis  of  the  circle,  represented  by  the 

Vardon's       -i  •  11  •  11 

Accuracy  Player.  remains  the  same  in  all  cases. 

The  paramount  reason,  if  not  indeed  the 

only  one,  for  Harry  Vardon's  consistent  accu- 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

racy  of  direction  is  due,  in  the  present  writer's 
opinion,  to  his  using  short  shafts,  and  by  stand- 
ing pretty  erect  to  the  ball.  The  axis  of  the 
swing  is  in  a  more  perpendicular  plane  to  the 
ball,  with  the  inevitable  result  that  the  club 
head  is  moving  longer  in  the  line  of  play. 
This  insures  the  ball  being  struck  more  accu- 
rately in  the  centre,  and,  what  is  of  equal  im- 
portance, of  the  club  going  through  the  ball 
straighter.  The  movement  of  the  arms  is  nat- 
urally out  and  towards  the  hole,  while  with  a 
long  club  more  or  less  of  an  effort  is  required 
to  let  the  arms  go  forward  instead  of  obeying 
their  natural  inclination  to  turn  around  to  the 
left. 

If  neither  the  ball  nor  the  club  head  possessed 
resiliency  it  would  matter  little  what  became 
The  im-  °f  the  club  after  the  ball  were  hit  true, 
portance  f^g  point  of  contact  is  very  small, 
Follow-  hardly  any  larger  than  a  pin  head, 
Through  y^.  everv  player  must  frequently  have 
noticed  the  imprint  of  the  ball  on  the  head 
after  a  vigorous  stroke,  sometimes  as  large 
as,  if  not  larger  than,  a  silver  quarter.  This 
flattening  of  the  ball  furnishes  proof  that  it 
is  in  actual  contact  with  the  club  for  a  frac- 
tion of  time  after  being  struck,  and  during 
that  time  is  of  course  travelling  in  the  same 

32 


THE      LONG      GAME 

direction  as  the  head  —  probably  for  an  inch  or 
so.  Consequently  it  becomes  a  matter  of  im- 
portance what  becomes  of  the  club  head  just 
after  the  moment  of  impact,  when  ball  and 
head  are  practically  one.  During  this  crucial 
part  of  the  stroke  the  head  should  be  at  right 
angles  to  the  line  of  play.  This  is  the  essence 
of  the  follow-through,  and  it  is  probably  due 
to  a  practical  recognition  of  this  principle  and 
by  the  simple  means  employed  that  Vardon's 
play  is  so  uniformly  straight,  using,  as  he 
does,  very  short  clubs.  I  am  not  sure  also  that 
his  peculiar  grip  does  not  lend  to  accu- 
racy>  as  by  putting  the  thumbs  down 


the  shaft  and  overlapping  the  forefinger 
of  the  left  hand  with  the  little  finger  of  the 
right  hand,  it  is  practically  impossible  for  the 
club  to  turn  in  the  hands  in  the  upward  or 
downward  swing,  and  therefore  it  must  revert 
to  its  original  position,  as  in  the  address.  Var- 
don  himself  avers  that  he  can  drive  a  longer 
ball  with  what  may  be  termed  the  orthodox 
grip,  but  at  the  sacrifice  of  accuracy,  and  I  find 
no  reason  to  doubt  this.  I  know  of  a  number 
of  good  players  who  have  adopted  this  Vardon 
grip,  and  who  assert  that  their  direction  has 
been  wonderfully  improved.  Vardon,  however, 
has  been  endowed  by  nature  with  very  large 
C  33 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

hands,  and,  using  comparatively  thin  grips— 
which,  by-the-way,  cannot  be  too  strongly 
recommended — he  is  obliged  to  get  rid  of  his 
fingers  in  some  way,  hence  perhaps  the  par- 
ticular style  adopted.  He  also  possesses  un- 
usually strong  wrists,  which,  combined  with 
the  fact  that  he  "hits  so  blamed  hard/'  ac- 
counts for  the  distance  obtained. 

Unless  the  ordinary  player  is  gifted  with 
such  advantages — i.  e.,  big  hands  and  strong 
wrists — he  probably  will  get  better  general 
results  by  gripping  in  the  regulation  manner 
and  by  using  shorter  clubs, 

It  may  have  been  noticed  that  Vardon's 
long  shots  are  principally  all  carry.  This 
is  partly  attributable  to  the  upright  swing. 
The  enormous  distance  obtained,  however,  is 
such  that  he  can  well  afford  to  do  without 
the  roll  which  follows  from  using  longer  clubs 
and  playing  with  a  flatter  swing*  The  longer 
the  club,  however,  as  already  pointed  out,  the 
greater  is  the  liability  to  slice  or  pull. 

It  will  be  noticed  in  the  foregoing  illustration 
that  in  the  finish  of  the  stroke  the  hands  are 
pretty  well  over  the  left  shoulder.  The  natural 
tendency  of  such  is  to  induce  more  or  less  of  a 
pull.  It  may  be  laid  down  as  an  axiom  that 
the  farther  the  arms  are  carried  around  to 

34 


THE      LONG      GAME 

the  left,  between  the  neck  and  shoulder,  the 
greater  is  the  pull  when  the  ball  is  played  from 
a  point  nearer  to  the  right  foot,  and  the  greater 
is  the  slice  when  the  ball  is  nearer  to  the  left 
foot.  The  operating  causes  have  already  been 
explained. 

Unless  against  an  adverse  cross-wind,  the 
writer  generally  plays  with  the  deliberate  inten- 
tion of  getting  a  touch  of  pull.  Such  a 
fo7aypuii  ball  has  great  running  powers,  and,  be- 
ing usually  comparatively  low,  is  ex- 
ceedingly effective  against  the  wind.  Occasion- 
ally, however,  the  pull  fails  to  materialize,  but 
no  great  harm  results  unless  too  much  allow- 
ance has  been  made  for  the  hook.  The  finish 
of  the  stroke,  so  far  as  the  position  of  the 
hands  is  concerned,  is  largely  governed  by 
the  line  of  retraction. 

THE  SECOND  SHOT 

On  all  first-class  links  a  large  number  of 
the  holes  should  be  so  laid  out  in  respect  to 
distance  as  to  call  for  at  least  two  full  shots 
to  reach  the  green.  Where  the  lie  admits  and 
distance  is  required,  the  driver  is  preferably  the 
club  to  use.  It  frequently  happens,  however, 
that  the  ball  is  not  lying  well,  and  the  brassey 

35 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

is  called  into  requisition,  a  slightly  greater 
amount  of  loft  on  the  face  enabling  the  player 
to  get  the  ball  up  more  quickly.  In  this  con- 
nection it  may  be  remarked  that  the 
B"iaSy Y  better  the  player  the  greater  is  his  abil- 
ity to  negotiate  a  poor  lie.  The  stroke 
is  practically  the  same  as  a  tee  shot,  excepting 
that  the  club  should  be  taken  up  somewhat 
more  vertically  and  the  hands  slightly  drawn 
up  immediately  after  the  ball  is  struck,  thus 
making  the  swing  somewhat  more  elliptical 
than  in  the  drive  proper.  The  ball  should  be 
struck  very  accurately,  and  rather  with  the 
idea  of  driving  it  into  the  ground.  The  lofted 
face,  joined  to  the  slight  whipping  up  of  the 
hands  at  the  proper  time — that  is,  after  the 
club  meets  the  ball — will  produce  the  desired 
result.  Do  not,  on  any  account,  seek  to  bring 
the  hands  up  too  quickly,  otherwise  a  top  will 
assuredly  result.  Play  with  the  ball  somewhat 
nearer  the  right  foot,  and  don't  hurry  the 
swing.  Disabuse  your  mind  of  any  idea  that 
a  little  more  effort  than  usual  is  necessary; 
rather  go  to  the  other  extreme  and  take  things 
quietly,  and  concentrate  everything  upon  hit- 
ting the  ball  accurately  and  smoothly. 

For  brassey  shots  generally,  it  will  be  found 
an  aid  towards  accurate  striking  to  look  not 

36 


FIG.  13 
PLAYING  A  HANGING  LIE 


THE      LONG      GAME 

at  the  ball  itself,  but  immediately  back  of  it. 
This  will  largely  prevent  the  common  tendency 
to  top.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  general  run 
of  strokes  are  sclaffed,  the  player  may  find  a 
remedy  by  reversing  the  process  and  looking 
squarely  at  the  ball,  or  even  at  that  part  of  it 
which  is  nearer  to  the  hole.  With  a  little 
practice  the  player  may  very  soon  satisfy  him- 
self as  to  the  correct  point  of  aim  adaptable  to 
his  particular  style.  As  in  the  tee  shot  it  is 
very  important  to  keep  in  mind  the  necessity 
of  timing  the  stroke  properly.  Too  much 
energy  is  generally  wasted  by  introducing  the 
power  too  soon.  Let  the  upward  swing  be 
such  as  to  get  the  club  back  pretty  smartly 
to  the  horizontal,  and  to  bring  it  down  so  as 
to  get  the  maximum  amount  of  speed  within 
about  eighteen  inches  or  so  before  the  ball 
and  about  a  couple  of  feet  after  the  ball.  Con- 
centrate all  the  power  in  that  spread  of  about 
three  or  four  feet.  Upon  the  wrists  devolves 
the  main  burden  of  this  particular  part  of  the 
swing.  They  impart  that  delightful  snap 
which  contributes  so  materially  to  length 
without  apparent  effort.  This  wrist  move- 
ment in  itself  is  not  discernible  to  the  eyes 
of  the  onlooker,  except  in  so  far  as  it  differen- 
tiates the  stroke  from  the  ordinary  one  where 

39 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

the  hands  are  taken  back  straighter — and,  of 
course,  brought  down  correspondingly.  It 
cannot  be  illustrated  in  the  ordinary  photo- 
graph, and,  indeed,  is  very  difficult  to  accu- 
rately describe. 

Very  many  players  have  no  difficulty  in 
getting  away  very  good  balls  from  the  tee, 
piaying  a  but  are  troubled  in  negotiating  a 
Hanging  brassey  shot.  This  is  perhaps  largely 
attributable  to  using  too  high  a  tee. 
Driving  from  a  lower  tee,  or  none  at  all,  will 
be  found  very  helpful  when  it  comes  to  the 
second  shot. 

After  the  drive,  and  with  the  hole  still  some 
one  hundred  and  seventy  or  one  hundred  and 
eighty  yards  away,  it  will  sometimes  hap- 
pen that  the  ball  has  to  be  played  from  a 
hanging  lie  sloping  towards  the  hole,  with  a 
bunker  intervening.  To  get  the  ball  up  more 
quickly  hit  it  slightly  on  the  heel  of  the  club, 
making  allowance  for  the  resultant  slice  by 
aiming  somewhat  to  the  left  of  the  hole.  Take 
particular  care  to  let  the  club  go  through 
the  ball  according  to  the  dip  of  the  ground, 
and  not  to  turn  the  face  in. 

Illustration  Fig.  13  will  serve  to  furnish  an 
idea  as  to  the  stance  adopted  for  this  particu- 
lar stroke.  It  will  be  observed  that  the  ball 

40 


THE      LONG      GAME 

is  much  nearer  to  the  left  foot  than  in  the  tee 
shot,  while  the  right  foot  is  more  advanced, 
being  a  couple  of  inches  or  so  in  front.  By 
striking  the  ball  slightly  towards  the  heel  of 
the  club  and  immediately  after  bringing  the 
arms  somewhat  in  and  finishing  well  out,  a 
slight  spin  is  imparted  to  the  ball  which  causes 
it  to  rise  more  quickly.  To  further  assist  in 
getting  the  ball  up  the  hands  should  be  held 
somewhat  lower  down  than  usual,  so  as  to 
bring  the  heel  of  the  club  closer  to  the  ground 
and  the  toe  slightly  cocked  up. 


IV 

APPRO  A CHING 

THE  "quarter"  game,  with  putting  a  very 
close  second,  may  be  regarded  as  the  most 
difficult  part  of  the  art  of  golf.  In  driving 
and  playing  through  the  green  distance  is 
the  prime  object  to  be  achieved,  combined  with 
a  fair  measure  of  accuracy.  While  it  is,  of 
course,  desirable  to  be  in  line  with  the  flag  in 
the  long  game,  yet  a  dozen  yards  or  so  either 
way  make  little  appreciable  difference,  as  there 
is  sufficient*  latitude  allowed.  But  when  it 
comes  to  getting  the  green  on  the  next,  more 
careful  calculations  have  to  be  made,  both  in 
respect  to  strength  and  to  accuracy. 

Apart  from  the  tee  shot  any  stroke  that  is 
capable  of  landing  the  ball  on  the  green,  even 
with  a  driver,  brassey,  or  full  cleek,  may  be 
said  to  be  an  approach.  The  ordinary  accep- 
tation of  the  term,  however,  embraces  dis- 
tances from,  say,  forty  or  fifty  to  one  hundred 

42 


APPROACHING 

and  fifty  or  one  hundred  and  sixty  yards 
from  the  hole.  A  fairly  good  player  can 
easily  get  the  latter  distance  with  a  cleek. 
Lesser  ranges  may  be  negotiated  with  a  mid- 
iron  or  mashie.  The  driver  is,  of  course,  the 
most  powerful  club,  followed  in  due  order  by 
the  brassey,  the  cleek,  the  mid-iron,  and  the 
mashie. 

According  to  the  distance  from  the  green 
so  does  the  experienced  player  regulate  the 
stroke  by  the  particular  club  employed.  It 
is  easier  to  play  a  full  mashie  shot,  for  instance, 
than  a  half-iron.  Given  that  the  ball  be  hit 
true,  each  club  has  a  certain  maximum  range, 
and  the  player  should  familiarize  himself  with 
the  full  capabilities  of  his  clubs,  and  govern 
his  approaches  accordingly.  So  far  as  the 
cleek  and  iron  are  concerned,  the  stance  and 
swing  are  practically  the  same  as  in  the  drive, 
excepting  that  it  is  advisable  to  stand  a  little 

The  more  over  the  ball,  and  not  to  take  the 
Mashie  club  so  far  back  in  the  upward  swing. 

Approach   ,TT1  .   .    . 

When  you  come  to  within,  say,  one 
hundred  yards  or  thereabouts  of  the  hole,  the 
mashie  may  be  brought  into  requisition. 

For  a  shot  of  this  distance  the  right  foot 
should  be  advanced  a  trifle  more  than  usual, 
with  the  ball  somewhat  nearer  the  right  foot. 

45 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

Grasp  the  club  firmly,  with  the  sole  at  right 
angles  to  the  line  of  play,  and  play  straight 
for  the  hole.  Make  the  stroke  with  decision. 
Aim  to  hit  the  ball  in  its  centre  with  the  middle 
of  the  face,  and  let  the  club  go  through  and 
slightly  into  the  ground.  Follow  through  as 
in  the  drive.  Do  not  attempt  to  jerk  the  stroke, 
unless  the  ball  be  lying  badly.  Be  very  par- 
ticular not  to  take  any  turf  until  after  the  ball 
is  hit.  The  ball  must  be  hit  clean,  and  the 
club  allowed  to  go  through  into  the  ground 
immediately  after,  and  not  on  any  account 
before,  reaching  the  ball.  Do  not  allow  the 
club  to  trail  along  behind  the  ball  in  the  up- 
ward swing;  rather  make  a  point  of  taking 
it  up  straighter — more  vertically. 

In  the  same  way  that  the  club  is  withdrawn, 
so  is  it  likely  to  come  down  upon  the  ball. 
This  is  a  golfing  truism,  and  such  an  important 
one  that  we  often  lose  sight  of  it  altogether. 
If  the  club  be  swept  along  the  ground,  back 
of  the  ball,  the  chances  are  in  favor  of  a  top, 
unless  it  should  be  lying  very  well.  Irre- 
spective of  the  lie,  it  is  better  to  adhere  to  the 
same  methods  throughout,  and  play  each  shot 
the  same  way — except  in  the  case  of  a  very 
cuppy  lie,  which  will  be  considered  in  its  prop- 
er place. 


APPROACHING 

Within  sixty  to  eighty  yards  of  the  hole 
some  slight  modifications  are  necessary  in  the 
stance  and  the  stroke.  The  right  foot  should 
be  brought  further  forward,  with  the  ball  a  trifle 
nearer  the  left  foot.  The  face  of  the  club  should 
be  inclined  to  the  right,  so  that  it  would  appear 
as  though  the  player  intended  going  several 
yards  to  the  right  of  the  hole.  At  the  same 
time  the  aim  should  be  correspondingly 

w!^  cut  to  the  left  of  the  hole-  In  making  the 
stroke  hit  the  ball  smartly  somewhat 
across,  i.  e.,  draw  the  arms  in  a  trifle,  immedi- 
ately after  the  ball  is  struck  This  combina- 
tion will  produce  a  perfectly  straight  ball,  with 
a  good  deal  of  cut,  which  will  have  a  retarding 
effect  on  its  run.  Precisely  the  same  methods 
are  employed  for  shorter  distances.  The  face 
of  the  club  may  even  JDC  turned  slightly  more 
away  from  the  hole  to  the  right,  with  the  heel 
well  down  to  the  ground.  Hitting  with  the 
heel  of  the  club  meeting  the  ground  after  the 
ball  is  struck  will  cause  the  ball  to  rise  more, 
and,  joined  to  the  spin  imparted  by  drawing 
in  the  arms  and  turning  the  wrists  upward, 
will  produce  a  very  dead  ball  with  hardly  any 
run. 

The  essence  of  the  stroke  consists  in  hitting 
very  sharply,  and  in   turning  the  wrists  up- 
D  49 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

ward  immediately  after  the  ball  is  struck.  The 
club  should  be  grasped  very  firmly,  but  more 
with  the  fingers  than  in  the  palms,  and  the 


FIG.  21  a 
GRIP  FOR   APPROACHING 


stroke  made  very  decisively  with  a  free  use  of 
the  wrists.  In  all  of  these  strokes  the  elbows 
should  be  pretty  well  bent  and  fairly  well 

50 


APPROACHING 

tucked  in  towards  the  body.  For  the  shorter 
strokes,  the  feet  should  not  be  raised  at  all 
from  the  ground,  the  body  being  allowed  to 
turn  from  the  knees  only,  and  principally  from 
the  left  knee.  For  the  longer  shots  the  turn 
of  the  knees  is  more  pronounced,  and  the  left 
foot  shifts  slightly  inward  on  the  side,  tow- 
ards the  toe. 

An  exceedingly  dead  ball  may  also  be  played 
by  standing  well  back,  laying  the  club  almost 
flat,  and  cutting  clear  under  the  ball.  The 
stroke  is  comparatively  easy  if  the  ball  is  ly- 
ing well,  but  not  otherwise.  In  this  stroke 
the  club  head  is  well  in  advance  of  the  hands. 
It  may  be  well  to  remark  here  that  in  all  strokes, 
of  every  description,  a  high  ball  with  com- 
paratively little  run  follows  when  the  club  is  in 
advance  of  the  hands,  and,  inversely,  a  ball 
with  a  lower  trajectory  and  more  compensating 
run  results  when  the  hands  are  in  advance  of 
the  ball.  A  full  recognition  and  practical  ap- 
plication of  this  principle  would  go  a  great 
way  towards  simplifying  the  problem  of  mak- 
ing the  ball  fall  dead  or  of  imparting  addition- 
al run,  as  may  be  desired. 

Going  with  the  wind,  and  playing  a  mashie 
shot  where  it  is  necessary  to  pitch  right  on 
to  the  green,  and  make  the  ball  stay  there,  it 

53 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

is  absolutely  essential  to  put  a  decided  cut  on 
the  ball.  As  already  explained,  this  cut  stroke 
is  made  largely  by  hitting  across  the 
of  wind  ball.  In  addition  to  the  retarding  ef- 
fect on  the  run  produced  by  the  spin 
thus  given,  the  stroke  may  more  easily  be 
accomplished  by  letting  the  club  reach  the 
ball  before  the  hands  are  in  the  same  vertical 
plane.  In  other  words,  stand  with  the  ball 
pretty  well  in  front  of  you. 

Playing  dead  against  the  wind  the  same 
methods  may  be  employed,  but  as  practically 
no  run  at  all  follows,  the  ball  must  be  hit  much 
harder,  and  may  safely  be  played  close  up  to 
or  even  beyond  the  hole.  It  is  perhaps  safer, 
however,  to  play  without  any  decided  cut  under 
such  circumstances,  but  rather  in  the  way 
suggested  for  a  shot  of  eighty  to  one  hundred 
yards,  regulating  the  strength  according  to 
the  distance. 

So  far  I  have  dealt  entirely  with  the  mashie 
in  approaching.  I  do  not  intend  by  this  to 
suggest  that  this  particular  club  only  should 
be  used.  In  point  of  fact,  I  rarely  play  with 
a  mashie  unless  there  is  a  bunker  or  rough 
ground  intervening.  When  the  nature  of 
the  ground  permits,  I  consider  it  safer  and 
easier  to  run  up,  either  with  a  cleek,  iron,  or 

54 


APPROACHING 

putter,  with  more  or  less  cut  according  to  the 
unevenness  of  the  ground.  With  a  straighter- 
faced  club  it  is  much  simpler  to  determine  the 
strength  required,  and  much  easier  to  be  sure 
of  hitting  the  ball  cleanly  than  with  a  more 
lofted  one.  The  more  the  club  is  lofted  or  the 
face  laid  back  the  greater  is  the  accuracy  re- 
quired. The  more  simply  the  approach  shot 
can  be  played  the  better,  as  there  is  greater 
latitude  for  error  than  in  using  any  of  the 
heavily  lofted  clubs. 

In  the  running-up  stroke  it  makes  compara- 
tively little  difference  if  you  should  happen  to 
get  a  little  too  much  down  to  the  ball, 
or  half-top  it,  whereas  with  the  lofted 
approach,  and  with  the  same  measure 
of  strength  applied,  getting  too  much  under 
means  being  away  short,  while  a  topped 
mashie  is  generally  far  over  the  hole.  Then, 
again,  with  the  mashie,  the  ball  may  possibly 
pitch  on  a  hard  and  bare  spot,  or  on  sand,  or 
it  may  strike  some  irregularity  of  surface, 
and  so  completely  upset  the  finest  calcula- 
tions. It  must  also  be  borne  in  mind  that 
while  in  the  air  the  ball  is  more  at  the  mercy 
of  the  wind,  while  if  kept  closer  to  the  ground 
the  wind  exercises  very  much  less  influence. 
At  the  same  time  no  one  can  rank  as  a  first- 
55 


Running 
up 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

class  golfer  who  is  not  a  master  of  the  lofted 
approach  shot  in  all  its  moods  and  tenses. 
There  is  no  department  of  the  game  which 
calls  for  such  a  high  degree  of  skill  and  the 
exercise  of  such  sound  judgment  as  approach- 
ing. Here  strength  and  direction  must  be 
supplemented  with  a  measure  of  delicacy  and 
fine  discrimination  such  as  are  not  called 
for  in  any  other  department  of  the  game, 
unless,  indeed,  we  include  the  approach  putt, 
which  is  really  an  offshoot  of  the  approach 
proper,  and  is  usually  made  under  more  ad- 
vantageous circumstances. 

The  man  who  can  be  reasonably  sure  of  lay- 
ing his  ball,  not  only  on  the  green,  but  within 
comparatively  easy  putting  distance  of  the 
hole  time  and  again,  manifestly  has  a  great 
advantage  over  a  less  skilful  player,  every- 
thing else  being  about  even.  A  single  putt 
saved  here  and  there  is  a  material  gain.  The  ob- 
ject of  the  game  is  to  get  the  ball  into  a  very 
small  hole  in  the  fewest  possible  number  of 
A  Well_  strokes.  To  do  this,  on  a  first-class 
rounded  course,  it  is  of  course  essential  that  the 
successful  golfer  should  play  a  well- 
rounded  game.  He  must  drive  well,  approach 
well,  and  putt  well.  He  can  never  hope  to 
occupy  the  premier  position  if  he  is  weak  in 

56 


A  P  P  R  O  A  CHIN G 

any  one  of  the  three  departments.  Extraor- 
dinarily long  driving,  for  instance,  does  not 
compensate  for  poor  approaching  or  poor  put- 
ting. It  is  much  better  to  be  an  adept  at  put- 
ting than  at  driving.  If  a  man  drives  fairly 
well,  say  from  one  hundred  and  seventy  to 
one  hundred  and  ninety  yards,  and  approaches 
and  putts  with  consistent  accuracy,  he  is  much 
better  off  than  the  player  who  gets  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty  to  two  hundred  yards  from 
the  tee,  and  then  shows  weakness  in  approach- 
ing or  putting.  The  good  approacher,  pro- 
vided he  putts  fairly  well,  saves  many  a  stroke 
by  laying  his  ball  so  close  to  the  hole  that  he 
goes  down  in  one  on  the  next,  when  the  other 
player  takes  two — and  sometimes  more. 

The  method  of  approaching  so  far  treated 
is  what  is  commonly  known  as  the  bent-arm 
stroke — that  is  to  say,  the  arms  are  not  kept 
taut  or  stiff,  but  are  allowed  to  bend  at  the 
elbows,  and  to  turn  more  or  less  from  the  wrists. 
At  the  same  time  the  club  is  grasped  firmly 
with  both  hands.  If  anything,  the  right  hand 
and  arm  contribute  a  shade  more  power  than 
the  left.  The  stroke  partakes  more  of  the 
character  of  a  hit  than  a  swing,  as  exemplified 
in  the  drive — a  sharp,  snappy  hit,  entirely  free, 
however,  from  jerk. 

59 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

There  is  another  way  of  making  approach 
shots    which    is    very   effective.     In    this    the 
arms  are  kept  stiff,  and  the  wrists  are 
Sg°^tdser  scarcely  turned  at  all.     There  is  more 
of  a  swing  than  a  hit  in  the  stroke, 
and  the  shoulders  are  brought  more  or  less 
into  play.     The  ball  may  be  kept  on  a  very 
true  line  by  this  method,  but  it  will  have  a 
lower  trajectory  and  greater  run.     It  is  useful 
on  a  windy  day,  or  when  the  nature  of  the 
ground    admits    more    of  a  running  -  up  ap- 
proach.    For  all-round  purposes,  however,  it 
does  not  possess  the  full  share  of  merits  of  the 
other  style  already  dealt  with. 

It   is   comparatively   easy   to   play   an   ap- 
proach shot  from  a  good  lie,  as  then  one  may 
give  the  larger  share  of  his  attention  to 
0nL£°°r  the  necessary  strength,  being  reason- 
ably sure  of  hitting  the  ball  clean.     It 
frequently  happens,  however,  that  the  ball  may 
be  lying  badly,  and  greater  nicety  is  then  re- 
quired to  get  it  away.      Let  us  take  a  ball 
lying  in  a  cup  with  a  tuft  of  grass  behind— 
the  ordinary  type  of  poor   lie,  or  even  in  a 
wagon  rut — and  with  a  bunker,  say  forty  or 
fifty  yards  away,   guarding  the  green.     The 
stiff  -  arm   stroke   here  is   useless.     Even  the 
other  style  mentioned  has  to  be  slightly  modi- 

60 


APPROACHING 

fied.  Grasp  the  club  very  firmly  in  both 
hands,  stand  with  the  feet  farther  apart  than 
usual,  with  the  ball  nearer  to  the  right  foot; 
take  the  club  up  straighter,  more  perpendic- 
ularly, and  bring  it  down  sharply  into  the 
ground  straight  behind  the  ball.  The  sole  of 
the  club  will  have  to  cleave  the  ground  a  trifle 
before  the  face  reaches  the  ball  in  order  to  get 
it  up  properly,  and  it  will  then  go  through  into 
the  ground  immediately  underneath  the  spot 
where  the  ball  was  lying.  Don't  try  to  get 
the  ball  up;  the  lofted  face  of  the  club  will 
do  that;  rather  go  to  the  other  extreme,  and 
make  up  your  mind  you  are  going  to  drive  it 
into  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  It  is  astonishing 
how  far  a  ball  can  be  shot  out  of  what  looks 
like  an  impossible  lie  by  these  means.  The 
great  thing  to  remember  is  that  the  club  will 
do  the  work  if  you  give  it  a  fair  chance.  Don't 
turn  the  face  in,  and  don't  take  your  eye  off 
the  point  of  aim  just  behind  the  ball,  until  the 
club  has  sunk  well  into  the  ground ;  and  don't 
be  afraid  to  hit  on  account  of  the  slight  jar 
to  the  wrists  which  follows  the  impact. 

When  the  club  has  gone  well  into  the  ground, 
giving  it  plenty  of  time,  then  you  may  flex 
the  wrists  slightly,  to  lessen  the  shock  and 
direct  the  passage  of  the  club  towards  the  hole 

61 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

and  further  assist  in  getting  the  ball  up.  Of 
course  the  execution  of  a  stroke  of  this  kind 
will  dig  up  a  blanket  of  turf,  and  will  carry 
with  it  the  unpleasant  suggestion  that  you 
must  inevitably  smash  the  shaft  of  the  club 
into  flinders.  But  if  you  have  faith  in  the 
resiliency  of  hickory  it  will  be  of  material  aid 
in  executing  the  stroke  properly,  and  your 
shaft,  if  a  good  one,  will  be  none  the  worse. 
One  more  piece  of  counsel — take  as  little  turf 
as  possible  before  striking  the  ball  itself. 


PUTTING 

ASSUMING  that  the  approach  stroke  has 
been  properly  executed,  the  ball  should  now  be 
on  the  green,  not  so  far  from  the  hole  as  to 
render  it  at  all  uncertain  about  going  down  in 
two  more — and  very  frequently  in  one.  But 
alas  for  human  frailty !  It  is  quite  possible  even 
with  the  best  players  chat  the  ball  is  occasion- 
ally either  short  of  or  possibly  over  the  green 
proper,  with  some  indifferently  rough  ground 
to  be  negotiated  before  the  putter  may  or- 
dinarily be  used  with  safety  or  precision. 
Where  the  intervening  space  is  covered  with 
fairly  long  grass  a  mashie  or  an  iron  is  really 
necessary,  but  if  there  should  be  no  long  grass 

The  other  than  the  ordinary  fair  green,  free 
Approach  from  any  bunkers,  a  running-up  ap- 
proach may  safely  be  played  with  the 
putter.  It  is  imperative,  however,  to  bear  in 
mind  that  the  stroke  should  be  different  in 

63 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

kind  from  the  ordinary  putt.  You  should  aim 
to  hit  the  ball  as  if  it  were  your  intention  to 
drive  it  into  the  ground;  stand  rather  more 
than  usual  in  front,  and  strike  the  ball  with 
the  face  of  the  club  slightly  turned  in.  This 
will  cause  the  ball  to  jump,  due  to  its  contact 
with  the  ground  immediately  after  being  struck, 
but  it  will  keep  a  wonderfully  straight  line,  de- 
spite irregularities  of  surface,  and  will  usually 
be  found  nearer  the  hole  than  if  a  more  lofted 
club  were  used.  A  stroke  of  this  kind  may 
be  played  even  fifty  or  sixty  yards  from  the 
hole,  and  with  far  more  certainty  of  result 
than  if  a  mashie  had  been  used.  With  the 
ordinary  putter,  more  or  less  straight-faced, 
it  is  much  easier  to  hit  the  ball  truly  and  to 
regulate  the  desired  strength  than  with  any 
of  its  more  lofted  brethren.  Nor  does  it  make 
so  much  difference  if  the  ball  be  lying  badly, 
since  you  do  not  desire  to  get  it  up.  With  a 
comparatively  straight-faced  club  it  matters 
very  little,  in  a  stroke  of  this  kind,  whether 
the  ball  is  struck  above  or  below  the  centre 
of  the  club,  but  it  makes  a  world  of  difference 
if  such  liberties  are  taken  with  a  mashie,  the 
greater  angle  of  the  face  of  the  latter  not  al- 
lowing such  a  wide  margin  for  error. 

Another  way  of  playing  the  stroke,  in  simi- 


PUTTING 

lar  circumstances,  is  to  stand  with  the  ball 
well  in  front  of  you — still  using  the  putter — 
the  club  head  rather  in  advance  of  the  hands 
and  the  face  slightly  turned  outward,  to  the 
right,  and  put  cut  on  the  ball  by  drawing 
the  arms  in  a  trifle  just  at  the  moment  of  strik- 
ing. This  will  cause  the  ball  to  rise  slightly 
immediately  after  being  struck.  Such  a  stroke 
is  useful  where  some  roughish  ground  has  to 
be  traversed  just  in  front  of  the  ball,  or  when 
it  happens  to  be  either  teed  up  or  lying  in  short, 
soft  grass. 

The  simpler  the  means  employed  to  get  the 
ball  into  the  hole  the  better.  It  is  much  easier, 
and  less  fraught  with  danger  or  risk  of  failure, 
to  run  a  ball  up  than  to  pitch  it.  If  pitching 
were  easier,  why  not  putt  with  a  mashie? 
Never  use  a  mashie  or  any  heavily  lofted  iron 
-when  the  necessity  for  pitching  does  not  really 
exist.  It  requires  a  certain  fine  discrimina- 
tion, however,  to  know,  the  moment  you  get 
up  to  your  ball,  just  what  kind  of  a  stroke 
should  be  played,  and  the  proper  club  to  play  it 

with.     Don't  allow  yourself  to  get  into 
He«itat«  the  way  of  hesitating  or  questioning 

whether  you  should  take  a  mashie  or 
an  iron  or  a  putter.     Make  up  your  mind  at 
once,  and  stick  to  it.     Another  thing  is  worth 
E  65 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

remembering  in  connection  with  the  short 
game,  and  that  is  not  to  allow  yourself  to 
dwell  upon  the  strength  of  the  next  stroke 
while  walking  up  to  your  ball.  Wait  until 
you  get  to  it  before  making  any  calculations 
of  this  kind.  And  let  me  again  and  again 
urge  you  not  to  be  in  any  hurry  to  look  up 
after  you  have  made  the  stroke.  To  my  mind 
there  are  two  rocks  upon  which  the  large  ma- 
jority of  players  split,  two  things  we  all  do, 
more  or  less,  and  which  are  provocative  of 
poorly  executed  strokes:  one  is  looking  up 
too  soon,  especially  in  the  short  game,  and 
the  other  hitting  too  soon,  particularly  in  the 
long  game. 

Now  that  we  have  managed,  more  or  less 

successfully,  to  get  on  the  green,  the  serious 

business  of   getting   the  ball  into  the 

ti^Baii  h°le  *n  one  or  tw°  smokes  presents  it- 
self. And  mighty  serious  business  it 
is  too.  Putting,  that  is  consistently  good  put- 
ting, is  perhaps  the  most  difficult  part  of  the 
game,  with  the  possible  exception  of  really 
first-class  approach  work.  Driving  is  largely 
mechanical,  the  one  essential  being  to  keep 
fairly  straight.  In  that  department  of  the 
game  you  are  never  troubled  about  going  too 
far,  or  if  any  possible  doubt  exists  on  this 

66 


PUTTING 

score  you  may  easily  remove  it  by  using  a 
weaker  club.  The  approach  is  somewhat  more 
complex,  for  here  accuracy  and  strength  are 
the  elements.  Even  this  part  may  be  largely 
simplified  by  using  a  cleek,  iron,  mashie,  or 
putter,  each  having  a  certain  fairly  well- 
defined  capacity  in  respect  to  distance. 

But  putting  calls  for  the  highest  degree  of 
skill  and  the  nicest  kind  of  judgment  both  as 
regards  accuracy  and  strength.  By  accuracy 
is  meant  the  passage  of  the  ball  over  an  im- 
aginary line  between  it  and  the  hole.  You 
may  possibly  be  able  to  keep  your  ball  along 
this  line,  but  if  it  is  hit  too  hard  it  will  probably 
jump  the  cup,  while  if  the  necessary  strength 
is  lacking  it  certainly  cannot  go  in.  It  all 
seems  easy  enough,  especially  to  the  man  who 
has  never  tried  it,  and  who  is  not  saddled  with 
recollections  of  innumerable  misses  in  the  past, 
sins  of  commission  and  of  omission.  Which 
leads  me  to  remark  that  one  of  the  prime  req- 
uisites to  good  putting  is  an  abounding  con- 
fidence in  one's  ability  to  lay  the  ball  dead 
when  several  yards  away,  or  positively  run  it 
down  when  within  reasonable  holing-out  dis- 
tance. 

Let  us  examine  into  the  character  of  the 
stroke  in  reference  to  accuracy  more  particular- 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

ly,  dismissing,  for  the  time  being,  the  question 

of  strength.     If  one  can  succeed  in  getting  the 

Accuracy  kail  *o  run  true,  more  than  half  of  the 

»n       terrors   of  putting   are   gotten    rid   of 

at  the  outset,  and  the  mind  may  then 

be  concentrated  on  the   important   matter  of 

strength. 

In  respect  to  accuracy,  it  is  imperative  that 
you  should  act  upon  some  well-defined  prin- 
ciples. Proceed  first  by  taking  a  glance 
back  of  the  ball  towards  the  hole,  and  trace 
the  line  over  which  it  must  pass,  noting  for 
subsequent  guidance  a  particular  blade  of 
grass  on  this  imaginary  line.  Take  your 
stance  and  square  the  face  of  the  putter  at 
perfect  right  angles  to  the  blade  of  grass  you 
have  picked  out  by  resting  it  immediately  in 
front  of  the  ball.  By  resting  the  club  in  this 
way  in  front  of  the  ball  it  is  easier  to  get  the 
correct  base-line,  and,  furthermore,  it  assists 
in  going  through  the  ball  properly  when  the 
stroke  is  made. 

Now  withdraw  the  club  and  let  it  rest  gently 
on  the  turf  close  up  behind  the  ball,  taking 
care  to  preserve  the  correct  angle.  Let  the 
eye  run  quickly  over  the  imaginary  line  to 
the  hole,  so  as  to  determine  the  requisite  force 
to  be  applied,  and  then  make  the  stroke. 

68 


PUTTING 

If  the  club  presents  a  perfect  right  angle 
in  reference  to  the  line  of  play  during  the 
period  of  contact  with  the  ball,  and  no  irreg- 
ularities of  surface  or  obstructions  interfere, 
the  ball  will  almost  certainly  run  straight, 
and  assuming  that  the  right  amount  of  strength 
has  been  employed  it  will  stand  a  much  better 
chance  of  rinding  the  hole  than  if  the  player 
simply  trusted  to  luck,  and  with  each  new  putt 
changed  his  method  according  to  the  whim  of 
the  moment. 

The  matter  of  stance  is  of  some  importance. 

It  may  be  said  that  there  are  three  ways  of 

standing  in  relation  to  the  ball  and  the 

sun'ce  line  of  Plav :  off  the  left  leg— that  is, 
with  the  weight  resting  mainly  on  the 
left  and  with  the  ball  nearer  to  that  foot ;  off 
the  right  leg — the  reverse  of  the  previous  po- 
sition; and  standing  square  —  i.e.,  with  the 
ball  about  midway  between  the  feet.  The 
player  must  discover  by  practice  which  style 
is  productive  of  the  best  general  results,  and 
having  done  so,  it  is  advisable  to  adhere  to  it. 
At  the  same  time,  when  the  ball  persistently 
refuses  to  be  holed  it  is  rather  a  good  plan  to 
switch  off  and  adopt  one  of  the  alternative 
positions  mentioned.  A  change  of  this  kind 
is  often  beneficial. 

7i 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

The  accompanying   picture   illustrates    the 
grip  affected  by  the  writer.     It  is  not  contended 

Regard-   tnat  ^s  *s  in  any  wav  better  than  the 

ing  the    orthodox  grip  for  the  general  run  of 

players,    but    exhaustive    tests  —  and 

under   fire  —  have   demonstrated   conclusively 

that   it   serves    its    purpose   somewhat  better 


FIG.  28 
PUTTING   GRIP 


than  does  the  prevailing  style.  It  will  be  ob- 
served that  both  thumbs  are  laid  down  the 
shaft,  and  that  the  index-finger  of  the  right 

72 


PUTT  IN  G 

hand  touches  it  also  at  the  tip,  towards  the 
back  of  the  shaft.  Grasping  the  club  in  this 
way,  and  with  the  fingers,  one  seems  to  feel  it 
better  and  to  be  able  more  accurately  to  de- 
termine the  proper  degree  of  strength  to  be 
applied  to  the  stroke.  Then,  too,  it  lessens 
one's  innate  tendency  to  pull  the  ball,  a  ten- 
dency which  the  orthodox  grip  rather  encour- 
ages. Close  observation  of  all  missed  putts 
discloses  the  interesting  fact  that  by  far  the 
large  majority  go  to  the  left  of  the  hole, 
thereby  indicating  the  presence  of  a  pull,  due 
to  the  arms  being  slightly  drawn  in  just  after 
striking,  instead  of  following  through  on  the 
line  to  the  hole.  Throwing  the  burden  of  the 
work  on  the  right  forefinger  seems  to  counter- 
act any  such  fault,  and  not  only  is  the  club 
guided  better,  but  greater  delicacy  of  touch 
is  apparent,  and,  consequently,  the  matter  of 
strength  is  better  controlled  and  regulated. 

It  will  be  found,  generally  speaking,  that 
better  results  follow  by  gripping  the  club 
pretty  firmly,  with  the  fingers — firmly  but  not 
tightly.  A  very  tight  grip  is  usually  at  the 
sacrifice  of  delicacy.  A  firm  grip  insures 
the  ball  keeping  its  line  more  accurately  and 
not  being  deflected  by  irregularities  of  any 
kind.  The  rougher  the  green  the  more  is 

73 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

this  essential.  The  hands  should  be  kept  as 
close  together  as  possible,  the  grip  of  the  right 
rather  predominating. 

The  club  should  be  taken  away  from  and 

brought  back  to  and  follow  through  the  ball 

with  a  smooth,   even   movement,  free 

Ball.  from  any  jerk.  A  choppy  kind  of 
Don't  hit  stroke,  a  tap,  or  a  hit  is  not  recom- 
mended. Putts  may,  of  course,  be  holed 
by  each  and  all  of  these  methods,  but  not,  I 
think,  with  the  same  degree  of  consistency. 
Endeavor  to  take  the  club  back  and  let  it  fol- 
low after  the  ball  on  the  correct  line  of  the 
putt.  Aim  to  strike  the  ball  exactly  in  the 
centre,  and  don't  be  in  any  hurry  to  look  up 
after  the  stroke.  As  a  general  thing,  the 
centre  of  the  club  is  the  best  part  to  strike 
with,  but  a  great  deal  of  course  depends 
upon  the  balance.  With  certain  clubs  better 
results  are  obtained  by  striking  somewhat  off 
the  toe. 

In  addressing  the  ball  do  not  allow  the 
club  to  weigh  heavily  on  the  turf;  rather  let 
the  touch  be  very  delicate.  Whatever  the 
distance  may  be,  always  go  for  the  hole;  in 
other  words,  be  up.  In  this  way  a  certain  pro- 
portion of  long  putts  will  be  brought  off.  Aim 
to  be  just  a  shade  over  the  hole,  but  not  so  far 

74 


PUTTING 

beyond  as  to  make  at  all  uncertain  the  holing 
out  of  the  next,  in  case  of  missing. 

Endeavor  to  make  every  stroke  with  con- 
fidence   and    decision.     Lack     of     confidence 

Necessity  Soes  a  great  waY  towards  inviting  a 
ofconfi-  miss.  Don't  unduly  hang  over  the 
ball,  and  don't  be  too  keen  to  note 
any  fancied  irregularities  of  surface  between 
it  and  the  hole.  In  respect  to  both  the  cor- 
rect line  and  the  necessary  strength,  be  gov- 
erned by  your  first  impressions,  and  let  the 
muscles  act  upon  the  information  so  conveyed 
without  further  ado.  You  may  occasionally 
go  wrong,  but  the  general  results  will  approve 
the  wisdom  of  such  procedure. 


VI 

PUTTING— Continued 

IN  putting,  it  is  of  prime  importance  that 
the  body  should  be  kept  immovable,  the  hands, 
wrists,  arms,  and,  to  a  certain  extent,  the 
shoulders  only  entering  into  the  stroke.  If 
the  body  be  allowed  to  participate  in  the  work 
an  element  is  introduced  that  only  complicates 
the  situation,  and  makes  this  part  of  the  game 
altogether  uncertain.  It  is  difficult  enough, 
in  all  conscience,  to  control  the  strength  of 
the  stroke  by  simply  using  the  other  members ; 
add  the  weight  of  the  body,  however  little, 
and  you  will  get  such  additional  run  on  the 
ball  as  will  carry  it  away  over  the  hole  and 
prove  utterly  demoralizing  to  the  player. 
Neither  should  the  wrists  alone  play  any  undue 
part.  The  less  they  are  employed  the  better, 
for  uniformity.  They  should  act  in  perfect 
harmony  with  the  other  factors,  the  whole  so 
blending  and  merging  into  each  other  as  to 

76 


PUTTING 

produce  a  rhythmical  unison,  and  leave  the 
player  wholly  unconscious  of  any  particular 
element  being  present.  There  should  be  more 
or  less  of  an  air  of  stiffness  about  the  stroke, 
free,  however,  from  any  rigidity  born  of  taut- 
ened muscles. 

The  head,  of  course,  must  be  kept  absolutely 
still.     At  the  moment  of  striking,  the  eyes — 
particularly   the    left  —  should  be  in- 
tently  fastened,  not  only  on  the  ball, 
on  the    but  on  the  dead  centre  of  the  ball  tow- 

Ball 

ards  the  back,  where  you  intend  hitting 
it.  It  has  been  suggested  that  the  left  eye 
more  especially  should  be  directed  at  the  ball. 
This  will  involve  a  slight  turn  of  the  head 
away  from  the  hole.  In  this  attitude  less 
encouragement  is  given  to  pull  the  ball — 
and,  as  I  have  previously  remarked,  this 
matter  of  pulling  is  one  of  the  greatest  of 
all  putting  sins.  As  a  further  aid,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  get  both  elbows  in  line,  parallel  with 
the  line  of  the  putt.  This  will  necessitate 
the  turning  of  the  left  elbow  away  from  the 
body,  the  right  being  somewhat  tucked  in 
towards  the  thigh,  but  not  being  allowed  to 
rest  on  it.  By  letting  the  club  swing  in  the 
manner  described  it  will  be  noticed  that  it 
meets  and  goes  through  the  ball  with  the  face 

77 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

at  a  perfect  right  angle  with  reference  to  the 
line  to  the  hole,  and  that  is  the  whole  essence 
of  good  putting.  There  is  no  mystery  at  all 
about  it.  The  laws  of  motion  are  unchange- 
able, and  given  that  the  ball  be  hit  truly  on 
scientific  principles,  such  as  I  have  endeav- 
ored to  outline,  it  will  assuredly  run  straight 
on  a  smooth  and  true  green,  and  be  far  more 
liable  to  keep  a  straight  line  on  an  indifferent 
one  than  if  hit  "in  any  old  way." 

In  respect  to  the  proper  degree  of  strength 

to  be  applied,  this  is  largely  governed  not  only 

by  the  weight  but  also  by  the  lie  of 

Strength    the      club«          Wlth      *      heaVY     club      leSS 

force  is  necessary  to  make  the  ball 
travel  a  given  distance  than  with  a  lighter 
one.  So  it  is  with  a  straight  -  faced  putter 
as  against  one  a  trifle  lofted  or  laid  back. 
The  more  it  is  laid  back  the  greater  is  the 
undercut  or  backward  spin,  and  the  harder 
must  the  ball  be  struck.  Such  a  club  is 
very  useful  on  a  keen  green,  as  there  is  less 
liability  of  over -running  the  hole.  Then, 
too,  the  shaft  plays  a  very  important  part. 
With  one  possessing  an  undue  amount  of  spring 
it  is  very  difficult  to  gauge  the  correct  amount 
of  strength  necessary.  It  is  better  to  err  on 
the  right  side  and  play  with  a  very  stiff  shaft. 

78 


PUTTING 

Probably  the  best  all-round  weapon  is  a 
putting-cleek  of  medium  weight,  and  not  too 
much  lofted. 

I  am  not  an  advocate  of  wooden  putters. 
Off  wood  the  ball  is  endued  with  much  greater 
wooden  runnmg  power  than  off  iron,  and  there- 
and  other  fore  the  stroke  calls  for  greater  exer- 
cise of  delicacy.  Moreover,  the  ball 
does  not  appear  to  hug  the  ground  so  closely, 
and  is  consequently  more  apt  to  jump  the 
hole.  These  very  qualities,  however,  make  the 
wooden  putter  rather  desirable  for  running-up 
approaches.  Nevertheless,  I  believe  the  ordi- 
nary putter  to  be,  on  the  whole,  the  more  trust- 
worthy for  such  strokes. 

A  little  experimenting  and  practice  with 
different  kinds  of  putters  will  shortly  satisfy 
the  player  which  particular  one  is  best  suited 
to  him,  day  in  and  day  out,  and  when  this 
discovery  is  made,  stick  to  it.  You  may, 
however,  have  a  fancy  for  another  with  which 
you  are  perfectly  deadly  at  times,  but  hardly 
feel  like  pinning  absolute  faith  to  it  on  all 
occasions.  In  an  important  match  it  is  not  a 
bad  plan  to  stick  it  in  your  bag,  and  if  you 
happen  to  have  a  poor  putting  streak  on  don't 
hesitate  to  try  a  change.  Putting  is  largely 
mental,  anyway,  and  humoring  one's  self  in 

79 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

this  department  of  the  game  often  produces 
the  desired  results.  On  certain  greens  the 
ordinary  putter  works  admirably.  More  es- 
pecially on  those  which  are  very  true.  If 
at  all  rough  the  putting-cleek  will  probably 
prove  the  more  serviceable.  In  the  hands 
of  a  finished  player,  however,  it  makes  com- 
paratively little  difference  which  he  uses. 
A  good  player  must  be  highly  adaptable; 
quick  to  recognize  exactly  the  kind  of  stroke 
required,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  sur- 
roundings, and  so  "make  the  punishment 
fit  the  crime/ '  Such  a  player  will  not  hesitate 
to  take  his  putter  when  the  ball  is  a  yard  or 
so  off  the  edge  of  the  green,  but  he  will  modif}^ 
the  stroke  slightly  by  altering  his  stance, 
playing  with  the  ball  well  forward,  almost 
opposite  the  left  toe,  and  with  the  club  head 
in  advance  of  the  hands.  This  will  cause 
the  ball  to  be  slightly  lofted,  barely  sufficient 
to  skim  over  the  intervening  rough  part,  and 
to  have  a  free  run  up  to  the  hole.  The  same 
results  may  more  easily  be  attained  with 
a  putting-cleek,  owing  to  the  face  being  more 
laid  back,  by  standing  with  the  ball  just  a 
little  more  forward  than  usual.  Or,  if  pre- 
ferred, an  iron  may  safely  be  used.  It  largely 
depends  upon  the  nature  of  the  ground,  -and 

80 


•>— — :n    ' 

tn-1:  VK; 


* 


PUTTING 

no  hard  and  fast  rule  can  be  laid  down  to  govern 
such  cases. 

Before  concluding  this  chapter  it  is  proper 
to  say  a  few  words  concerning  stymies,  which, 
justly  so  or  not,  form  a  recognized 
stymies  part  of  the  game.  Nearly  every  de- 
gree of  stymie  is  capable  of  being 
negotiated,  by  (A)  curling  your  ball  around 
the  opposing  one,  (B)  lofting  over  it,  or  (C) 
putting  a  follow  -  through  on  your  ball  and 
striking  your  opponent's,  causing  the  latter 
to  jump  clean  over  the  hole  and  yours  to  go 
in.  Everything  depends  upon  the  position  of 
the  balls  in  reference  to  the  hole  as  to  the 
means  employed  to  make  the  stroke  success- 
fully, joined  also  to  the  undulating  or  other 
characteristics  of  the  green.  Occasionally  the 
undulations  of  the  ground  offer  assistance. 
Putting  such  aside,  however,  and  taking  a 
flat  green,  with  the  opponent's  ball  a  trifle 
to  the  right  of  the  line  to  the  hole,  it  is  possible, 
by  turning  the  face  of  the  putter  a  good  deal 
to  the  right  and  hitting  towards  the  heel,  at  the 
same  time  drawing  it  sharply  across,  to  so 
slice  the  ball  as  to  make  it  describe  the  neces- 
sary curve.  Care  must  be  taken,  however,  to 
aim  to  the  left  of  the  other  ball.  Sometimes  the 
balls  are  so  situated  as  to  make  it  desirable  to 

83 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

curl  around  the  opposite  way,  from  right  to  left. 
The  method  of  procedure  in  such  case  is  ex- 
actly the  reverse  of  the  foregoing  one.  Let 
the  ball  be  nearer  the  right  foot,  turn  the  face 
of  the  club  in  so  as  to  face  well  to  the  left  of 
the  hole,  and  hit  the  ball  more  off  the  toe, 
commencing  the  stroke  inward  and  finishing 
outward,  across  the  ball,  aiming  at  the  same 
time  to  the  right  of  the  other  ball.  The  spin 
given  to  the  ball  will  cause  it  to  curl  in  from 
right  to  left.  It  is  imperative  in  both  cases 
that  the  ball  should  be  struck  with  decision 
and  not  in  a  half-hearted,  timorous  fashion. 
For  that  matter,  by-the-way,  this  applies  to 
all  strokes.  It  frequently  happens  that  the 
balls  are  so  lying  as  to  make  it  practically 
impossible  to  effect  either  of  the  strokes  men- 
tioned. In  such  case  there  is  no  alternative 
but  to  loft  your  ball  over  the  other  with  a 
mashie.  To  do  this  you  must  hit  the  ball  very 
clean,  without  a  suggestion  of  sclaff  or  top. 
It  is  done  almost  entirely  with  the  wrists,  rather 
snappily,  and  with  a  slight  upward  turn  just 
at  the  moment  of  impact.  The  eye  must  be 
kept  fastened  on  the  ball.  Looking  up  a 
fraction  of  a  second  too  soon  is  fatal.  The 
stroke  may  the  more  easily  be  accomplished 
by  playing  the  ball  well  off  the  left  leg,  rather 


PUTTING 

more  in  advance  than  usual.  The  head  of 
the  club  will  thus  lie  flatter  and  will  assist  in 
getting  the  ball  up  more  quickly,  with  little 
run  after  alighting.  Whether  you  play  to 
pitch  the  ball  right  into  the  hole  or  short  of  it 
depends  of  course  upon  their  relative  positions. 
Confidence  may  be  said  to  be  a  prerequisite 
in  bringing  the  shot  off  successfully.  Much, 
too,  depends  upon  whether  you  are  playing 
for  the  hole  or  a  half.  Sometimes  the  shot  is 
of  such  a  hazardous  nature  that  it  is  better 
to  play  safe  and  accept  a  half  rather  than  run 
any  undue  risk  of  losing  the  hole  by  knocking 
your  opponent's  ball  in.  But  if  you  are  play- 
ing for  a  half  you  have  got  to  take  the  bull 
by  the  horns  and  risk  it. 

Occasionally  you  will  be  confronted  with  an 
absolutely  dead  stymie  by  having  your  oppo- 
nent's ball  just  on  the  edge  of  the  cup,  your  own 
being  so  close,  say  seven  inches  to  a  foot  away, 
that  it  is  impossible  to  negotiate  the  stroke  by 
either  curling  around  or  lofting.  In  such 
extremity  there  is  only  one  way  of  getting 
your  ball  in  the  hole  unaccompanied  by  your 
opponent's,  and  that  is  by  what  is  technically 
known  in  billiards  as  the  follow  shot.  Hit 
your  ball  towards  the  top,  just  above  the  centre, 
and  aim  directly  at  the  other  ball.  Strike 

85 


PR  A  C  T  I C  A  L       GOLF 

with  sufficient  force  to  go  at  least  twice  as  far 
as  you  would  ordinarily  wish  to.  This  addi- 
tional strength  is  necessary  to  cause  your 
opponent's  ball  to  jump  the  hole  upon  being 
struck,  your  own  meanwhile  dropping  into 
the  hole.  It  is  surprising  how  frequently  this 
will  happen  when  the  stroke  is  executed  prop- 
erly. At  all  events  it  is  worth  trying  in  an 
emergency,  especially  when  you  have  only 
one  for  a  half. 


VII 

PLAYING    OUT    OF    HAZARDS 

ON  all  first -class  courses  the  bunkers  or 
hazards  are  so  arranged  as  to  impose  a  penal- 
ty on  a  poorly  played  stroke.  Outside  of  long 
grass  these  are  ordinarily  of  artificial  produc- 
tion and  take  the  form  of  cop-bunkers  or  shallow 
pots  of  varying  sizes  filled  with  sand.  It  is 
much  easier  to  get  into  them  than  it  is  to  get 
out  of  them — usually.  Yet  it  should  not  cost 
more  than  one  stroke  to  get  the  ball  out,  if 
properly  played.  Let  us  take  the  case  of  a  ball 
lying  in  sand  with  the  cop  or  face  of  the  bunker 
a  yard  or  so  away  and  several  times  as  high. 
It  is  obvious  that  the  essential  part  of  the 
stroke  is  to  get  the  ball  to  rise  quickly  in  order 
to  clear  the  obstacle.  This  cannot  pos- 
sibly  be  accomplished  with  the  ordinary 
i-  stroke.  In  the  first  place  the  club  itself 

ties 

must  not  come  in  contact  with  the  ball 
at  all  when  it  is  desired  to  make  the  latter  rise 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

almost  perpendicularly.  The  character  of  the 
stroke  must  also  be  radically  altered.  The  club 
should  be  taken  up  as  straight  as  possible— 
up,  not  away  from  the  ball — and  it  should  be 
brought  straight  down  again  on  the  same  line. 
The  aim  should  be  back  of  the  ball  an  inch  or 
so,  depending  entirely  upon  the  height  and 
proximity  of  the  bunker  to  be  surmounted. 
The  stroke  is  no  longer  a  swing,  but  a  genuine 
hit,  delivered  with  all  the  force  at  command. 
For  this  purpose  the  club  should  be  gripped 
very  firmly.  It  is  the  kind  of  a  blow  that  you 
would  give  a  snake,  for  instance — no  love  tap, 
but  full  of  concentrated  energy,  even  to  the 
point  of  vindictiveness — straight  down,  with- 
out any  thought  of  any  jar  to  the  wrists  result- 
ing. This  is  substantially  the  sort  of  stroke 
necessary.  In  practice  no  jar  or  shock  to  the 
wrists  will  follow — the  yielding  nature  of  the 
sand  will  avert  all  possibility  of  anything  of 
the  kind.  Firmness  and  determination  are 
absolutely  essential  in  playing  bunker  shots. 

We  are  dealing  now  with  the  ball  not  teed 
up  or  lying  merely  on  the  surface  of  the  sand, 
but  with  the  ordinary,  every-day  lie  met  with 
— and  bad  enough  it  usually  is.  "Desperate 
diseases  require  desperate  remedies, "  and  lies 
of  this  sort  call  for  strokes  of  a  special  nature. 

88 


PLAYING     OUT    OF    HAZARDS 

To  assist  in  getting  the  club  up  more  ver- 
tically a  rather  wider  stance  than  usual  should 
be  taken.  The  greater  the  initial  loft  desired 
the  more  should  the  aim  be  farther  back  of 
the  ball,  allowing  the  head  of  the  club  to  sink 
down  into  the  sand.  Do  not  attempt  to  aid  the 
club  in  getting  the  ball  up.  The  impact  be- 
hind the  ball,  joined  to  the  lofted  face  of  the 
club,  will  do  the  work  without  any  extraneous 
effort  on  your  part.  Undoubtedly  the  best 
club  to  use  is  the  niblick,  by  reason  of  its  small 
head,  lofted  face,  and  greater  weight.  Very 
many  good  players,  however,  use  a  mashie, 
which,  in  their  hands,  answers  the  purpose 
almost  as  well. 

On  several  courses  bunkers  will  be  found 
with  high,  steep  faces  or  cops.  When  the 
ball  is  lying  directly  at  the  foot  or  very  close 
up  to  one  of  these  (unless  practically  teed  up) 
it  will  be  almost  impossible  to  play  it  out 
straight.  In  such  circumstances  it  is  advisable 
to  face  around  to  the  left  and  play  at  an  angle, 
so  as  to  allow  a  greater  margin  of  clearance 
in  the  upward  flight.  Sometimes,  however, 
this  is  inexpedient,  when  the  ball  is  towards  the 
left  of  the  bunker,  and  getting  it  out  would 
land  it  in  rough  grass  or  bad  ground. 

If  it  is  impossible  to  play  to  the  right  owing 
91 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

to  close  proximity  to  the  face,  it  is  then  better 
to  play  back.  Each  and  every  shot  in  golf 
should  be  played  with  especial  reference  to  the 
following  one.  If  you  are  bunkered  close  up 
to  the  green,  then  endeavor  to  pitch  over.  If, 
however,  the  green  is  some  distance  away  and 

can  be  reached  after  playing  back,  then 
PBackS   P^iy  back,  especial^  if  you  have  any 

doubt  about  getting  out  towards  the 
hole.  And  in  playing  back  always  remember, 
if  the  next  shot  is  a  long  one,  that  you  want  to 
be  sufficiently  far  away  from  the  bunker  to  clear 
it  on  the  following  stroke  and  at  the  same  time 
gain  the  necessary  distance.  Unless,  however, 
the  chances  are  much  against  you  it  is  better 
to  play  out  towards  the  hole.  If  you  get  out 
in  this  way  you  can't  get  in  the  same  bunker 
on  your  next  stroke,  while  there  is  always 
a  possibility  of  doing  so  when  the  ball  has 
been  played  back. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  part  of  the  game  that 
calls  for  such  exercise  of  judgment  as  when 
you  are  in  a  hazard.  How  many  a  fine  score 
has  been  ruined  by  lack  of  discretion  and  self- 
control!  The  ball  is  lying  badly,  and  you 
attempt  to  play  it  out  and  succeed  only  in  put- 
ting it  in  a  worse  position.  After  expending 
several  strokes  in  a  vain  effort  to  get  it  over 

92 


PLAYING     OUT    OF    HAZARDS 

you  determine  to  play  it  back.  You  do  so, 
but  your  previous  experience  has  proved  so 
demoralizing  and  has  so  undermined  your 
confidence  that  it  is  no  small  wonder  if  you 
manage  to  put  your  next  shot  slap  into  the 
trouble  you  have  just  emerged  from. 

In  medal  play  it  is  better  to  play  cautiously 
and  avoid  taking  any  undue  risks.  In  match 
play  you  must  be  governed  largely  by  your 
opponent's  score. 

Unless  the  ball  is  lying  fairly  well  and  there 
is  no  opposing  face  the  stroke  necessary  to 
get  it  out  of  sand  is  different  in  character  from 
the  ordinary  one.  Always  remember  this. 
At  the  risk  of  being  tiresome  let  me  briefly 
run  over  what  you  should  do.  First  make  up 
your  mind  where  you  intend  playing  the  ball, 
then  take  your  stance,  with  feet  wide  apart  and 
worked  firmly  into  the  sand,  and  with  the  ball 
Hit  Back  ab°ut  rnidway  between.  Grip  tightly 
of  the  with  both  hands  and  bring  the  club  down 
as  straight  as  possible  until  the  sole  is 
within  an  inch  or  so  of  the  top  of  the  sand,  where 
you  propose  striking,  behind  the  ball.  Keep 
your  eye  rigidly  fastened  on  that  spot — not  on 
the  ball — and  withdraw  the  club  on  a  straight 
line  up  to  the  right  shoulder;  a  straight  line, 
mind,  not  a  rounded  one.  Then  bring  it  down 

93 


PR  A  C  T I C  A  L      GOLF 

again  on  the  same  straight  line  with  all  the 
force  you  can  controllably  command,  consistent 
with  accuracy.  As  it  sinks  into  the  sand  its 
course  may  then,  but  not  until  then,  be  slightly 
directed  towards  the  ball.  It  will  be  found  a 
hard  matter  to  bring  the  club  down  too  straight 
—the  natural  tendency  being  to  make  a  curve. 
As  one  is  not  of  course  permitted  to  sole  the  club 
in  a  hazard,  a  certain  allowance  must  be  made 
on  this  account  in  the  aim,  otherwise  there  is  a 
great  liability  of  hitting  too  close  to  the  ball 
or  even  the  ball  itself.  This  point  should 
also  be  carefully  remembered  in  playing  for 
distance  out  of  a  sand  pit  or  fairly  level  stretch 
where  there  is  no  obstruction  in  front,  and 
where  it  is  not  necessary  to  get  the  ball  up 
quickly.  In  a  case  of  this  kind  both  the  up- 
ward and  downward  hit — the  term  is  used 
advisedly,  as  all  bunker  shots  should  partake 
more  of  the  nature  of  a  hit  than  a  swing- 
should  be  less  vertical,  and  the  point  of  aim 
may  be  directed  a  trifle  closer  to  the  ball. 

The  preceding  remarks  may  also  be  applied 
to  a  ball  in  long  grass,  more  especially  with 
respect  to  the  necessity  of  using  a  more  or  less 
perpendicular  stroke.  If  the  swing  is  more 
rounded  —  the  ordinary  stroke,  in  short  —  the 
head  of  the  club  will  encounter  a  larger  share 

94 


PLAYING    OUT    OF    HAZARDS* 

of  grass,  and  in  cutting  through  it  a  great  deal 
of  the  power  of  the  stroke  is  lost,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  possibility  of  the  head  being  turned 
or  twisted. 

When  a  ball  is  to  be  played  out  of  a  hazard 
of  any  kind  the  prime  consideration  should  be 
to  make  sure  of  getting  it  out.  The  great 
mistake  which  many  players  make  is  to  strive 
both  to  get  it  out  and  get  length  as  well,  and 
in  their  effort  to  get  distance  (and  very  fre- 
quently distance  would  not  be  of  any  material 
help)  they  do  not  give  proper  attention  to  the 
fundamental  question  of  hitting  the  ball  clean 
and  simply  extricating  it  from  the  hazard. 
Having  failed  to  get  it  out  on  the  first  essay 
they  consider  the  wasted  shot  has  got  to  be 
made  up — and  this  is  usually  the  beginning 
of  a  long  procession  of  abortive  strokes. 

When  it  is  desired  to  play  the  ball  on  a  certain 
line  the  player  squares  the  face  of  the  club 
at  right  angles  thereto,  which  causes 
theciTb  it    to   S°   straight   if  properly  struck. 
Occasionally,  however,  this  is  not  ad- 
visable.    For  instance,  the  ball  may  be  lying 
at  the  edge  of  a  fence  where  it  is  not  possible 
to  make  the  swing  in  the  direction  that  you 
desire  the  ball  to  go.      Let  us  take,  for  ex- 
ample, a  ball  lying  within  a  foot  or  so  of  a 

95 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

fence  parallel  to  the  line  of  play,  and  where, 
owing  to  its  lie,  it  can  only  be  fairly  hit  at 
the  imminent  risk  of  sending  it  into  the  fence 
or  out  of  bounds. 

All  that  is  necessary  is  to  face  the  club 
around  in  the  direction  that  you  wish  to  send 
the  ball  and  play  the  stroke  in  the  regular  way. 
Do  not  change  the  stroke  itself  in  any  way; 
the  angle  of  the  face  of  the  club  will  do  the 
work.  As  a  further  aid  it  is  well  to  hit  some- 
what off  the  toe  of  the  club.  Instead  of  the 
ball  following  the  apparent  line  of  play,  as 
indicated  by  the  swing,  it  will  shoot  off  at  a 
tangent,  under  the  influence  of  the  abnormal 
facing  of  the  club. 


VIII 

GENERAL     REMARKS 

PRACTISING.— With  the  majority  of  players 
very  little,  if  any,  time  is  given  to  earnest, 
painstaking  practice;  they  want  to  play  the 
round  of  the  course  and  nothing  but  the 
round,  pleading  that  they  haven't  the  time 
to  waste  over  solitary  practice.  Now  it  takes 
a  very  long  time,  under  such  circumstances, 
for  any  man  to  acquire  any  degree  of  pro- 
ficiency in  the  game.  It  would  be  infinitely 
better  and  more  enduringly  satisfactory  if  he 
were  to  steel  his  heart  against  the  pleasure  of 
playing  around  with  one  of  his  own  calibre, 
and  once  in  a  while  betake  himself  to  some 
unfrequented  part  of  the  links,  and  with  half  a 
dozen  old  balls  put  in  an  hour  or  so  of  good, 
hard  work.  The  duplication,  again  and  again, 
of  full  strokes  with  each  club  would  give  him 
an  opportunity,  unobtainable  quite  so  well 
in  any  other  way,  of  ascertaining  exactly  his 
G  97 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

limitations,  and  furnish  a  chance  of  correcting 
existent  errors.  In  actual  playing  there  are 
only  eighteen  tee  shots  in  the  round,  mostly 
full  drives,  with  relatively  less  strokes  with 
each  other  club  used — excepting  the  putter. 
After  a  poor  stroke  of  any  kind,  he  has 
no  opportunity  of  trying  another  for  some 
time,  and  even  that  may  possibly  be  just  as 
badly  executed,  in  another  way.  One  may 
be  topped,  another  skyed,  a  third  sliced,  and 
so  on. 

The  very  best  players  will  occasionally  go 
off  with  some  particular  club.  The  remedy 
correct-  *s  *°  &°  ou^  al°ne;  or>  better  still,  with 

ing  an  instructor,  and  master  the  stroke. 
Unfortunately  the  player  cannot  see 
himself,  and  can  only  determine  from  actual 
results  what  the  contributory  causes  are.  Prog- 
ress, therefore,  must  necessarily  be  slow  unless 
he  is  under  the  eyes  of  some  one  competent 
to  point  out  the  actual  root  of  the  fault.  If  he 
is  really  anxious  for  improvement,  however, 
he  will  not  mind  all  the  trouble  which  such 
practice  entails,  and  will  acquire  a  fund  of 
knowledge  that  cannot  but  be  ultimately  useful. 

He  will  find  out  from  such  experience,  by 
varying  his  methods  of  playing,  how  mistakes 
are  made  and  how  to  correct  them.  Until 


GENERAL      R  E  M'  A  R  K  S 

he  has  worked  out  his  own  salvation  in 
some  such  way  he  will  hardly  make  any 
growing  or  permanent  improvement  in  his 
game. 

Take  the  drive,  for  instance.  Your  pet 
weakness  is  slicing.  First  look  at  yourself, 
as  it  were,  and  see  just  what  you  are  doing 
which  does  not  correspond  with  what  you  should 
do.  Try  this,  that,  and  the  other  thing,  until 
you  see  signs  of  improvement,  and  when  you 
find  you  are  on  the  right  track  keep  working 
on  those  lines.  The  experimenting  you  have 
gone  through  will  at  least  have  been  of  some 
value  in  teaching  you  what  to  avoid. 

So  many  things  are  responsible  for  slicing, 

either  singly  or  collectively,  that  it  may  take 

even  a  first-class  coach  some  little  time 

principal  to  put  his  finger  on  the  actual  seat  of 

causes  of  fae  trouble,  and  the  chances  are  that  it 


will  take  you  much  longer,  unassisted. 
Don't  be  discouraged,  however.  "Genius/' 
Carlyle,  I  think,  says,  "  is  simply  the  capacity 
of  taking  infinite  pains/' 

It  may  not  be  amiss  to  here  recapitulate  a 
few  of  the  principal  causes  of  slicing  : 

Hitting  off  the  heel. 

Pulling  the  arms  in. 

Improper  position  of  the  hands  in  gripping. 
99 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

Gripping  loosely  with  left  hand,  and  tightly 
with  the  right. 

Standing  too  far  back  of  the  ball. 

Each  of  these  faults  has  already  been  treated 
fully  in  a  previous  chapter.  Now  it  is  not  a 
bad  idea  in  seeking  a  cure  for  any  faulty 
methods  into  which  the  player  may  uncon- 
sciously have  drifted  to  deliberately  try  the 
effect  of  the  foregoing  and  carefully  observe 
the  results,  making  such  changes  as  may  be 
necessary  in  order  to  arrive  at  accuracy.  It 
ma}7  possibly  happen  that  only  one  screw  is 
loose,  in  which  case  a  beneficial  change  will 
soon  manifest  itself.  When  you  succeed  in 
getting  away  several  satisfactory  balls  con- 
secutively, take  particular  note  of  everything 
entering  into  the  stroke.  In  this  way,  and 
this  way  only,  can  steadiness  or  consistency 
be  the  more  quickly  attained — the  doing  of 
the  same  thing  in  the  same  way  every  time. 
Never  mind  if  your  grip  or  stance  or  swing 
may  be  outside  the  pale  of  orthodoxy,  so  con- 
sidered— if  you  can  secure  distance  and  rea- 
sonable accuracy  by  any  particular  style 
affected,  that  is  the  style  you  should  cultivate, 
provided  it  is  easy  and  natural. 

Pulling    or    hooking    is    so    comparatively 
rare,  and  the  reasons  therefor  having  already 

100 


GENERAL      REMARKS 

been   given,   it   is   unnecessary  to  here   dwell 
at  any  length  on  this  fault. 

Topping  is  far  more  common,  and  usually 
proceeds  from  over-eagerness  to  see  where  the 

ball  is  going,  the  eye  being  diverted  from 
Liking  the  ball  before  it  is  actually  hit.  The 
USPJ°°  same  is  largely  true  also  of  sclaffing. 

The  remedy  is  to  steel  your  mind  against 
any  thought  of  looking  up  until  three  or  four  sec- 
onds after  the  ball  has  been  struck.  This  is  one 
of  the  very  hardest  things  to  do  in  the  whole 
game.  This  looking  up  too  soon  does  not  make 
nearly  so  much  difference  in  the  long  game  as 
in  approaching  or  putting — there  it  is  absolutely 
fatal.  Another  cause  of  topping  or  sclaffing 
is  by  standing  too  close  to  or  too  far  away  from 
the  ball.  Until  you  fall  into  the  way  of  in- 
tuitively gauging  the  proper  distance  at  once, 
it  is  well  to  make  sure  you  are  right  by  meas- 
uring the  distance  with  the  right  arm  only 
gripping  the  club,  extended  in  an  easy,  natural 
manner,  shuffling  the  feet  until  you  feel  per- 
fectly comfortable ;  then  grip  with  the  left  hand 
and  don't  change  your  position. 

After  a  man  has  acquired  the  art  of  hitting 
clean  and  straight,  then  he  may  proceed  to 
satisfy  himself  as  to  how  far  and  how  sure 
he  can  go  with  each  club.  A  thorough  knowl- 

101 


P 1R  'A  C  T  I  C  A  L       GOLF 

edge  of  the  maximum  value  of  the  individual 
clubs  is  essential  and  can  only  be  obtained 
by  practice.  If  you  are  burdened  with 
a  fear  of  being  short,  by  all  means  take' 
a  more  powerful  club ;  it  is  much  easier 
to  bring  the  shot  off  successfully  with 
an  easy  swing  with  the  stronger  club  than  to 
force  matters  with  a  weaker  one.  Make  up 
your  mind  to  be  always  up  to  or  even  slightly 
beyond  the  hole.  Never  under-club  a  shot. 

It  is  advisable  not  to  devote  too  much  time 
to  practising  with  any  single  club,     With  the 
Don,t     driver  endeavor  to  play  straight  into  the 
over-     wind,  and  take  your  time  between  each 
stroke  until  you  have  sent  off  half  a 
dozen  balls.     Playing  against  the  wind  is  the 
best  kind  of  practice,  as  any  errors  of  slicing, 
pulling,  or  skying,  are  more  clearly  made  mani- 
fest.    Don't  drive  more  than  five  or  six  balls 
consecutively,  otherwise  the  muscles  will  soon 
become  tired. 

After  the  drive  take  your  cleek  and  play 
the  balls  back,  taking  them  just  as  they  lie. 
Make  a  point  of  never  improving  the  lie; 
rather  go  to  the  other  extreme  and  place  them 
in  an  indifferent  one.  Do  this  with  all  clubs, 
excepting  the  tee  shots.  If  you  can  succeed 
in  negotiating  them  fairly  well  out  of  a  poor 

102 


GENERAL      REMARKS 

lie  you  may  rest  assured  you  can  do  better 
with  a  good  lie. 

Then  take  a  turn  at  short  approaches  before 
trying  your  brassey,  regulating  the  use  of 
the  clubs  in  such  a  way  as  not  to  run  any 
risk  of  fatiguing  yourself. 

Practice  of  this  kind  now  and  then  will  effect 
a  very  marked  improvement  in  the  game  of  the 
comparative  beginner,  and  will  also  tend  to 
strengthen  the  game  of  the  more  advanced 
player,  far  more  than  any  amount  of  match  play. 

If  you  are  working  up  for  any  important  match 
or  tournament  it  is  well  to  commence  practis- 
ing a  few  weeks  beforehand,  devoting  a 
ing  for    couple  of  hours  a  day  twice  a  week  to  a 
Tmen"s"   thorough  acquaintance  with  your  clubs. 
Do  not,  however,  continue  such  practice 
up  to  the  day;  stop  two  or  three  days  before 
the  competition.     In  the  mean  time  play  a  few 
rounds,  if  possible,  against  a  slightly  stronger 
opponent.    If  a  man  could  always  play  against 
a  somewhat  better  player  a  very  sensible  im- 
provement would  assert   itself   in   his   game, 
while  the  contrary  is  very  apt  to  be  the  case 
if  he  should  keep  on  playing  with  a  weaker 
man.     If  you  feel  that  you  have  any  advan- 
tage at  all  always  concede  such  odds  as  will 
compel  you  to  play  your  best  game  to  win. 

103 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

Outside  of  the  above,  I  do  not  recommend 
any  special  training  for  any  important  event. 
Let  your  habits  of  life,  if  temperate,  remain 
'unchanged  throughout. 

All  of  the  important  tournaments  in  this 
country  have  as  their  basis  a  preliminary 
stroke  competition  of  eighteen  or  thirty -six 
holes,  as  the  case  may  be,  those  making 
either  the  sixteen  or  thirty-two  lowest  scores 
being  eligible  to  continue  at  match  play. 

The  This  has  proved  to  be  an  admirable 
American  system.  No  one  can  be  considered  a 
finished  golfer  who  does  not  combine 
in  himself  the  qualities  needed  for  both  suc- 
cessful stroke  play  and  match  play.  The 
good  medal  player  is  not  necessarily  a  good 
match  player,  nor  is  the  good  match  player 
always  strong  at  stroke  competition.  It  is 
somewhat  rare  to  find  the  player  who  is  really 
first-class  in  both  departments. 

In  the  preliminary  round  it  is  the  more 
common  practice  to  first  classify  the  com- 
petitors on  their  known  form  before  making 
the  drawings.  There  is  a  good  deal  to  be  said 
in  favor  of  such  procedure,  as  it  obviates  the 
possibility  of  a  good  player  having  a  poor 
player  as  his  running  mate,  when  justice  is 
done  to  neither  as  a  general  thing.  The  better 
104 


GENERAL      REMARKS 

player  is  unconsciously  affected  usually  by 
the  comparatively  poor  showing  made  by  his 
competitor,  and  he  is  apt  to  play  sympathet- 
ically, while  the  weaker  player  is  striving  so 
hard  to  play  his  very  best  to  keep  up  that  in 
the  majority  of  cases  he  fails  to  come  within 
several  strokes  of  his  normal  game. 

The  best  course  to  pursue  in  stroke  com- 
petition is  to  make  up  your  mind  to  play  each 
Hints  on  no^e  on  scnedule,  arranging  a  mental 
Medai  bogey  according  to  the  length  of  the 
hole  and  your  known  ability  to  reach 
the  green  in  a  certain  number  of  strokes,  ap- 
proximated as  closely  as  possible  to  par  play, 
disregarding  entirely  the  work  of  your  com- 
petitor. Never  mind  what  he  does,  play  your 
own  game.  Let  each  shot  be  made  with  espe- 
cial reference  to  the  next  one,  not  with  reference 
to  the  immediate  one  of  your  present  competitor. 
And  don't  try  to  beat  yourself.  Put  aside  en- 
tirely any  thought  of  what  your  ultimate  score 
may  be;  play  each  hole  for  all  it  is  worth. 
Don't  allow  yourself  to  be  discouraged  by  a  poor 
shot  or  a  series  of  poor  plays.  Blot  out  all  re- 
membrance of  such,  and  concentrate  your  mind 
upon  each  individual  stroke.  Nor  must  you 
permit  yourself  to  be  unduly  "set  up"  over 
having  possibly  a  very  good  score  back  of  you. 

105 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

Now  all  this  applies  very  largely  to  match 
play,  but  not  wholly,  for  you  have  now  to 
A  few  regulate  your  game  very  frequently 
words  by  wnat  your  opponent  does,  especial- 
Match  ly  when  he  plays  any  particular  hole 
>lay  unusually  well.  When  he  gets  into 
trouble,  pursue  the  even  tenor  of  your  way, 
taking  no  chances.  But  if,  for  instance,  he 
is  on  the  green  and  absolutely  certain  to  go 
down  in  two  more,  and  you  are  off  the  green 
and  playing  the  odd,  you  must  make  up  your 
mind  that  either  the  approach  must  be  dead 
or  you  must  somehow  hole  out  on  the  next, 
particularly  if  you  are  playing  two  more  on 
the  green.  If,  in  such  or  like  circumstances, 
the  loss  of  the  hole  seems  assured,  you  must 
play  boldly  in  an  effort  to  steal  a  half.  It 
is  in  such  cases  that  the  general  character 
of  your  play  must  differ  from  stroke  compe- 
tition methods.  If  you  fail  to  halve  the  hole 
you  might  just  as  well  be  still  playing  in 
yonder  bunker — whether  you  are  one  or  six 
strokes  more  matters  little  if  the  hole  be 
lost.  So  also  must  your  general  play  be 
governed  if  you  are,  say,  four  down  with  six 
to  play.  Then,  if  ever,  must  you  endeavor  to 
get  inside  your  opponent,  and  keep  him  play- 
ing the  odd.  You  are  playing  a  very  up-hill 
106 


GENERAL      REMARKS 

game  and  are  bound  to  take  chances  somewhat 
out  of  the  ordinary  if  you  desire  to  win. 

Over-confidence  in  your  ability  to  beat  an 
opponent  has  lost  many  a  match.  ;'  Thrice 
armed  is  he  who  hath  his  quarrel  just,  but 
four  times  he  who  gets  his  blow  in  fust."  You 
are  pitted  against  a  man  whom  you  can  beat 
with  comparative  ease,  and  you  embark  on 
the  round  with  a  feeling  that  it  does  not  matter 
much  if  you  lose  the  first  few  holes — you  can 
easily  make  them  up  later  on.  Now  this  is  all 
wrong.  Almost  before  you  know  it  the  game 
has  advanced  sufficiently  far  to  make  the  result 
anything  but  the  sure  thing  you  anticipated, 
and  a  slight  feeling  of  irritation  is  engendered 
that  you  should  be  "  down  "  to  a  weaker  player. 
This  in  itself  is  not  conducive,  as  a  general 
thing,  to  bringing  out  your  best  game,  and 
when  is  allied  to  this  feeling  one  of  some 
anxiety  as  to  your  being  able  to  pull  up,  the 
chances  grow  more  remote  of  your  being  able  to 
do  so.  Your  opponent  meanwhile,  encouraged 
by  his  unexpected  success,  is  brimful  of  con- 
fidence and  is  in  just  the  right  vein  to  play  the 
best  game  of  which  he  is  capable.  The  best 
way,  therefore,  is  to  endeavor  to  win  the  first 
few  holes,  and  not  hold  your  opponent  too 
cheaply  until  the  match  is  virtually  assured. 

107 


IX 

CL  UBS 

To  play  the  game  properly  the  following 
clubs  are  necessary :  driver,  brassey,  cleek, 
mid-iron,  mashie,  and  putter.  Although  not 
absolutely  essential  a  niblick  may  also  be 
added.  Many  good  golfers  rarely  carry  one, 
using  the  mashie  instead,  except  perhaps  in 
an  important  match.  Let  us  first  take  the 
driver. 

With  all  the  varieties  on  the  market — and 
their  name  is  legion — he  would  be  fastidious 
indeed  who  could  not  find  one  to  suit  him, 
provided  he  knew  what  he  wanted.  Tastes 
vary  in  a  marked  degree,  and  sentiment  goes 
for  so  much  as  to  largely  account  for  the  many 
different  styles,  for  what  may  be  eminently 
adapted  for  A  would  be  useless  in  the  hands 
of  B.  Yet  we  see  B  vainly  endeavoring  to 
pla}^  with  a  club  entirely  unsuited  to  him, 
simply  because  A  does  so  excellently  with 

108 


CLUBS 

one  of  the  same  kind,  B  being  totally  unmind- 
ful of  the  fact  that  their  styles  are  wholly 
dissimilar.  So  many  things  enter  into  the 
make-up  of  the  club,  apart  altogether  from  the 
model  or  pattern  of  the  head  (such  as  the  lie,  the 
weight,  the  length,  and  qualities  of  the  shaft), 
that  it  is  a  rare  thing  to  find  any  two  exactly 
alike.  It  is,  therefore,  only  by  a  good  deal  of 
experimenting  that  the  player  can  arrive  at  any 
fair  idea  of  what  best  suits  him.  Some- 
the  cTubs  body  has  said  that  it  is  about  as  difficult 
that  suit  t  select  a  driver  for  another  man  as  it 

You 

would  be  a  wife.  A  divorce  from  the  one, 
however,  is  a  simple  matter.  In  the  hands  of  a 
first-class  player  there  is  comparatively  little 
difference  in  results  between  any  two  entirely 
different  clubs  that  you  may  hand  him,  since 
he  has  the  faculty  of  quickly  adapting  him- 
self to  their  peculiarities.  And  clubs  have 
peculiarities,  as  we  shall  shortly  find. 

It  is  much  easier  to  get  a  club  which  will 
humor  your  peculiarities  than  it  is  to  play  with 
one  which  has  peculiarities  at  variance  with 
your  natural  style.  Make  the  club  suit  you 
instead  of  making  yourself  suit  the  club. 
The  great  thing  is  to  know  just  what  you  need. 
Few  men  have  the  time  or  the  disposition 
to  run  through  the  whole  tribe  of  clubs  and 

109 


PR  A   C  T  I  C  A  L       GOLF 

ascertain  for  themselves,  in  a  practical  way, 
whether  they  can  accomplish  better  work  with 
a  heavy  head  united  to  a  stiff  and  long  shaft, 
or  a  heavy  one  with  a  stiff  and  short  shaft,  or 
a  heavy  head  with  a  long  and  whippy  shaft,  or 
one  with  a  short  and  whippy  shaft,  or,  finally, 
a  light  head  with  these  various  equipments. 
As  a  general  thing  the  beginner  makes  the 
mistake  of  selecting  too  heavy  a  club,  from  a 
Avoid  ^a°k  °f  appreciation  of  the  fact  that  it 
Heavy  is  not  so  much  the  weight  of  the  club 
which  drives  a  long  ball  as  it  is  the  speed 
at  which  it  is  moving  when  it  meets  the  ball. 
It  is  obvious  that  in  the  hands  of  the  ordinary 
player  a  heavy  club  cannot  be  swung  so  fast 
as  a  lighter  one.  When  the  beginner  grasps 
this  fact  in  its  true  significance  he  will  have 
made  a  long  step  towards  improvement  in  dis- 
tance. Of  course  there  is  a  limit  as  to  the 
weight  of  the  head.  With  too  light  a  one 
the  additional  speed  gained  in  the  swing 
does  not  compensate  equivalently  for  the  lack 
of  weight  any  more  than  the  very  heavy  head 
makes  up  for  the  necessarily  slower  swing. 
There  is  a  happy  medium.  This  happy  me- 
dium, however,  is  not  a  fixed  quantity,  since  all 
men  are  not  cast  in  the  same  mould.  Some 
have  very  strong  wrists,  some  strong  arms, 
no 


CLUBS 

some  are  gifted  with  both,  and  when  is  joined 
to  this  combination  a  lissomeness  of  body, 
the  naturally  long  driver  is  the  result.  Such 
a  man  is  likely  to  have  a  very  rapid  swing, 
and  will  probably  prefer  a  stiff  shaft.  The 
man  with  a  less  rapid  swing  will  get  equally 
as  long  a  ball  by  using  a  more  supple  shaft. 
The  more  "  music  "  there  is  in  the  shaft,  how- 
ever, the  greater  is  the  liability  to  slice  or  pull, 
especially  if  the  least  pressing  be  indulged  in. 

Let  us  take  the  head  by  itself  and  examine  it 
in  detail.     It  is  usually  made  of  beech,  persim- 
mon, or  dogwood.   A  beech  head  is  gen- 
Heands    erally  credited  with  driving  a  slightly 
longer  ball,  and  usually  one  with  more 
carry.     This  is  probably  due  to  its  more  resil- 
ient qualities.  Being  somewhat  softer  than  the 
other  woods  mentioned  the  ball  sinks  into  the 
face  a  trifle  more  appreciably,  and  therefore  is 
practically  an  integral  part  of  the  head  for  a 
fraction  of  a  second  longer.    In  other  words, 
the  head  is  in  contact  with  the  ball  for  a  longer 
period  of  time,  infinitesimally  so  when  actually 
measured,  but  enough  to  store  up  a  shade  more 
energy  in  the  ball. 

Beech  seems  to  possess  this  quality  of  re- 
siliency in  about  the  right  degree,  being  neither 
too  soft  nor  yet  too  hard.  The  climate  here, 

in 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

however,  does  not  lend  itself  to  the  preservation 
of  the  wood,  and  it  very  soon  cracks  in  the 
face,  necessitating  a  leather  inset.  With  a  good 
leather  face,  the  head  is  almost  as  good  as 
ever,  about  the  only  objection  being  that  in 
wet  weather  the  leather  becomes  more  or  less 
pulpy,  and  consequently  does  not  drive  quite 
so  far.  When  the  face  shows  signs  of  crack- 
ing it  should  not  be  allowed  to  go  too  far  before 
being  faced  with  leather.  It  will  not  do  any 
harm  to  a  leather  face  to  give  it  a  coat  of  good 
spar  varnish.  This  will  assist  in  rilling  up 
the  pores  and  help  to  keep  moisture  out.  The 
varnish  should,  however,  be  allowed  to  thor- 
oughly dry  before  the  club  is  used. 

Next  to  beech,  persimmon  is  a  splendid 
wood,  and  on  account  of  its  greater  durabil- 
ity is  preferred  by  many  players.  It  is  not 
quite  so  resilient  as  beech,  but  drives  almost 
as  long  a  ball,  and  lasts  much  longer.  Dog- 
wood is  also  an  excellent  wood,  somewhat 
harder  than  persimmon,  and  more  durable 
than  either  it  or  beech.  Except  in  wet  weather 
it  is  apparently  improved  in  driving  power 
by  being  leather-faced.  There  is  so  little  to 
choose  among  the  three  woods  mentioned  that 
it  resolves  itself  into  a  question  largely  of  sen- 
timent, pretty  much  the  same  as  the  shape  of 
112 


CLUBS 

the  head  appeals  to  different  players  in  various 
ways. 

Concerning  models,  it  undoubtedly  appears  to 
be  the  tendency  to  materially  shorten  the  length 
of  the  face,  especially  with  class  players, 
shapes  The  only  advantage  of  a  wealth  of  face 
is  that  it  offers  more  margin  for  error,  the 
inaccurate  player  being  more  likely  to  hit  the 
ball  with  some  part  of  it,  even  though  a  slice  or 
a  pull  may  result  through  the  ball  being  struck 
off  the  heel  or  the  toe  of  the  club.  The  more 
accurate  hitter,  however,  finds  that  the  weight 
of  the  wood  unnecessarily  taken  up  by  a  long 
face  can  be  used  to  greater  mechanical  advan- 
tage, and  he  accordingly  proceeds  to  cut  off 
the  toe  and  add  its  equivalent  weight  where 
it  will  do  the  most  good — behind  the  point  of 
impact.  Or  he  gets  a  new  club  built  on  these 
lines,  and  it  does  not  take  him  long  to  discover 
the  greater  merits  of  the  change  from  the 
longer  balls  he  is  enabled  to  drive.  Another 
feature  in  connection  with  the  small -faced 
head  is  perhaps  worthy  of  consideration,  in 
respect  of  the  lesser  atmospheric  resistance 
encountered  in  the  swing.  Like  the  weight, 
however,  the  size  and  shape  of  the  head  are 
matters  of  individual  preference. 

Heads  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  those 
H  113 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

with  a  scare  to  which  the  shaft  is  glued  and 

then  bound  with  wnipping,  and  those  into  the 

neck  of  which  a  hole   is  bored  to   re- 

Heads  v.  ceive  the  shaft.     The  latter  are  com- 


moniy   known   as   socket   heads.     Be- 

Heads  / 

longing  to  the  latter  family  may  be 
included  also  the  spliced  fork,  formed  by  saw- 
ing a  narrow  slit  about  one-quarter  inch  wide, 


SPLICED  FORK,  REGULAR,  AND  FLUSH-JOINT  SOCKETS 

and  two  and  one-half  inches  to  three  inches 
deep  in  the  neck.  Both  of  the  latter  class  ap- 
pear to  possess  an  advantage  over  the  orig- 
inal type  in  that  the  spring  is  brought  closer 
to  the  face,  enabling  a  somewhat  longer  ball 
to  be  driven.  Moreover,  there  is  not  the  same 
liability  of  the  head  becoming  unglued  and 
flying  off  the  shaft. 

Recognizing   the    undoubted   merits  of  the 
114 


CLUBS 

ordinary  socket  head,  a  firm  of  well-known 
manufacturers  have  developed  the  principle 
still  further  by  shortening  the  neck  until  there 
is  practically  no  neck  left,  a  hole  being  drilled 


SHOWING  SECTION  OF  AND   A  SCREW  SOCKET 

through  what  little  is  left  of  it  with  a  left-hand 
screw,  to  within  about  one  -  sixteenth  of  the 
sole,  and  the  shaft  being  firmly  secured  there- 
in with  glue.  Actual  tests  have  demonstrated 
the  longer  driving  power  of  this  head. 

The  question  as  to  how  the  head  should 
lie  when  affixed  to  the  shaft  is  purely  a  mat- 
ter of  individual  taste.     It  may,  how- 
The  Lie   ever,  be  remarked   in   this  connection 
that  the  player  who  is  habitually  prone 
to  slicing  may  remedy  this  weakness  to  some 
extent  by  using  a  head  with  the  toe  slightly 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

cocked  up  when  held  naturally,  while  he  whose 
besetting  sin  is  an  undue  inclination  towards 
pulling  may  find  a  partial  corrective  by  using 
a  flat-lying  club. 

In  the  matter  of  weight,  no  absolutely  fixed 

rule  can  be  laid  down,  as  so  much  depends 

upon  the  physical  conformation  of  the 

of  Head  plaver>  and  the  character  of  his  swing. 
It  may,  however,  be  affirmed  that  the 
weight  of  the  ordinary  head  should  not  be  less 
than  six  and  one  -half  ounces,  or  more  than 
eight  and  one-  half  ounces.  The  happy  me- 
dium will  probably  be  found  best  suited  to  the 
general  run  of  men.  It  will  have  been  observed 
that  these  limitations  apply  to  the  ordinary 
head,  by  which  is  meant  the  ordinary  head  as 
spliced  to  the  shaft.  The  socket  head,  and 
especially  the  last  one  of  this  class  just  re- 
ferred to,  can  carry  a  shade  more  weight,  ow- 
ing to  the  saving  effected  by  the  abolition  of 
the  neck. 

The  disposition  of  the  lead  in  a  head  exercises 

a  very  marked  influence  on  the  accurate  flight 

of  a  ball.     If  it  be  massed  equally  on 

of  Lead  both  sides  behind  the  centre  of  the  face, 


on  Direc-  ft^      ^a\\  struck  properly  in  the  mid- 

tion  J 

die  of  the  face  will  assuredly  go  straight, 
while  the  same  ball  if  hit  off  the  heel  or  toe 

116 


CLUBS 

will  almost  surely  be  sliced  or  pulled,  as  the 
case  may  be.  Consequently,  if  the  lead  be 
inserted  with  the  bulk  running  towards  the 
heel,  a  ball  hit  in  the  centre  of  the  face  will 
likely  be  pulled,  while  a  ball  hit  in  the  same 
place  off  a  club  the  lead  in  which  inclines 
towards  the  toe  will  in  all  probability  be  some- 
what sliced. 

In  order  to  avoid  the  possibility  of  any 
spin  being  imparted  to  the  ball,  either  to  the 
right  or  the  left,  it  is  advisable  to  have  the 
lead  put  in  equidistant  laterally  behind  the 
proposed  point  of  impact,  which  is  the  centre 
of  the  face. 

According,  also,  as  to  whether  the  lead  be  well 
up  towards  the  top  or  down  towards  the  sole, 
so  is  the  trajectory  of  the  ball  affected.  In  the 
former  case  the  ball  will  have  a  low  flight  with 
but  little  carry,  and  considerable  run,  while 
in  the  latter  a  high  ball  with  but  little  run 
will  result. 

The  angle  which  the  face  of  the  club  presents 
to  the  ball  is  a  very  important  factor.  It 
should  properly  be  at  right  angles  to  the  pro- 
posed flight  of  the  ball.  If  it  be  hooked  and 
the  ball  be  truly  hit  a  pull  will  certainly  follow, 
while  if  the  natural  lie  is  so  laid  away  as  to  face 
to  the  right  the  ball  will  go  in  that  direction. 

117 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

Some  players  with  a  faulty  swing  or  de- 
ficient follow  -  through  purposely  use  a  club 
slightly  hooked  to  counteract  such 
faces'1  weakness,  particularly  players  who 
seem  to  find  it  impossible  to  avoid 
slicing.  There  is  no  doubt  that  a  hooked 
face  acts  as  a  corrective  of  slicing.  The 
true  remedy,  however,  should  be  applied  to 
the  swing  itself.  That  is  where  the  trouble 
originates  and  resides.  The  bulger  head  owes 
its  origin  to  the  innate  tendency  of  a  ball 
being  hit  off  the  heel  describing  a  curve  to 
the  right,  and  one  off  the  toe  to  the  left.  To 
offset  this  the  face  is  made  with  a  suggestion 
of  convexity,  hooked,  as  it  were,  towards  the 
heel  and  laid  away  towards  the  toe,  the  centre 
being  practically  at  right  angles  to  the  true 
direction.  The  true  type  of  the  bulger  head 
has  fallen  into  disuse,  and  now  the  vast  major- 
ity are  made  with  practically  straight  faces. 

Some   men    have   difficulty   in   getting   the 
ball  up,   while  others  seem  unable  to  avoid 
Driving   skying  their  tee  shots,  irrespective  of 
High     the  face  being  slightly  laid  back  or  be- 
ing putter-faced,  and  also  without  ref- 
erence to  the  height  of  the  tee  used.     This  indi- 
cates that  there  is  unquestionably  some  defect 
again  in  the  swing.     With  a  correct  swing  it 
118 


CLUBS 

follows  that  when  the  face  of  the  club  is  laid 
back  a  higher  ball  is  driven  than  with  a  club 
having  a  straight  or  putter  face.  The  higher 
ball  is  perhaps  more  effective  with  the  wind,  or 
where  a  hazard  involving  a  long  carry  has  to 
be  negotiated,  but  against  the  wind  it  is  a  bit 
of  a  handicap. 

By  means  of  a  comparatively  straight-faced 
club,  however,  a  high  or  a  low  ball  may  be 
driven,  according  to  the  height  of  the  tee  used. 
In  this  connection  it  may  be  remarked,  en 
passant,  that  most  players  tee  their  balls  too 
high. 

In  selecting  a  head  it  is  well  to  see  that  the 
grain  of  the  wood  runs  at  right  angles  to  the 

The      face,  or  approximately  so,  and  straight 
Grain  of  Up  the   neck.     This  not  only  contrib- 
utes in  a  degree   towards  greater  dis- 
tance, but  tends  also  to  greater  longevity,  as 
it  were,  of  the  head  itself  by  reason  of  the 
lesser  liability  of  flaking  or  cracking. 

Before  leaving  the  maker's  hands  the  head 

is  given  a  rubbing  of  linseed  oil  on  all  parts 

excepting  the  face  and  the  sole,  and 

oinngf  then  varnished,  in  order  to   keep  out 

moisture.     A  few  makers  even  put  a 

coat  of  varnish  on  the  sole,  and  I  am  not  sure 

that  this  isn't  a  good  idea.     It  is  advisable  to 

119 


P  R  A  C  T  I  C  A  L       GOLF 

occasionally  put  a  touch  of  linseed  oil  on  all 
parts  excepting  the  face.  Never  keep  clubs 
in  a  hot  place  or  a  damp  one.  In  a  hot  at- 
mosphere the  glue  will  be  affected  and  loose 
heads  result,  and,  moreover,  the  natural  supply 
of  oil  in  the  cells  of  the  wood  will  soon  dry 
out,  and  cracks  will  inevitably  result.  In  a 
damp  situation  moisture  will  be  absorbed,  and 
the  heads  will  lose  driving  power.  A  cool,  dry 
place  is  the  best. 


X 

CLUB    SHAFTS 

HAVING  dealt  with  the  head  sufficiently  in 
detail  for  all  practical  purposes  let  us  now  turn 
our  attention  to  the  shaft,  which  is,  perhaps,  the 
most  important  part  of  the  whole  club.  A  poor 
head  on  a  good  shaft  makes  a  much  better  club 
than  a  good  head  on  a  poor  shaft.  It  is  safe 
to  say  that  the  majority  of  shafts  as  ordinarily 
turned  out  are  not  by  any  means  first  class,  and 
it  is  harder  to  get  a  good  one  than  a  good  head. 

For  one  really  good  one  you  will  find  ten 
indifferent  ones,  some  of  which  indeed  are 
absolutely  impossible.  The  only  remedy  is 
to  get  your  clubs  from  a  reputable  maker,  or 
select  the  shafts  yourself. 

On  the  whole,  hickory  is  the  best  wood, 
and  since  this  seems  to  be  an  accepted  fact  we 
will  not  trouble  ourselves  to  discuss  the  relative 
merits  of  others  which  are  sometimes  used, 
with  more  or  less  success. 

121 


PRACTICAL       GO L F 

Of  the  different  grades  of  hickory  the  clear 
white  is  probably  the  best.  In  selecting  a  shaft 

The  see  that  the  grain  runs  as  straight  as 
selection  possible  throughout  the  entire  length, 
*  and  that  the  shaft  recovers  its  straight- 
ness  quickly  when  subjected  to  pressure.  It  is 
better,  perhaps,  to  be  very  stiff,  as  it  can  then  be 
worked  down,  and  unnecessary  weight  be  thus 
disposed  of  without  affecting  the  desired  spring 
or  suppleness,  or  running  any  risk  of  its  be- 
coming warped.  A  shaft  which  stays  bent 
when  pressure  is  exerted  lacks  driving  power. 
If  it  springs  back  to  its  original  shape  and  at 
the  same  time  is  straight  grained,  it  is  pretty 
sure  to  be  a  good  one.  Get  one  that  fits  both 
requirements.  The  trouble  with  the  major- 
ity of  shafts  which  are  turned  out  is  that  the 
wood  has  not  been  properly  seasoned  and 
they  soon  lose  their  shape.  The  lighter  it  is 
in  weight,  combined  with  stiffness,  the  better. 
We  are  dealing  now,  remember,  with  shafts 
in  the  rough,  although  all  that  has  been  said 
applies  largely  to  the  finished  article.  Of 
course  it  is  patent,  in  referring  to  the  weight, 
that  this  has  reference  to  the  shaft  before  it 
is  fixed  to  the  head.  Therefore,  we  say  that 
a  really  good  shaft  should  be  light,  while 
possessing  at  the  same  time  the  other  qualities 

122 


CLUB      SHAFTS 

mentioned.  It  is  a  somewhat  singular,  and, 
at  first  sight,  rather  anomalous,  fact  that  a 
heavy  shaft  on,  say,  a  seven-and-a-half-ounce 
head  will  make  the  club  feel  lighter  than  a 
lighter  shaft  on  the  same  head.  It  is  all  a 
matter  of  balance. 

A  wobbly  shaft  is  not  recommended  for  any 
player.  The  really  good  one  has  a  steely 
sort  of  spring,  which  is  somewhat  rare  to  find. 
The  spring  should  be  felt  throughout  the  en- 
tire length,  but  in  a  greater  degree  towards 
the  head.  Very  frequently  one  will  be  ap- 
parently dead,  without  any  responsiveness, 
when  fitted  to  the  head.  Such  a  one  may  often 
be  made  just  right  by  thinning  it  off  slightly 
under  the  grip. 

The  man  with  a  very  fast  swing  will  find 
it  more  conducive  to  accuracy  to  use  a  some- 
what stiffer  shaft  than  the  player  with  less 
freedom.  With  a  limber  shaft  in  the  hands 
of  the  rapid  swinger  the  hands  will  arrive  at 
the  ball  before  the  head,  and  slicing  and  pull- 
ing will  probably  result.  In  a  matter  of  this 
kind  it  can  only  be  left  to  the  individual  to 
work  out  his  own  salvation,  and  ascertain 
for  himself  the  degree  of  suppleness  needed, 
keeping  in  mind  the  general  principles  referred 
to.  The  balance  of  the  club  is  largely  governed 
123 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

by  the  length  and  character  of  the  shaft.  It 
may  safely  be  said  that  a  seven-and-a-half- 
ounce  head  will  feel  lighter  on  a  shaft 
forty-three  and  a  half  to  forty-four  and 
a  half  inches  long  as  measured  from  the 
sole  of  the  club  if  gripped  at  forty-two  or  forty- 
three  inches  than  the  same  head  will  feel  on  a 
shaft  forty-two  or  forty-three  inches  long  when 
the  latter  is  gripped  at  the  end.  Just  what  the 
length  should  be  must  be  left  to  the  player's 
own  judgment.  Some  short  men  play  with 
long  clubs,  while  others  affect  very  short  ones, 
and  the  same  is  true  of  tall  men,  yet  the  actual 
results  are  approximately  the  same.  From 
forty-one  to  forty-four  inches,  as  measured 
from  the  extreme  end  to  the  sole  of  the  club, 
appears  to  be  the  general  range. 

What  has  already  been  stated  regarding 
the  care  of  heads  applies  with  equal  force  to 
shafts.  They  should  occasionally  be  oiled,  and 
should  be  kept  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

THE  BRASSEY  AND  OTHER  CLUBS 

We  now  come  to  the  brassey.  This  is  sub- 
stantially the  same  as  the  driver,  excepting 
that  it  is  a  trifle  heavier  and  more  laid  back, 
and  has  a  brass  plate  affixed  to  the  sole. 

124 


CLUB      SHAFTS 

Usually,  also,  the  shaft  is  a  shade  stiffer. 
There  are  good  reasons  for  these  slight  dif- 
ferences. On  a  hole  where  distance  is  neces- 
sary this  is  the  club  usually  employed  after 
the  tee  shot  with  the  driver,  and  you  are  called 
upon  to  play  the  ball  as  it  lies.  If  it  is  practi- 
cally teed  up  the  driver  is  the  best  club  to  use. 
More  frequently,  however,  it  is  not  teed  up, 
and  often  is  lying  very  indifferently.  To  get 
it  up  the  face  of  the  brassey  is  usually  laid 
back  a  little  more  than  the  driver,  and  it  is 
preferably  a  trifle  heavier  than  the  latter,  and 
with  a  somewhat  stiffer  shaft,  so  as  to  cut 
through  any  obstructions  after  the  ball  is 
hit.  To  aid  in  playing  the  ball  out  of  a  cuppy 
lie  the  face  is  all  the  better  for  being  smaller 
than  the  driver,  and  the  sole  should  also  be 
more  or  less  convex,  to  suit  the  taste  of  the 
user.  A  small  head  with  a  convex  sole  will 
fit  into  a  poor  lie  much  better  than  one  with  a 
longer  face  and  a  flat  sole. 

For  all  round  play  a  narrower  face  is  better, 

assisting,  as  it  does,  in  getting  the  ball  up  bet- 

Narrow    ^6r*     With  the  ball  as  it  is  ordinarily 

Face     found  after  the  tee  shot  there  is  little 

danger  of  getting  too  much  under  it, 

without  sclaffing,  and  the  narrow  face  comes 

in  very  useful.      The  deeper  the  face  is  the 

125 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

greater  is  the  tendency  to  drive  a  low  ball.  A 
certain  reasonable  depth  is  all  the  better  in  a 
driver  where  the  ball  is  usually  played  off  a 
tee,  but  the  conditions  are  not  exactly  the  same 
where  a  brassey  is  called  into  requisition. 

The  deeper  the  face  of  the  brassey  the  more 
it  requires  to  be  laid  back  or  lofted.  Most 
brassies  are  made  with  the  face  both  too  deep 
and  too  long — the  unnecessary  wealth  of  wood 
being  an  absolute  detriment  instead  of  an  as- 
sistance. 

The  brass  plate  should  not  be  too  thick. 
The  fact  that  the  club  is  so  protected  at  the 
sole  is  of  some  sentimental  value,  and  the 
player  is  imbued  with  the  feeling  that  he  can 
bang  it  into  the  ball  freely  without  any  fear 
of  harming  the  club,  whereas  with  the  driver 
he  would  be  somewhat  inclined  to  ease  up 
on  the  stroke  lest  he  should  perchance  strike 
some  unseen  pebble  or  other  underlying  ob- 
struction. 

The  screws  which  hold  the  plate  sometimes 
work  loose.  This  trouble  may  easily  be  rem- 
edied by  putting  glue  in  the  holes  before  in- 
serting the  screws. 

The  cleek  is  used  where  the  distance  from 
the  hole  is  between  a  full  brassey  shot  and  a 
full  iron,  or  when  the  ball  is  lying  badly  and 
126 


CLUB      SHAFTS 

as  great  a  distance  as  can  be  secured  is  neces- 
sary, and  when  the  nature  of  the  lie  hardly 
concern  a(miits  of  the  brassey  being  used.  The 
ing  the  shaft  should  be  fairly  stiff,  and  the  head 
only  moderately  laid  back  for  general 
purposes.  The  blade  should  not  be  too  long, 
and  it  should  err  on  the  side  of  being  narrow 
in  depth  rather  than  otherwise.  It  is  all  the 
better,  as  well,  to  be  short  in  the  socket.  The 
greater  amount  of  weight  in  the  blade  should 
incline  towards  the  sole. 

The  mid-iron  is  usually  employed  when  the 

stroke  to  be  played  is  neither  a  cleek  shot  nor 

a  full  mashie.  It  is  also  frequently  used 

Mid-iron   f°r  running-up  approaches  instead  of 

pitching  with  the  mashie.     It  is  more 

laid  back  than   the   cleek   and  more  heavily 

weighted  towards  the  sole,  with  the  result  that 

the  ball  is  more  lofted  and  has  less  run.     The 

face  is  all  the  better  for  being  a  trifle  longer 

and  deeper  than  the  cleek. 

Next   in   order    comes   the    mashie.      This, 
I   consider,    should   be    fairly   heavy  —  much 
heavier,  proportionately,  than  the  other 
wilshie    clubs.  The  really  best  way  of  approach- 
ing with  this  club  demands,  ordinarily, 
that  a  certain  amount  of  turf  should  be  taken 
after  the  ball  is  hit.     Very  frequently,  indeed, 

127 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

it  happens  that  a  good  deal  of  turf  has  to  be 
taken,  by  reason  of  a  poor  lie,  with  a  trifle, 
sometimes,  before  the  ball  is  reached.  On 
this  account  a  fairly  heavy  head  is  a  desid- 
eratum, as  a  light  one  would  be  the  more  in- 
clined to  be  diverted  in  its  course  from  con- 
tact with  the  ground.  The  blade  is  better 
for  being  deep  and  short  in  the  face.  By 
the  greater  depth  more  latitude  for  error  is 
permitted  in  playing  out  of  a  deep,  grassy 
lie,  where  inaccurate  hitting  would  result 
in  getting  too  much  under  the  ball,  while 
the  short  face  enables  the  head  to  better  deal 
with  a  poor  lie.  The  pattern  known  as  the 
Taylor  model  possesses,  probably,  the  best 
all-round  merits. 

The  mashie  is  usually  laid  back  a  trifle 
more  than  the  iron,  and,  as  a  sequence,  the 
ball  is  pitched  much  higher,  with  relatively 
less  run.  It  is  not  advisable  to  have  too  much 
loft  on  the  face,  as  this  calls  for  a  more  delicate 
nicety  of  hitting.  The  shaft  is  not  so  long  as 
the  iron,  which,  in  turn,  is  generally  a  trifle 
shorter  than  the  cleek.  And  it  is  all  the  bet- 
ter for  being  stiff.  Avoid,  above  all  things,  a 
whippy  shaft  on  a  mashie,  or,  for  that  matter, 
on  any  iron  club.  The  only  object  of  a  whippy 
shaft  is  to  secure  a  somewhat  longer  ball. 
128 


CLUB      SHAFTS 

There  is  no  excuse  for  such  on  a  mashie. 
If  distance  is  desired  use  an  iron,  when  the 
shot  is  one  that  demands  a  longer  ball  than 
can  be  comfortably  played  with  the  weaker 
club. 

Touching  putters,  their  name  is  legion.  We 
have  the  wooden  putter  with  a  long,  straight 
face,  and  putters  made  of  various  metals, 
putters  of  all  conceivable  shapes  and  sizes  and 
degrees  of  loft,  some  even  with  an  in- 
verse loft,  that  is,  with  the  face  hanging  in 
towards  the  ball.  They  all  have  merit,  in 
some  degree,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  good  work 
accomplished  in  the  hands  of  different  players. 
Sentiment  counts  for  a  great  deal.  Let  a  man 
take  a  fancy  to  any  one  of  the  various  kinds 
on  the  market — that's  the  putter  for  him.  It's 
a  very  good  thing  to  have  decided  views  re- 
garding the  style  of  putter  you  feel  will  suit 
you.  Sad  and  unfortunate,  however,  will  be 
the  lot  of  the  beginner  who  does  not  know 
what  he  wants,  and  who  first  leans  to  a  goose- 
neck because  A  uses  one,  only  to  be  captivated, 
although  distrustfully,  with  a  straight-faced 
club  because  B  has  one,  to  be  hesitatingly 
rejected  in  favor  of  a  putting  cleek  for  a  similar 
reason,  and  who  winds  up,  generally  in  sheer 
desperation,  with  some  new  idea  that  is  sup- 
I  129 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

posed  to  embody  all  the  good  qualities  of  all 
three,  but  which  is  found  after  a  little  while 
to  perform  all  sorts  of  vagaries,  due,  almost 
entirely,  to  the  player's  lack  of  confidence 
iri  the  club — and  himself.  The  better  plan, 
teally,  is  to  take  out  three  or  four  different 
kinds  of  weapons  and  ascertain  in  a  practical 
way,  by  experimenting,  which  accomplishes 
the  best  work.  It  will  simmer  down  to  one  or 
two.  If  one  only,  so  much  the  better;  stick 
to  that  club  and  don't  change  it.  If  the  choice 
resolves  itself  into  two,  get  both,  and  con- 
tinue to  use  them  alternately  until  you  are 
satisfied  which  is  the  better  under  all  sorts  of 
conditions.  You  may  possibly  find  that  one 
is  better  adapted  for  keener  greens,  while 
the  other  is  more  suitable  for  rougher  and 
slower  greens.  In  such  case  it  is  not  a  bad 
plan  to  make  a  practice  of  carrying  both,  so 
that  if  you  should  happen  to  go  off  with  the 
one  you  have  the  other  to  fall  back  upon. 
On  the  whole,  however,  it  is  much  better  to  pin 
your  faith  to  a  single  putter  and  to  change 
the  character  of  the  stroke  to  suit  the  varying 
conditions  of  the  greens. 

As  a  general  principle  it  may  be  stated  that 
a  putting-cleek  is  the  more  useful  on  a  very 
keen  green,  while  the  straight-faced  putter  is 

130 


CLUB      SHAFTS 

perhaps  better  on  a  slower  one.  The  more 
loft  there  is  on  the  face  the  harder  may  the 
ball  be  hit,  in  comparison  with  one  which 
is  straight-faced. 

The  shaft  should  be  stiff,  otherwise  the 
slightest  degree  of  extra  strength  applied  to 
the  stroke  will  cause  the  ball  to  go  careering 
away  past  the  hole.  And  it  is  the  better  for 
being  comparatively  short.  The  lie  of  the  head, 
to  adapt  itself  to  a  short  shaft,  should  be  more 
upright. 

I    have    treated    severally    of    the    driver, 

brassey,  cleek,  mid-iron,    mashie,  and  putter, 

which  have  been  referred  to  as  necessa- 

^ciuba    rY  f°r  the  proper  playing  of  the  game. 

Quite  frequently,  however,  good  players 

carry  one  or  two  additional  clubs  as  a  regular 

part  of  their  equipment,  so  as  to  bridge  over  the 

shades  of  difference  existing  between  a  brassey 

and  a  cleek,  a  cleek  and  an  iron,  and  an  iron  and 

a  mashie;    thus  making  the  playing  of  such 

hybrid  strokes  more  easy  of  accomplishment. 

Very  often  shots  of  this  kind  are  met  with. 

You  may  be  just  that  distance  away  from  the 

hole  that  a  full  stroke  with  a  brassey  would 

carry  you  beyond,   while  a  full  cleek  would 

be  a  bit  short.     Now  in  order  to  get  the  exact 

distance  desired  you  have  either  to  let  up  a 

131 


PR  A  C  T  I  C  A  L      GOLF 

trifle  with  the  one  club  or  let  into  it  a  little  more 
—  press,  in  short  —  with  the  other.  The  thing 
can  be  done,  of  course,  but  there  is  always 
an  attendant  risk  of  failure.  To  meet  such 
exigencies  a  spoon  is  used.  This  is  simply 
a  brassey  with  the  face  laid  back  more  than 
usual,  and  with  the  shaft  a  little  shorter. 

Likewise  there  is  a  niche  between  the  iron 
and  the  mashie,  especially  where  you  are  called 
upon  to  carry  a  hazard  close  up  to  the  green 
and  with  some  possible  trouble  beyond.  To 
negotiate  such  a  shot  successfully  it  is  neces- 
sary either  to  put  cut  on  the  ball  if  an  iron  is 
used,  or  to  play  a  full  mashie  shot  without 
sparing  it.  This  is  just  where  the  jigger  fits 
in  nicely.  The  head  is  a  cross  between  the 
iron  and  the  mashie.  The  blade  is  not  quite  so 
long  as  the  iron,  is  narrower,  and  more  laid 
back  in  the  face,  and  is  weighted  more  tow- 
ards the  sole.  The  shot  off  it  is  principally  all 
carry. 

Excepting  the  driver,  the  mashie,  and  the 

putter,  I  consider  that  every  other  club  should 

be  played  at  about  its  maximum  value, 

Three-    by  means  of  an  easy,  full  shot,  without 


any  attempt  at  forcing  the  stroke  on 
the  one  hand  or  sparing  it  on  the  other. 
The  necessary  gradations  of  distance  with  each 

132 


CLUB      SHAFTS 

particular  club,  however,  may  very  easily  be 
controlled  by  the  extent  to  which  it  is  taken 
back — not  by  seeking  to  accelerate  or  diminish 
the  speed  of  the  stroke.  In  other  words,  I  be- 
lieve in  dispensing,  so  far  as  possible,  with 
three  -  quarter  shots  or  half  shots,  excepting 
with  the  mashie. 

In  addition  to  the  several  clubs  me'ntioned, 
a  driving-iron,  or  driving-mashie,  or  mashie- 
cleek,  will  be  found  very  useful,  especially  for 
tee  shots,  or  playing  through  the  green  against 
a  strong  head  wind. 

It  would  hardly  be  proper  to  conclude  this 
chapter  without  reference  to  the  niblick,  al- 
though most  good  players  rarely  car- 
Nibiick  ry  one,  except  in  an  important  match, 
using  a  mashie  instead.  There  is  no 
doubt,  however,  that  for  getting  out  of  bunkers 
or  trouble  of  any  serious  kind  the  niblick  is 
unquestionably  the  better  club.  It  should  be 
heavy  and  the  shaft  stiff.  The  head  should 
be  very  small  and  well  weighted  towards  the 
sole,  and  with  a  generous  amount  of  loft  on 
the  face. 

Apropos  of  iron  clubs  generally,  it  is  not  a 

bad  plan,  if  the  shaft  shrinks  and  gets  loose 

in  the  hose  or  socket,  or  when  putting  in  a  new 

shaft,   to  glue  it  in.     You  will  rarely,  then, 

133 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

be  troubled  with  loose  heads,  and  the  risk  of 
breakage  will  also  be  minimized. 

BALLS 

There  is  not  much  of  value  to  be  said  on  this 
subject,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the  large 
majority  of  the  various  makes  on  the  market 
are  about  on  a  par,  in  so  far  as  the  gutta-percha 
article  is  concerned.  The  essential  qualities 
of  a  really  good  ball  are  that  it  should  possess 
resiliency  and  be  sufficiently  hard  to  retain 
its  shape.  The  first  requisite,  that  of  resiliency, 
is  best  secured  by  using  pure  gutta-percha, 
while  proper  seasoning  will  take  care  of  the 
rest. 

Generally  speaking,  if  a  ball  stotts  or  bounces 
well  it  will  fly  well,  the  carry  being  percepti- 
bly longer  than  with  one  that  is  not 

Bans  so  responsive.  If  it  floats,  so  much  the 
better.  The  three  leading  patterns  of 
moulding  are  the  Silvertown,  Musselburgh, 
and  Agrippa.  There  is  practically  no  differ- 
ence in  regard  to  the  flight  if  the  markings 
are  clear  cut  and  well  defined;  it  resolves 
itself  into  a  question  of  personal  choice.  When 
a  ball  ducks  or  does  not  have  any  well-sus- 
tained flight  it  will  usually  be  found  that  the 

134 


CLUB      SHAFTS 


FEATHER    BALL 


imprint  of  the  mould  is  not  deep  enough  or  is 
too  thickly  covered  with  paint.  Occasionally, 
also,  the  erratic  flight 
may  be  due  to  the 
presence  of  an  air- 
bubble  inside  the  ball, 
and  when  such  is  the 
case  the  ball  is  very 
liable  to  crack. 

After  a  ball  is  first 
made  it  should  be 
stored  away  in  a  cool, 
dry  place  to  season  for 
about  six  months  be- 
fore being  painted,  otherwise  it  will  soon  lose 
its  shape  and  be  very  sensitive  to  rough  usage. 

If  the  paint  is  applied 
too  soon  it  interferes 
with  the  oxidization  of 
the  material  through 
the  closing  of  the 
pores,  and  the  surface 
will  remain  compara- 
tively soft  for  some 
time.  Usually  all  this 
has  been  attended  to 
in  the  case  of  new  balls  offered,  but  in  having 
them  remade  it  is  well  to  bear  this  in  mind. 

135 


HAND-HAMMERED   BALL 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 


OLD  GUTTA-PERCHA  BALL 


A  new  ball  should  be  from  nine  to  twelve 
months  old  before  being  used.  After  a  couple 
of  years  it  deteriorates 
in  resiliency  and  be- 
comes too  hard.  If 
the  paint  chips  off,  as 
it  sometimes  does,  es- 
pecially with  a  well- 
matured  ball,  it  may 
be  rejuvenated  by  dip- 
ping the  ball  in  fairly 
hot  water  for  a  little 
while,  taking  care  not  to  allow  the  gutta  to 
become  too  soft.  A  ball  so  treated  should  not 

be  played  with  at  once. 
The  large  majority 
of  balls  sold  are  27! 
size,  with  a  few  2y's 
and  fewer  28's.  The 
size,  like  the  marking, 
is  a  matter  of  indi- 
vidual preference.  I 
rather  favor  the  small- 
er size,  and  remade  at 

MODERN  BALL  that'        If    YOU    h^VC     a 

good  ball  to  start  with 

it  is  rather  improved  in  remaking.     Less  ef- 
fort is  required  to  drive  the  smaller  ball,  while 

136 


CLUB      SHAFTS 

the  only  disadvantages  which  attach  to  it  are 
that  it  is  a  trifle  more  easily  affected  by  the 
wind,  and,  some  contend,  is  harder  to  play  out 
of  a  poor  lie,  as  there  is  not  so  much  availa- 
ble hitting  surface. 

There  you  are,  "you  pays  your  money  and 
you  takes  your  choice/' 

Quite  a  number  of  balls  will  be  collected 
which  are  perfectly  good,  except  that  the  paint 
has  been  knocked  off  or  otherwise  af- 
infTBan's  fected.  They  need  only  repainting  to 
be  practically  as  good  as  new.  First, 
it  is  necessary  to  let  them  stand  in  a  bath 
made  of  a  solution  of  caustic  potash,  or  lye,  to 
remove  the  old  paint.  About  one-third  of  the 
ordinary  can  mixed  with  half  a  bucketful  of 
water  will  suffice  for  about  a  couple  of  dozen 
balls.  If  the  paint  is  obdurate  apply  a  little 
more  potash  or  put  on  a  pair  of  rubber  gloves 
and  take  an  old  brush  and  thoroughly  remove 
all  traces  of  the  paint  from  the  markings. 
Before  applying  the  first  coat  of  new  paint  see 
that  the  ball  is  thoroughly  dry.  Be  careful 
also  to  let  each  coat  of  paint  thoroughly  dry 
before  putting  on  the  next.  From  three  to 
four  coats  are  required,  each  as  thin  as  pos- 
sible. The  first  coat  should  fill  in  all  the 
interstices.  The  paint  may  easily  be  applied 
137 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

by  rolling  the  ball  well  in  the  palms  of  the 
hands. 

Very  many  substitutes  have  been  tried  in 
place  of  gutta-percha,  with  more  or  less  success, 

New  but  the  gutta  ball  more  than  holds  its 
Kinds  of  own  so  far.  There  are  two  substitutes 
recently  brought  out  which  possess  cer- 
tain merits,  and  are  deserving  of  a  few  words. 
Let  us  take  the  "Haskell"  first.  This  con- 
sists of  a  small  core  of  gutta-percha,  around 
which,  while  still  in  a  plastic  state,  is  tightly 
wound  a  thread  of  pure  rubber,  and  is  then 
encased  in  a  thin  shell  of  gutta  about  one-six- 
teenth of  an  inch  thick,  making  the  size  about 
that  of  an  ordinary  27^  ball,  and  of  corre- 
spondingly equivalent  weight.  The  essential 
quality  of  this  ball  is  its  extreme  resiliency. 
It  flies  quickly  off  the  club  with  a  soft,  put- 
ty sort  of  feel  and  without  the  sharp  click  of 
the  gutta.  The  short  driver  can  undoubtedly 
obtain  greater  distance  with  it,  but  I  do  not 
find  that  the  long  driver  gets  any  additional 
length.  This  anomaly  may  be  accounted  for 
on  the  theory  that  distance  is  secured  and  reg- 
ulated by  the  speed  at  which  the  club  head 
is  travelling  at  the  moment  of  impact.  With 
a  gutta  the  greater  the  velocity  of  the  head  the 
longer  the  ball.  The  extent  to  which  the  ball 

138 


CLUB      SHAFTS 

flattens  itself  against  the  head  is  governed  by 
the  speed  of  the  stroke,  and  distance  is  there- 
by determined.  With  a  very  rapid  swing  the 
force  or  energy  stored  up  in  the  gutta  ball  is 
greater  than  in  the  Haskell.  The  latter,  by 
reason  of  its  greater  comparative  resiliency, 
does  not  remain  in  contact  with  the  club  head 
quite  so  long,  and  therefore  does  not  receive 
the  full  benefit  of  the  greater  velocity  of  the 
stroke  in  the  same  proportion  as  the  less  resil- 
ient gutta.  It  flies  off  the  face  too  quickly  to 
get  the  full  measure  of  energy  imparted  by 
a  very  swift  stroke.  This  responsiveness  or 
resiliency,  however,  asserts  itself  in  a  greater 
and  more  compensating  degree  in  the  case  of 
the  shorter  driver.  It  makes  up,  in  his  case, 
for  the  lack  of  speed,  and  he  finds  his  distance 
very  sensibly  increased. 

In  approaching  and  putting  its  greater 
liveliness  makes  it  harder  to  control  than 
the  ordinary  ball.  It  is  almost  impossible 
to  stop  it  dead,  no  matter  how  much  cut  is 
applied,  and  with  a  green  well  guarded  the 
user  will  find  himself  very  seriously  handi- 
capped. Objections  also  lie  against  it  in 
putting,  especially  on  a  keen  green,  as  it  re- 
sponds so  readily  to  the  slightest  tap,  and, 
consequently,  calls  for  greater  delicacy  in 

139 


PR' A  C  T  I  C  A  L       GOLF 

respect  to  the  stroke.  Its  cost  is  about  fifty 
per  cent,  more  than  the  ordinary  ball,  and  it 
cannot  be  remade  to  advantage.  * 

The  "Maponite"  is  the  antithesis  of  the 
"Haskell."  No  gutta  enters  into  its  compo- 
sition, the  leading  constituents,  I  understand, 
being  glycerine  and  cork.  It  is  subjected  to 
very  great  pressure  in  moulding,  and  is  very 
hard,  and  stands  any  amount  of  rough  usage 
without  being  materially  affected.  It  is  mark- 
edly lacking  in  resiliency.  Its  carry  is  not  so 
great  as  the  gutta,  but  the  run  is  slightly 
longer.  The  difference  in  length  is  some- 
what in  favor  of  the  latter.  It  goes  off  the 
club  with  an  unsympathetic  sound  and  feel. 
It  is  not  affected  much  by  the  wind,  nor  is  it 
so  easily  influenced  by  a  slice  or  a  pull  On 
the  putting-green  it  requires  to  be  hit  much 
harder  than  the  ordinary  ball,  which  is  per- 
haps a  strong  point  in  its  favor.  Its  cost  is 
less  than  one -half  of  that  of  the  ordinary 
ball.  It  cannot  be  remade  at  all. 

*  See  additional  chapter,  page    192. 


XI 

CADDIES 

A  GOOD  caddie  is  of  material  aid  to  the 
player.  We  have  not  been  playing  sufficiently 
long  in  this  country  to  have  developed  the  real 
article  indigenous  to  the  famous  Scottish  links, 
where  the  caddie  grows  up  with  the  player, 
very  often  plays  a  really  good  game  himself, 
and  has,  by  virtue  of  years  of  experience,  not 
only  a  full  knowledge  of  the  game,  but  also 
knows  pretty  thoroughly  the  exact  limitations 
of  his  employer's  game.  And  it  is  doubtful 
whether  we  shall  ever  be  able  to  raise  a  crop 
of  this  kind.  As  golf  continues  to  be  played,  so 
will  the  standard  of  our  present  corps  of  cad- 
dies be  raised  somewhat.  But  it  is  well  to  re- 
member that,  as  a  general  rule,  the  player  has 
a  great  deal  to  do  in  the  making  of  a  good  cad- 
die, and  until  players,  as  a  body,  apply  them- 
selves to  the  proper  education  of  the  boys,  there 
is  little  hope  for  any  general  improvement. 

141 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

As  between  a  good  caddie  and  a  poor  one, 
it  is  better  to  have  none  at  all.  The  poor  one 
is  never  up  with  the  player,  but  lags  behind 
chronically,  not  realizing  that  he  has  the  same 
number  of  steps  to  take  anyway;  has  either 


A    TYPICAL    CADDIE 

a  much-imposed-upon  expression,  or  else  one 
of  profound  indifference  to  the  game  or  any- 
thing relating  to  it;  will  insist  upon  getting 
142 


CADDIES 

back  of  your  ball  when  you  are  making  a 
stroke,  even  going  out  of  his  way  to  do  it; 
delights  apparently  in  rattling  clubs  or  some- 
thing or  other,  or  in  moving  or  talking  when 
you  are  putting;  always  requires  to  be  told 
to  remove  the  flag;  never  can  tell  the  distance 
of  any  hole,  in  whole  or  in  part;  invariably 
hands  you  the  wrong  club;  never,  or  very 
rarely,  pretends  to  look  where  your  ball  goes; 
has  a  peculiar  faculty  of  never  being  able  to 
find  a  lost  ball ;  never  knows  how  many  strokes 
you,  or  your  opponent,  have  played  at  any 
hole;  neither  knows  nor  cares  whether  you 
are  two  up  or  three  down ;  will  insist  on  stand- 
ing close  up  to  the  hole  when  the  ground  is 
very  moist  —  sometimes,  be  it  said  in  favor 
of  the  boy,  in  obedience  to  the  player — and 
thereby  making  the  hole  akin  to  one  of  those 
impossible,  in -door,  practice  -  putting  holes — 
inverted  saucers  with  a  hole  in — and  adding 
largely  to  the  profane  vocabulary  of  the  most 
piously  inclined ;  keeps  the  pin  in  the  hole  and 
allows  the  ball  to  strike  it  and  lay  dead — always 
when  your  opponent  is  putting ;  runs,  actually 
runs — of  course,  the  only  time  he  shouldn't— 
on  a  very  soft  putting  green;  loses,  or — new 
balls  from  the  ball-pocket  of  your  bag;  sticks 
the  point  of  the  hole-marker  in  the  ground 
143 


PR  A  C  T  I C  A  L      GOLF 

on  the  green;  fails  to  properly  set  it  in  the 
hole,  thereby  breaking  the  sides;  talks  about 
his  achievements  at  baseball  or  how  he  is 
saving  up  his  money  to  buy  a  bicycle  or  some- 
thing; runs  off  after  butterflies  or  apples; 
tells  you  all  about  the  wonderful  shots  A 
brought  off  the  day  before;  hasn't  the  faint- 
est idea  of  how  to  make  a  tee;  never  takes  your 
ball  out  of  the  hole;  never  thinks  of  cleaning 
it — in  short,  he  does  every  conceivable  thing 
which  he  should  not  do,  and  leaves  undone 
everything  which  he  should  do. 

The  majority  of  boys  employed  as  carriers 
of  clubs  are  guilty,  more  or  less  unconsciously, 
of  many  of  the  faults  referred  to.  And,  after 
all,  the  boys  themselves  are  not  wholly  at 
fault,  as  they  have  never  been  properly  and 
systematically  educated  as  to  their  legitimate 
duties.  Certainly  the  individual  player  cannot 
be  expected  to  undertake  the  job.  The  best 
plan,  perhaps,  would  be  for  each  club  to  draw 
up  a  summary  of  the  qualifications  of  a  good 
caddie  and  post  it  up  where  the  boys  may  read 
it — and  have  the  caddie-master  or  the  profes- 
sional expound  it  in  detail  and  read  the  Riot 
Act  to  known  offenders. 


XII 

THE     CONSTRUCTION    AND 
UPKEEP    OF    COURSES 

THERE  are  comparatively  few  golf-links 
in  this  country,  in  the  true  sense  of  the  term, 
while  there  are  hundreds  of  courses.  Most 
links  are  situated  close  to  the  sea,  and  the 
nearer  they  are  to  the  level  of  the  sea  the  bet- 
ter they  are.  The  genuine  article  has  a  sub- 
stratum of  sand,  or  sand  and  gravel,  with  an 
alluvial  deposit  of  loam  on  the  surface  of 
varying  depths.  There  are  a  few  inland  which 
possess  these  characteristics,  but  the  majority 
lack  the  essential  elements  of  sandy  bottoms, 
and  are  more  properly  described  as  courses. 

On  the  true  and  relatively  rare  links,  where 
sand  enters  largely  into  the  composition  of  the 
soil,  the  grass  is  naturally  of  a  finer  and  less  lux- 
uriant nature  than  on  the  richer  and  more  fertile 
inland  soils,  and  much  better  greens  are  found. 

It  is,  of  course,  not  always  practicable  to  es- 
K  145 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

tablish  a  golf-course  on  the  best  ground  adapt- 
able for  the  proper  playing  of  the  game, 
irrespective  of  the  desired  quality  of  the  soil, 
and  many  regrettable  mistakes  have  been 
made  in  this  direction  and  a  great  deal  of 
expense  incurred  in  the  formation  of  courses 
which  are  but  sorry  imitations  of  what  they 
should  be.  Many  of  them  combine  a  max- 
imum of  mountain-climbing  with  a  minimum 
of  golf,  while  more  are  spoiled  through  being 
improperly  laid  out  in  respect  to  the  distances 
of  the  holes  or  the  disposition  of  the  hazards. 
Of  course  this  has  been  largely  inevitable 
owing  to  the  remarkably  rapid  spread  of  the 
game,  and  the  lack  of  knowledge  or  inex- 
perience of  players,  or  those  having  the  matter 
in  charge.  With  the  growing  improvement 
in  play,  however,  it  is  gratifying  to  observe  a 
more  general  desire  to  bring  the  courses  up  to 
a  better  standard  in  every  way.  Probably  the 
best  courses  in  this  country  are  Garden 

Some 

Good  City,  Wheaton,  Atlantic  City,  Morris 
County,  Newport,  Nassau,  Apawamis, 
Midlothian,  and  Myopia,  while  for  a  nine-hole 
course  Meadowbrook  is  easily  first,  with  West- 
brook  and  Oakland  good  seconds.  The  eigh- 
teen-hole  course  of  the  Ekwanok  Country  Club 
of  Manchester,  Vermont,  laid  out  last  season, 

146 


COURSES 

also  has  promise  of  being  a  really  good  one  in 
time.  Apart  from  soil  characteristics,  all  of  the 
courses  mentioned  lend  themselves  favorably  to 
beregarded  as  being  pre-eminent  by  reason  of  the 
contour  of  the  ground,  the  distances  of  the  holes, 
and  the  matter  of  hazards,  natural  and  artificial. 

A  perfectly  flat  expanse  of  ground,  quite 
apart  from  the  varying  distances  of  the  holes,  is 
not  nearly  so  good  as  one  with  gentle  undula- 
tions, affording  diversity  of  play,  and  present- 
ing new  and  interesting  problems  at  each  hole. 
On  the  other  hand,  a  very  hilly  course  is  open 
to  objection  on  account  of  the  physical  fatigue 
involved,  there  being  more  exercise  required 
than  is  commensurate  with  the  mere  playing 
of  the  game  itself.  Mountain-climbing  is  one 
thing  and  golf  is  distinctly  another.  It  is 
never  enduringly  satisfactory  to  attempt  to 
combine  both. 

In  laying  out  or  making  changes  in  a  course 

it  is  highly  desirable  that  the  distances  should 

Laying    ^e  sucn  as  to  reward  good  play  and  not 

Out      put  a  premium  on  poor  play.     Consid- 
eration of  distance  should  go  hand-in- 
hand  with  the  consideration  of  hazards.  *  It  is 
quite  possible  to  have  a  very  good  course  so 
laid  out  in  respect  to  distances  as  to  be  entirely 

*  See  additional  chapter  on  Hazards,  page  181. 
147 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

free  from  hazards  of  any  kind,  where  each  shot, 
perfectly  played,  would  carry  its  own  reward. 
On  a  single-shot  hole  the  good  player  would 
be  on  the  green  in  one,  while  on  holes  calling 
for  two  or  three  strokes,  properly  executed, 
to  reach  the  green  the  distances  should  be  on 
the  basis  of  from  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  yards  to  one  hundred  and  ninety  yards, 
or  the  multiple  thereof,  so  that  no  opportunity 
would  be  afforded  a  player  flubbing  a  stroke 
to  make  it  up  on  the  next. 

A  course,  however,  laid  out  on  these  lines 
would  be  lacking  in  interest,  as  all  first-class 
players  occasionally  make  mistakes,  and  those 
mistakes  should  carry  a  penalty  of  some  kind. 
Distance  alone  is  not  the  essence  of  the  game. 
Then,  too,  the  moral  effect  of  a  hazard  ought 
to  be  considered.  It  is  a  very  potent  element. 

As  furnishing  a  really  good  test  of  golf,  my 
idea  of  distances,  based  on  fairly  level 
^oir"1  stretches  and  eliminating  wind  influ- 
ences, and  with  the  hazards  scientifi- 
cally arranged,  is  somewhat  as  follows : 

Out 340  310  490  150  320  360  190  510  300—2970 

Par  Play 4       4       5       3       4       4       3       5       4—36 

In 115  400  350  500  270  330  370  470  315—3120 

Par 3       4       4       5       4       4       4       5       4~     37 

Total  distance,  6090  yards.         Par  play,  73  strokes. 

148 


CO  U  R  S  E  S 

Now  these  distances  have  not  been  arrived 
at  in  a  haphazard  way,  but  have  been  defi- 
nitely determined  upon  so  as  to  call  into  req- 
uisition during  the  round  every  club  in  the 
bag,  provided  each  shot  has  been  well  exe- 
cuted, and  so  bring  out  all  the  well-rounded 
qualities  of  the  first-class  player.  Let  us  an- 
alyze each  hole — play  such  imaginary  round, 
as  it  should  be  played,  when  every  shot  comes 
off  ideally  right — and  see  if  it  comes  up  to  the 
proper  standard.  We  will  assume  that  we 
can  drive  from  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
to  two  hundred  and  ten  yards ;  brassey,  one- 
hundred  and  seventy  to  one  hundred  and  ninety 
yards;  get  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  one 
hundred  and  eighty  yards  with  cleek  or  driving- 
mashie;  one  hundred  and  twenty  to  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  yards  with  a  mid-iron,  and 
lesser  distances  with  a  mashie.  There  is 
nothing  extravagant  in  these  distances,  with 
class  players. 

At  the  first  hole  (three  hundred  and  forty 
yards)  we  find  confronting  us  a  bunker  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  yards  from  the  tee, 
with  hazards  beyond  on  either  side  to  catch 
a  sliced  or  pulled  ball.  We  get  over  the  bunker 
safely  with  some  fifty  or  sixty  yards  to  spare. 
Some  eighty  yards  from  the  green  is  a  sand 

149 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

ditch.  A  cleek  shot  will  carry  this  and  land 
us  comfortably  on  the  green,  without  over- 
running .into  the  long  grass  on  the  other  side. 
The  regulation  two  putts  and  we  are  down  in 
a  par  four. 

On  the  second  hole  (three  hundred  and  ten 
yards)  all  is  plain  sailing  on  the  drive,  except 
for  the  omnipresent  long  grass  on  either  side 
of  the  fair  green,  and  which  is  a  feature  of 
nearly  every  hole  on  the  course.  Some  sixty 
yards  from  the  green  is  another  wide  sand 
ditch,  with  the  same  rough  going  the  far  side 
of  the  green  that  will  be  found  on  nearly  every 
hole.  An  ordinary  iron  shot  should  easily 
enable  us  to  get  the  green. 

Third  hole  (four  hundred  and  ninety  yards). 
Some  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  from  the 
tee  a  road  has  to  be  carried  on  the  second  shot, 
otherwise  there  is  no  trouble.  A  drive,  brassey 
and  iron  will  land  us  on  the  green  in  three 
strokes. 

Fourth  hole  (one  hundred  and  fifty  yards). 
A  full  iron  ought  to  land  us  on  the  green  and 
escape  the  bunker  one  hundred  and  fifteen 
yards  from  the  tee. 

Fifth  hole  (three  hundred  and  twenty  yards). 
Another  drive  and  iron.  The  only  features 
of  this  hole  are  long  grass  one  hundred  yards 

150 


CO  U  R  S  E  S 

from  the  tee,  and  a  sand  ditch  thirty-five  yards 
or  so  beyond  the  hole. 

Sixth  hole  (three  hundred  and  sixty  yards). 
Another  road  crosses  the  line  of  play  two 
hundred  and  eighty  yards  from  the  tee.  Two 
good  shots  should  reach  the  green. 

Seventh  hole  (one  hundred  and  ninety 
yards).  There  is  nothing  at  all  to  interfere 
with  a  good  drive  here,  and  the  long  player 
will  get  home  without  any  special  effort. 

Eighth  hole  (five  hundred  and  ten  yards). 
Fifty  yards  from  the  green  is  a  wide  sand  ditch, 
which  may  easily  be  carried  with  an  iron,  or 
cleek,  if  the  drive  and  brassey  have  not  been 
particularly  long. 

Ninth  hole  (three  hundred  yards).  A  road 
one  hundred  and  forty-five  yards  off,  with 
broken  ground  intervening,  abounding  in 
poor  lies,  makes  a  good  drive  necessary.  No 
other  hazards. 

Tenth  hole  (one  hundred  and  fifteen  yards). 
A  pond  stretches  from  the  foot  of  the  tee  some 
eighty  yards  across  to  the  green,  which  is 
fully  guarded  by  wide  sand  ditches  at  the  back 
arid  sides.  A  full  mashie  should  land  close 
up  to  the  hole. 

Eleventh  hole  (four  hundred  yards).  Here 
is  where  the  very  long  player  should  meet 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

with  due  reward  if  he  gets  off  two  screamers. 
The  bunker,  three  hundred  and  twenty  yards 
from  the  tee,  ought  not  to  have  any  terrors  for 
him  or  for  the  ordinary  good  player. 

Twelfth  hole  (three  hundred  and  fifty  yards). 
This  will  be  played  the  same  as  the  first  hole, 
excepting  that  the  going  is  free  from  hazards 
—save  the  long  grass  beyond  the  green  to 
catch  an  over-play. 

Thirteenth  hole  (five  hundred  yards).  One 
hundred  and  forty  yards  from  the  tee  a  bunker 
has  to  be  carried. 

Fourteenth  hole  (two  hundred  and  seventy 
yards).  From  the  tee  to  the  fair  green,  one 
hundred  and  thirty  yards  away,  the  grass 
has  been  left  uncut.  The  green  is  surrounded 
with  bunkers  some  thirty  yards  equidistant 
from  the  hole,  necessitating  a  high  lofted  ap- 
proach with  cut  to  hold  the  green. 

Fifteenth  hole  (three  hundred  and  thirty 
yards).  Very  sandy  soil,  with  indifferent  lies, 
marks  the  going  for  some  one  hundred  yards 
until  a  slight  depression  is  reached  where  the 
lies  are  excellent  for  another  one  hundred 
and  twenty  yards.  Thenceforward,  until  about 
eighty  yards  from  the  green  (which  is  in  an- 
other slight  depression)  poor  lies  are  the  rule. 

Sixteenth  hole  (three  hundred  and  seventy 
152 


COURSES 

yards).  A  brook  has  to  be  crossed  on  the 
second  shot,  some  two  hundred  and  ninety 
yards  from  the  tee. 

Seventeenth  hole  (four  hundred  and  seventy 
yards).  Two  hundred  and  forty  yards  from 
the  tee  is  a  wide  sand  ditch.  The  green  is  on 
a  plateau  of  about  forty  yards  square,  dipping 
down  slightly  on  all  sides. 

Eighteenth  hole  (three  hundred  and  fifteen 
yards).  One  hundred  and  ten  yards  away 
is  a  ravine  about  thirty  yards  across,  with  an- 
other eighty  yards  beyond  the  hole. 

Such  is  a  brief  sketch  of  a  course  that  ought 
to  bring  out  all  the  good  golf  there  is  in  a  man 
to  do  it  in  a  decent  score.  An  endeavor  has  been 
made  to  arrange  the  distances  and  likewise  the 
hazards  so  that  it  is  practically  impossible  to 
get  off  a  poor  shot  and  make  a  recovery  on  the 
next,  save  by  some  phenomenal  stroke. 

The  large  majority  of  courses  have  too  many 
levelling  holes,  of  from  two  hundred  and  twenty 
to  two  hundred  and  sixty  yards,  and 
W^h  the  hazards  so  arranged  that  a 
player  may  top  a  drive  and  yet  get  the 
green  on  the  next  shot  by  simply  taking  a  full 
stroke  with  some  club,  in  the  same  number  of 
strokes  as  the  man  who  has  played  the  hole 
perfectly.  Or  the  hole  may  be  from  four  hun- 

153 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

dred  and  fifteen  to  four  hundred  and  thirty 
yards,  calling  for  three  strokes  to  get  home,  the 
first  or  second  of  which  may  be  topped  or  sliced 
or  pulled  without  any  loss,  it  being  compara- 
tively easy  to  reach  the  green  in  three,  while 
the  better  player,  making  each  stroke  per- 
fectly, cannot  do  better  than  expend  the  same 
number  of  strokes.  The  true  remedy  is  to  so 

apportion  the  distances  as  to  demand 
Distances  the  playing  of  one,  two,  or  three  perfect 

strokes,  as  the  case  may  be — or  when 
this  is  not  practicable  to  so  arrange  the  hazards 
as  to  catch  a  poorly  played  stroke.  In  respect 
to  distances,  a  single-stroke  hole  may  be  any- 
where from  one  hundred  yards  up  to  two  hun- 
dred —  two  hundred  being  the  maximum,  as 
anything  beyond  that  is  scarcely  within  the 
compass  of  any  but  the  extraordinarily  long 
driver.  Coming  now  to  holes  of  greater  length, 
it  is  advisable  to  proceed  upon  some  proper 
basis.  Anything  between  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  and  one  hundred  and  ninety  yards 
may  be  taken  as  a  fair  mean,  the  lesser  dis- 
tance being  accepted  as  a  fixed  minimum. 
Thus  we  have  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
or  the  multiple  of  three  hundred  yards  for  a 
two-stroke  hole,  or  four  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  for  a  three  -  stroke  hole,  on  the  one 

154 


COURSES 

hand,  with  one  hundred  and  ninety,  three 
hundred  and  eighty,  or  five  hundred  and  sev- 
enty yards  on  the  other.  Anything  within 
these  limits  of  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to 
one  hundred  and  ninety  yards,  forming  the 
basis,  may  be  accepted  as  furnishing  little 
room  for  recovery  without  penalty  in  case  of  a 
poor  stroke,  while  anything  outside  of  the  lim- 
its mentioned  tends  rather  to  pull  the  better 
player  down  to  the  level  of  rthe  poorer  one. 
Somewhere  between  one  hundred  and  fifty 
and  one  hundred  and  ninety  cannot  be  far 
wrong.  Take  the  mean  of  one  hundred  and 
seventy  yards,  or  the  multiple  of  three  hundred 
and  forty  yards,  for  instance;  it  is  obvious 
that  the  player  cannot  hope  to  reach  the  green 
on  his  second  shot  when  he  has  failed  to  get 
off  a  fairly  respectable  drive.  To  do  so  he 
must  make  an  exceedingly  long  second.  And 
unless  he  can  rise  to  the  occasion  by  perform- 
ing such  an  exceptionally  brilliant  stroke  it  is 
only  fair  and  proper  that  the  poor  drive  should 
be  meted  with  some  penalty. 

It  may  be  contended  that  a  course  such  as 
we  have  outlined  may  be  suited  for  first-class 
players,  but  that  the  large  majority  of  the 
players  in  nearly  every  club  fall  short  of  such 
excellence,  and  that  therefore  the  course  should 
155 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

be  laid  out  with  reference  to  the  majority,  who 
otherwise  would  be  spending  the  greater  part 
of  their  time  in  bunkers.  Not  at  all;  there  is 
no  such  need  to  prostitute  the  game.  Lay  out 
the  course  in  every  way  solely  with  regard  to 
its  being  fully  up  to  the  highest  standard  at 
Aiterna-  ^e  outset,  and  until  improvement  in 
tive  play  manifests  itself  construct  alterna- 
tive tees — two  or  three,  if  necessary,  for 
each  hole — so  as  to  make  it  possible  for  the 
weaker  players  to  better  negotiate  the  hazards. 
It  doesn't  involve  much  trouble  or  expense  to 
build  up  tees  and  provide  sand-boxes,  etc.,  for 
each,  while  it  means  both  time  and  money  to 
build  up  a  new  green.  The  alternative  tees 
spoken  of  may  be  so  arranged  as  to  shorten 
the  holes  from  twenty  to  fifty  yards,  or  what- 
ever distances  may  be  desired.  All  competitions, 
however,  should  be  played  over  the  full  length 
of  the  course.  Endeavor,  so  far  as  possible,  to 
avoid  constructing  artificial  tees.  Where  it  is 
necessary  to  do  so  try  and  get  them  as  large 
as  possible,  so  as  to  keep  them  in  good  repair 
by  constantly  changing  the  plates  or  teeing- 
marks.  Aim  to  have  all  built-up  tees  sodded. 
Anything  but  turf  tees  is  an  abomination. 
A  tee  should  have  almost  as  much  care  as  a 
green,  and  should  be  freely  watered  in  summer. 
156 


COURSES 

I  have  already  stated  that  the  distances 
of,  the  holes  referred  to  have  been  laid  out  on 
the  assumption  that  the  ground  is  fairly  level, 
and  also  without  any  regard  to  the  wind. 
The  majority  of  courses  are  not  level,  and  on 
some  the  wind  is  a  very  potent  factor.  Con- 
sequently, it  is  essential  that  these  elements 
should  be  carefully  considered,  according  to  the 
natural  contour  of  the  surface  and  the  pre- 
vailing winds  during  the  playing  season.  I 
say  during  the  playing  season,  as  very  few 
courses  in  this  country  can  be  played  over 
during  the  whole  year. 

No  bunker  on  a  first-class  course  should 
be  so  arranged  as  to  trap  a  good  drive,  or, 

following  a  good  tee  shot,  to  catch  a 
Bunkers  good  second  with  the  green  yet  some 

distance  away.  Bunkers  should  be 
arranged  with  the  primary  idea  of  penalizing 
poor  play  only.  Nor  should  they  be  made 
with  perpendicular  and  precipitous  faces  so 
as  to  make  it  almost  impossible  to  get  out 
in  one  stroke.  Instead  of  the  array  of  steep 
cops  with  narrow  ditches  which  disfigure  so 
many  courses,  aim  rather  to  make  the  cops 
more  semicircular  in  shape,  and  to  have  wider 
ditches  leading  up  to  them.  It  is  better,  also, 
if  possible,  to  cover  the  embankments  with 
157 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

sand  rather  than  to  have  them  turfed,  and 
to  likewise  fill  the  ditch  with  several  inches 
of  sand,  so  that  the  ball  should  be  played 
where  it  lies,  and  thus  avoid  the  necessity 
of  any  local  rule  providing  for  the  dropping 
in  the  bunker  or  ditch  of  a  ball  lodging  in  or 
on  the  face  of  the  turfed  creations.  All  arti- 
ficial hazards  should  be  made  of  or  liberally 
covered  with  sand. 

The  width  of  the  fair  green  should  be  about 
seventy-five  yards.  Particular  attention  should 
be  paid  to  the  places  where  good  shots 
^c!n!r*rf  snouW  g°>  saY  from  one  hundred  and 
twenty  to  two  hundred  and  twenty 
yards  from  the  tee,  and  so  on  correspondingly 
with  long  holes,  so  that  each  good  shot  should 
be  rewarded  with  a  good  lie.  Rather  let  the 
intervening  ground  go  somewhat  neglected,  as 
a  player  has  no  business  there  anyway.  On 
the  sides  hazards  should  be  arranged  to  catch 
sliced  or  pulled  balls,  where  long  grass  is  not 
present.  Endeavor  to  so  construct  the  haz- 
ards as  to  furnish  some  diversity,  rather  than 
have  them  all  of  the  same  family  type. 

In  laying  out  a  new  course  or  making 
changes  in  an  old  one,  it  is  highly  advisable 
to  secure  expert  advice  before  commencing 
work. 


XIII 

PUTTING    GREENS 

THE  climate  in  this  country  can  hardly  be 
said  to  lend  itself  to  the  growth  or  develop- 
ment of  natural  greens  of  the  first  rank.  The 
extreme  heat  and  cold  are  not  favorable  allies. 
Therefore,  all  really  good  greens  call  for  arti- 
ficial treatment  from  their  inception  to  protect 
them  from  adverse  climatic  conditions  and  to 
insure  their  being  kept  well.  In  the  first 
place,  it  is  absolutely  essential  that 
ofw^tcr  eacn  green  should  be  freely  watered 
during  the  summer  months,  and  this 
can  only  be  properly  done  by  laying  a  system 
of  pipes.  Unless  this  is  done  the  grass  be- 
comes blistered  by  the  heat  and  drought,  and 
the  ground  gets  hard  and  lumpy. 

Nearly  all  good  courses  have  water  laid  on 
to  every  green.  It  is  not  too  much,  in  fact, 
to  say,  that  no  first-class  green  can  be  main- 
tained without  such  aid,  intelligently  applied. 

159 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

The  best  time  to  do  the  watering  is  after 
the  sun  is  down,,  otherwise  possible  injury 
may  result  to  the  grass,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
loss  from  evaporation  on  a  hot,  sunny  day. 
The  water  should  be  applied  in  a  fine  spray, 
not  on  any  account  in  a  solid  stream  or  un- 
broken jet,  which  is  liable  to  make  the  sur- 
face rough  by  washing  out  the  soil.  It  should 
be  kept  going  sufficiently  long  to  thoroughly 
percolate  through  to  the  roots  of  the  grass. 
It  is  much  better  to  thus  soak  a  green  twice 
a  week  than  to  simply  moisten  the  surface 
nightly.  More  especially  does  a  new  green 
demand  a  liberal  supply  of  water  in  order  to 
give  the  young  grass  a  chance  to  get  well 
rooted. 

Where  the  natural  conditions  are  favorable 

it  is  advisable  to  build  up  a  green  from  the 

old  turf.     But  if  coarse  grass  exists  to 

mat^of  any  extent,  then  it  is  better  in  the  long 

New  run  to  resort  to  sodding.  In  the  event 
of  good  sod  not  being  available,  there 
is  but  one  thing  left  to  do,  and  that  is  to 
plough  up  'the  surface  to  a  depth  of  a  foot  or 
so  and  remove  all  loose  material.  Then  pro- 
ceed to  fill  in  a  layer  of  sand  a  few  inches 
in  depth,  and  cover  it  with  good  loam  about 
an  inch  or  so  thick;  on  top  of  this  put  a  thin 

160 


PUTTING      GREENS 

crust  of  well-rotted  manure,  and  then  another 
layer  of  loam  of  two  or  three  inches.  At  this 
stage  apply  a  dressing  of  bone-dust,  with  a 
touch  of  slacked  lime.  Cover  this  with  a 
suggestion  of  sand,  superficially  only,  and 
top  off  with  loam,  the  surface  being  raked 
and  finely  pulverized.  Sow  liberally  with  a 
mixture  of  recleaned  Red  Top,  Rhode  Island 
Bent,  Creeping  Bent,  Crested  Dog's  Tail,  and 
Kentucky  Blue  grass,  and  level  off  and  roll 
with  a  very  light  roller.  It  is  of  prime  impor- 
tance that  the  ground  should  be  abundantly 
supplied  with  moisture  to  make  sure  of  the 
roots  becoming  firmly  established,  as  it  is  not 
always  safe  to  rely  upon  Dame  Nature  to  look 
after  this  end  of  the  business.  Err  on  the 
side  of  an  apparent  excess  of  moisture  rather 
than  an  insufficiency,  especially  during  the 
early  stages  and  the  first  season. 

Aim  to  give  diversity  to  the  greens  in  respect 
to  the  character  of  the  surface,  avoiding  as 
far  as  possible  dead  levels.  Rather  let  the 
contour  be  of  a  gently  undulating  nature  here 
and  there.  This  may  very  easily  be  done 
also  in  the  case  of  sodded  greens. 

Where  there  is  a  fairly  good  foundation  to 
work  upon  in  the  shape  of  average  turf  that 
offers  promise  with  a  little  nursing,  it  is  better 
L  161 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

to  accept  what  the  gods  give  us  and  make  the 
best  of  it.  Proceed  first  by  carefully  removing 
by  the  roots  any  weeds  or  coarse  grass;  then 
gently  loosen  the  surface,  particularly  on  bare 
spots,  with  a  rake,  and  cover  with  a  thin  dress- 
ing over  the  entire  green  of  rich  loam  previous- 
ly mixed  with  bone-dust  and,  if  possible,  sheep 
manure,  with  a  liberal  admixture  of  the  grass 
seeds  already  mentioned.  Rake  over  thor- 
oughly with  a  wooden  rake,  and  lightly 
roll  and  keep  freely  watered.  Well  -  rotted 
manure  is  a  good  plant  food,  in  conjunction 
with  bone-dust,  but  the  paramount  objection 
to  it  is  that  it  is  apt  to  contain  weed  germs, 
consequently  it  cannot  be  safely  recommend- 
ed at  any  time  for  top-dressing.  Pulverized 
sheep  manure  is  also  excellent,  but  not  so 
readily  procurable.  A  slight  sprinkling  of 
wood-ashes  will  do  no  harm.  Avoid,  how- 
ever, any  over-indulgence  in  potash  fertilizers, 
as  they  provoke  a  growth  of  clover,  and  clover 

°^  ^^  kind  has  no  place  on  a  course. 

Unless  it  is  kept  very  closely  cut  on 


the  greens,  it  has  a  very  "draggy" 
and  retarding  effect  on  the  run  of  a  ball,  and 
is  therefore  undesirable.  It  is  also  objection- 
able through  the  fair  green,  as  it  has  no  sus- 
taining power  to  hold  a  ball  up.  The  ball 

162 


PUTTING      GREENS 

sinks  through  the  yielding  cluster  of  leaves 
and  stems  and  so  embeds  itself  that  it  has  to 
be  dug  out  by  the  roots  as  it  were.  Before 
the  face  of  the  club  can  reach  the  ball  in  a 
patch  of  clover  it  has  first  to  come  in  contact 
with  the  intervening  leaves,  and  the  stroke  is 
thus  robbed  of  a  good  deal  of  power. 

The  ideal  putting-green  is  covered  with  a 
close  sward  of  very  fine  grass,  with  a  thick 
matting  of  roots.  The  blades  should  be  fine 
and  slender,  silky  and  yet  tenacious  —  en- 
tirely different  from  the  ordinary  first-class 
lawn.  A  coarse,  large-bladed  grass,  the  prod- 
uct of  undue  fertility,  is  not  what  is  wanted 
— quite  the  contrary.  Putting,  in  the  true 
sense  of  the  word,  is  impossible  on  such. 
Really  good  greens  are  to  be  found  natural- 
ly on  sandy  soils,  or  rather  where  the  sub- 
stratum is  of  sand  with  a  surface  deposit  of 
loam. 

Comparatively  few  courses  are  blessed  with 
such,  but  much  may  be  done  to  bring  almost 
Need  of  any  green  UP  to  a  better  level  by  ap- 
impover-  proximating  the  conditions  and  con- 
stituents of  these  seaside  greens  by  a 
liberal  use  of  sand,  the  free  application  of 
which,  during  the  fall  and  early  spring  months, 
will  work  a  most  beneficial  change.  Most  in- 

163 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

land  greens  need  impoverishing  instead  of  en- 
riching. Sand  will  do  this  to  a  marked  ex- 
tent, and  a  finer  growth  of  grass  will  result. 

A  close  and  prolonged  study  of  this  question 
convinces  me  that  the  best  treatment  for  the 
Dressing  general  run  °f  greens  is  a  liberal  ap- 

f°r  plication  of  sand,  seed,  bone-dust,  lime, 
and  water.  Neither  the  sand,  the  bone- 
dust,  nor  the  lime,  however,  should  be  put  on 
during  the  summer  months.  Commencing  in 
October,  a  sprinkling  of  sand,  bone-dust,  lime, 
and  clear,  white  sea-sand  should  be  applied, 
while  the  greens  are  still  in  use.  The  sand 
will  quickly  work  itself  into  the  soil,  and  as 
fast  as  it  does  more  should  be  sprinkled  on 
until  it  is  decided  to  close  them  for  the  winter. 
Then  a  more  liberal  supply  of  bone-dust  may 
be  added,  and  the  entire  surface  of  the  green 
be  covered  with  about  half  an  inch  of  sand. 
The  snows  and  rains  of  the  winter  will  leave 
very  little  trace  by  spring.  In  April  or  May 
— according  to  the  latitude — put  on  a  very  thin 
coat  of  fine  loam  mixed  with  bone-dust  and 
plenty  of  seed.  On  top  of  this  sprinkle  a  sug- 
gestion of  sand,  and  see  that  the  greens  have 
plenty  of  water,  if  the  natural  supply  is  defi- 
cient. Run  a  very  light  roller  over  so  as  to 
make  an  even  surface.  If  any  weeds  make 

164 


PUTTING      GREENS 

their  appearance,  carefully  remove  them  by  the 
roots,  and  fill  in  with  the  compost  mentioned. 
After  the  warm  weather  sets  in  abstain  from 
sand,  and  water  freely. 

The  application  of  sand  will  not  only  refine 
the  quality  of  the  grass  itself,  but  will  make 
it  more  impervious  to  wear.  Not  only  that, 
but  it  will  tend  to  minimize  the  worm  nuisance. 
Concerning  worms,  it  may  safely  be  said  that 
the  richer  the  soil  the  greater  is  the  wealth 
of  worms,  and,  inversely,  the  poorer  the  soil 
the  greater  freedom  from  this  curse.  As  I 
have  already  remarked,  the  soil  on  the  majority 
of  greens  needs  impoverishing.  This  alone 
would  beget  a  better,  because  poorer,  quality 
of  grass.  We  are  not  seeking  to  raise  hay 
crops. 

There    are    some    worm    mixtures    on    the 
market  which  are  excellent  but  somewhat  ex- 
pensive.   A  very  good  and  inexpensive 
wo!ms    substitute   may   be   found   by  boiling 
a   couple   of  bars  of   ordinary  yellow 
laundry  soap,  and  mixing  it  with  a  barrelful 
of  from  thir.ty  to  forty  gallons  of  water,  apply- 
ing the  mixture   freely  through  an  ordinary 
watering-pot.     This  will  bring  the  worms  to 
the  surface  in  myriads,  when  they  may  easily 
be  gathered.     A   few  applications  during  the 

165 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

spring  and  autumn  months,  when  the  worms 
are  most  active,  will  materially  abate  this 
nuisance.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  have 
the  solution  any  stronger  than  recommended, 
otherwise  the  alkali  present  will  injure  the 
grass.  With  the  proportion  suggested,  how- 
ever, no  possible  harm  will  result. 

Before  cutting  or  rolling  a  green  where 
worm  casts  are  in  evidence,  they  should  first 
be  thoroughly  scattered  by  brushing  with 
an  old  house  or  stable  broom.  This  is  very 
important.  Unless  this  is  done  the  roller  will 
plaster  them  down  and  kill  the  grass  so  cov- 
ered, and  bare,  moth-eaten  appearing  patches 
will  assuredly  be  produced.  Apart  altogether 
from  worm  casts  any  green  may  be  improved 
by  "combing"  or  lightly  brushing  before 
cutting  or  rolling. 

The   holes   should   be  changed   frequently. 

Do  not  wait  until  signs  of  wear  are  apparent. 

change    ^n  cutting  new  holes,  especially  during 

Holes  the  summer  months,  when  the  ground 
is  dry  and  crumbling,  the  top  sides  may 
the  better  be  kept  intact  by  filling  the  hole 
with  water  immediately  it  is  cut.  And  the 
same  practice  applied  to  the  old  hole  before  re- 
filling will  give  the  transplanted  inset  a  better 
chance  to  quickly  mould  itself  into  and  become 
166 


PUTTING      GREENS 

an  integral,  even  part  of  its  new  home.  Many 
green-keepers  do  not  cut  the  holes  sufficiently 
deep.  The  upper  edge  of  the  tin  or  cup  should 
be  about  half  an  inch  below  the  surface  of 
the  ground.  It  frequently  happens,  especially 
during  a  tournament  with  a  large  number 
of  players,  that  a  circular  depression  about  a 
foot  from  the  hole  is  caused  by  the  heels  of 
the  caddies,  particularly  when  the  ground  is 
soft.  This  does  not  by  any  means  assist  the 
ball  in  finding  the  bottom  of  the  hole.  This 
state  of  affairs  will  continue  to  exist  so  long 
as  caddies  are  allowed  to  stand  close  up  to 
the  hole.  But  it  may  be  remedied  by  having 
a  man  go  around  with  a  tamper,  formed  by 
joining  together  a  couple  of  pieces  of  solid 
pine  each  a  full  inch  or  so  thick  and  about 
eighteen  inches  square,  with  a  handle  in  the 
centre  running  through  the  top  plank.  A 
few  gentle  taps  with  this  around  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  hole  will  flatten  down  any 
irregularities. 

Nothing  improves  a  green  so  much  as  be- 
ing constantly  played  upon,  provided  that  the 
holes  are  frequently  changed,  before  they  show 
any  evidence  of  wear  in  close  proximity  to 
the  hole.  The  human  foot  is  a  great  agen- 
cy, and  wonderfully  assists  the  work  of  the 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

roller.      Every  green   should    be  rolled   daily 
with   a    light   roller  —  whether   it  apparently 
needs  it  or  not.     It  sometimes  happens 
that  in  anticipation  of   an    important 
cutting   tournament  the  powers   that  be   elect 

Greens 

to  give  the  greens  a  rest  in  order  that 
they  may  be  in  apple-pie  condition  during 
the  meeting.  The  grass  is  allowed  to  grow 
and  the  greens  are  left  fallow  for  a  week  or 
so  beforehand,  general  play  in  the  mean  time 
being  confined  to  some  rough  part  outside  of 
the  sacred  precincts  of  the  regular  green. 
This  is  a  grave  mistake.  When  the  grass  is 
cut  a  day  or  two  before  the  event,  the  truncat- 
ed portion  left  is  necessarily  more  or  less  stub- 
bly and  rough,  and  putting,  actual  putting,  is 
wellnigh  impossible.  The  ground  itself,  by 
reason  of  the  cessation  from  rolling,  naturally 
works  up  and  forms  itself  into  all  sorts  of 
roughnesses,  so  that,  in  order  to  work  it  down 
into  comparative  smoothness  of  surface,  a  very 
heavy  roller  must  be  employed — to  the  possible 
injury  of  the  grass  later  on. 

I  am  firmly  of  the  opinion  that  the  present 
method  of  closing  and  covering  up  the  greens 
upon  the  approach  of  and  during  the  winter 
season  is  unwise.  Leaving  out  of  the  ques- 
tion for  the  moment  the  actual  playing  on 
168 


PUTTING      GREENS 

them,  it  seems  to  me  that  the  artificial  pro- 
tection afforded  by  covering  them  with  manure, 
winter    straw,  or  anything  else  (save  a  little 
on    sand),  unfits  the   grass   to   withstand 


the  severities  of  play,  especially  during 
the  summer  months.  This  hot  -house  kind 
of  pampering  care  may  be  adapted  for  lawns, 
but  not  for  putting  -  greens.  When  uncov- 
ered in  the  early  spring  a  beautiful  green 
oasis  is  disclosed,  which  quickty  vanishes  after 
a  brief  spell  of  cold  or  hot  weather,  and  the 
blades  soon  wear  a  shrivelled-up  appearance. 
Moreover,  greens  so  treated  are  more  suscep- 
tible to  wear  from  ordinary  play.  Except 
in  the  case  of  a  newly  seeded  green,  I  ques- 
tion the  advisability  of  any  winter  covering. 
On  a  new  green  it  is  of  course  necessary  to 
aid  the  roots  as  much  as  possible  in  getting 
well  started,  more  especially  if  sown  in  the 
fall.  But  we  are  now  more  immediately  con- 
cerned with  greens  that  have  been  down  for 
several  seasons,  and  which  have  become  fairly 
well  rooted. 

It  is  the  common  opinion  that  a  green  will 
be  irretrievably  ruined  by  playing  on  it  dur- 
ing the  winter  months.  This  is  a  delusion. 
Observe  carefully,  at  the  beginning  of  spring, 
the  actual  condition  of  temporary  greens  set 

169 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

apart  on  many  courses  for  the  winter.  There 
is  nothing  then — or  subsequently — to  give  the 
slightest  indication  that  the  roots  have  been 
impaired  in  the  least  degree — nor  have'  they. 
Yet  play  has  gone  on  alike  when  the  ground 
has  been  as  hard  as  adamant  from  severe 
frost  and  as  soft  and  spongy  as  a  quagmire 
from  resultant  thaws,  and  when  putting  can 
only  be  done  with  a  mashie,  owing  to  the 
pock-marked  state  of  the  surface  from  heel- 
marks  and  muddy  unevennesses.  Yet  such 
greens  come  out  all  right  and  seem  rather  to 
be  improved  than  otherwise.  On  some  courses, 
indeed,  general  play  is  maintained  through- 
out the  entire  year  on  the  regular  greens, 
without  detriment  or  injury  of  any  kind. 

This  is  doubtless  due  to  the  fact  that 
RonLg    the    roots  are,  during   this   period,  in 

a  quiescent  state  and  cannot  sustain 
any  harm  so  long  as  the  greens  are  kept 
rolled  when  the  ground  is  soft.  With  a  light 
roller  too  much  rolling  in  winter  can  hardly 
be  done  with  any  possible  injury,  thanks 
to  the  upheaving  influences  of  frost,  which 
prevent  any  possibility  of  the  ground  being 
packed  so  hard  as  to  cause  the  grass  to  be- 
come root-bound. 

From  May  until  October  each  green  should 
170 


PUTTING      GREENS 

be  rolled  daily  with  a  light  roller,  rather  than 
once  or  twice  a  week  with  a  heavy  one.  A 
roller,  moreover,  should  always  be  pulled, 
not  pushed.  And,  except  in  July  and  August, 
the  grass  should  be  kept  closely  mown  and 
freely  watered  when  necessary.  During  the 
extremely  hot  months  the  cutting-bars  of  the 
mowers  should  be  slightly  raised,  so  as  to 
allow  a  somewhat  denser  growth  as  a  pro- 
tection for  the  roots.  The  proper  care  of 
greens  demands  unceasing  care  and  unre- 
mittent,  intelligent  attention.  Eternal  vigil- 
ance is  the  price  of  first-class  greens. 


XIV 

HANDICAPPING 

THE  essence  of  handicapping  is  to  put  all 
the  players  on  a  common  level — to  give  the 
poorest  player  an  equal  chance  to  win  with 
the  rest  of  the  field.  In  order  to  adjust  the 
handicap  fairly  it  is  necessary  to  work  upon 
some  definite  principle.  As  a  general  thing 
this  is  comparatively  easy,  especially  if  a 
record  is  kept  of  the  scores  of  the  players. 
To  assist  the  handicap  committee  in  establish- 
ing the  status  of  each  member,  at  least  three 
consecutive  scores,  duly  attested,  should  be 
handed  in  by  every  player,  and  a  detailed 
record  should  be  kept  for  future  reference. 
Scores  made  in  competition  should  also  be 

recorded.  Any  failure  to  hand  in  a 
capping  competitive  score  should  be  visited  by 

a  penalty  of  a  stroke  in  the  delinquent's 
handicap.  With  some  such  system  it  would 
not  take  long  to  arrive  at  a  fairly  definite  idea 

172 


HA  N  D  I  C  A  P  P  I  N  G 

of  the  capabilities  of  each  and  every  player. 
As  a  further  aid  it  is  not  a  bad  plan  to  get 
each  player  to  fix  the  handicaps  of  all  the 
other  players,  particularly  in  newly  formed 
clubs,  until  something  is  known  by  the  han- 
dicappers  of  the  members'  respective  abilities. 

The  handicap  committee  should  consist  of 
not  more  than  three,  who  should  be  in  frequent 
touch  with  the  active  players.  After  every 
competition,  revisions,  if  necessary,  should  be 
made  in  the  official  ratings,  which  should  be  kept 
posted,  in  alphabetical  order,  in  the  club-house. 

In  establishing  the  handicaps  it  is  cus- 
tomary to  work  up  from  the  best  player  in 
the  club,  who  is  rated  at  scratch.  By  far  the 
better  plan,  however,  is  to  take  as  a  basis  the 
par — not  the  bogey — of  the  course,  which  is  a 
fixed  quantity.  Par  golf,  it  may  be  remarked, 
is  perfect  golf,  determined  according  to  the  dis- 
tances of  the  holes  and  with  two  strokes  allowed 
on  each  green,  while  bogey  simply  represents 
the  score  of  a  good  player  who  occasionally 
makes  a  mistake,  not  very  glaring,  but  suffi- 
cient to  make  a  difference  in  the  round  of  four 
or  five  strokes.  Bogey  is  an  elastic  quantity, 
however,  so  much  so,  indeed,  on  some  courses, 
as  to  furnish  no  true  criterion  of  the  game  of 
the  player  who  now  and  then  beats  the  Colonel. 
173 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

If  all  clubs  adopted  the  practice  of  handi- 
capping from  par  it  would  be  an  easy  matter 
to  fix  the  standing  of  every  player  through- 
out the  country.  As  it  is,  however,  a  scratch 
player  at  Stumpville  may  conceivably  be  en- 
titled to  a  handicap  of  nine  strokes  from  a 
scratch  man  at  Bunkerville.  This,  of  course, 
has  to  be  taken  into  account  by  the  handicap 
committee  in  an  open  handicap  tournament, 
and  adds  materially  to  the  difficulty  of  placing 
all  the  competitors  on  an  equitable  footing. 
So  far  as  New  York  and  its  immediate  vicinity 
is  concerned  the  Metropolitan  Golf  Association 
has  accomplished  a  very  good  work  by  classify- 
ing all  the  players  of  the  various  clubs  in  the 
association  up  to  a  limit  of  seventeen  strokes. 
The  handicaps  are  fixed  at  the  beginning  of 
the  season,  and,  necessarily,  are  based  upon 
the  performances  of  the  preceding  season.  So 
far  as  it  goes  this  official  ranking  of  the  players 
has  proved  of  much  assistance,  but  it  would 
perhaps  be  of  greater  value  if  the  list  were  re- 
vised at  least  once  during  the  season — after 
the  local  championship  meeting,  for  instance.* 

*  EDITOR'S  NOTE. — Since  the  foregoing  was  written  it 
has  been  decided  by  the  Metropolitan  Golf  Association  to  re- 
adjust the  handicaps  twice  each  season — at  the  beginning 
of  the  season,  and  again  in  August. 

174 


HA  N  D  I C  A  P  P  I  N  G 

The  Metropolitan  Golf  Association  ratings, 
in  common  with  the  large  majority  of  individual 
clubs'  handicap  lists  throughout  the  country, 
rest  upon  score  play  only.  Each  club,  how- 
ever, should  compile  a  separate  table  of 
strokes  for  match  play  instead  of,  as  is 
usual,  allowing  three-fourths  of  the  dif- 
ference in  handicap  allowances,  count- 
ing a  half-stroke,  or  over,  as  one.  As  a  gen- 
eral thing  such  difference  is  applicable  to  most 
players,  but,  obviously,  not  all.  ,For  example, 
A,  the  scratch  player  of  a  clubj,  may  average 
eighty,  while  B's  average  score  is  ninety,  gen- 
erally due  to  a  few  poorly  played  holes.  To 
average  eighty  on  a  good  course  presupposes 
fairly  consistent  play.  Now  in  match  play  A 
would  have  to  concede  B  eight  strokes  on  the 
latter's  handicap  of  ten  strokes  in  score  com- 
petition. Let  us  take  the  hypothetical  average 
cards  of  each  and  see  what  the  result  would  be : 

A's  score,    out  143454455     5—39 
B's  score,    out  143654375     7—44 

A's  score,      in  155454555     3—41 
B's  score,      in  165474565     4 — 46 

Playing  level,  A  would  beat  B  four  up  and 
three  to  play.  Conceding  eight  strokes,  how- 
ever, one  each  at  the  second  and  each  alternate 

175 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

hole  up  to  the  sixteenth,  it  will  be  seen  that 
B  would  beat  A  three  up  and  two  to  play. 

This  is  an  example  of  simply  an  ordinary 
case.  There  are,  of  course,  a  few  more  pro- 
nounced, where  the  difference  would  be  much 
greater,  both  in  favor  of  and  against  the 
scratch  man.  It  is  quite  possible  for  a  player 
to  be  good  at  medal  play  and  poor  at  match 
play,  and  vice  versa.  A  poor  score-card  may 
show  remarkable  strength  at  hole  play,  strong- 
er, indeed,  than  one  aggregating  half  a  dozen 
strokes  less  for  the  round. 

In  order  to  gauge  the  game  of  a  player 
as  a  match  player — which,  after  all,  is  the 
supreme  test  of  golfing  ability — it  should  be 
incumbent  on  the  handicappers  to  carefully 
analyze  the  score  for  each  hole,  such  analysis 
embracing  at  least  three  or  four  typical  or 
representative  cards,  before  any  fair  allowance 
can  be  made  applicable  to  hole  play,  consid- 
ered alone.  Nor  is  this  the  only  essential. 
Regard  must  also  be  had  for  the  known 
strength  or  weakness  of  the  player  at  both 
score  play  and  match  play,  as  the  case  may 
be.  Few  men  are  relatively  good  at  both.  No 
hard  and  fast  rule  can  be  laid  down,  as  tem- 
peraments vary,  and  sometimes  in  opposite 
directions. 


HA NDICAPPING 

Sufficient  has  been  said  to  indicate  the 
necessity  of  fixing  separate  handicaps  for 
score  play  and  match  play,  certainly  in  some 
cases,  instead  of  simply  accepting  the  aggre- 
gate medal  score  as  the  basis  and  universally 
allowing  the  regulation  three  -  fourths  of  the 
difference. 

The  match  play  allowance  in  foursomes  is 
three-eighths  of  difference  between  the  aggre- 
gate handicap  allowance  on  either  side,  a 
half-stroke,  or  over,  counting  as  one,  smaller 
fractions  not  being  considered. 

In  match  play  strokes  received  are  usually 
taken  as  shown  in  table  on  page  178. 

Most  clubs,  however,  may  find  it  advisable 
to  arrange  a  schedule  of  their  own,  accord- 
ing to  the  special  nature  and  difficulty  of  the 
various  holes.  Such  list  should  be  posted  in 
the  club-house. 

Another  form  of  handicapping  which  is 
productive  of  very  interesting  matches  is  to 
allow  your  opponent  so  many  "holes  up"  at 
the  start.  The  usual  mathematical  propor- 
tion is  two-thirds  of  the  medal  handicap.  For 
instance,  if  the  handicap  allowance  is  nine 
strokes,  six  holes  are  conceded  by  a  scratch 
player.  This  principle  must,  however,  be 
modified  somewhat  as  the  higher  handicaps 
M  177 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 


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are  reached.  Such  system  is  not  applicable 
to  a  club  where  members  receive  such  handicaps 
as  twenty  to  thirty  strokes,  as  on  the  latter 
basis  the  scratch  player  would  start  twenty 
holes  down  in  eighteen,  which,  of  course,  is 
ridiculous. 

Another  method,  less  commonly  observed, 
is  the  giving  of  so  many  bisques,  each  repre- 
senting a  stroke  to  be  taken  at  the  pleasure 
of  the  player  receiving  them,  after  the  hole 
has  been  played.  The  use  of  a  bisque  at  a 
halved  hole  converts  a  half  into  a  win  in  favor 
of  the  receiver,  or  into  a  half  if  only  one  more 
stroke  has  been  taken. 

Still  another  plan  is  to  concede  all  holes  as 
lost  when  halved,  only  those  won  outright 
counting  in  favor  of  the  giver  of  such  odds. 

Generally  speaking,  the  three  last  men- 
tioned methods  of  adjustment  are  better  adapt- 
ed for  private  matches  than  for  regular  com- 
petitions, as  it  is  much  easier  for  two  players 
to  arrange  their  own  terms  between  themselves 
so  as  to  place  them  on  a  very  close  level,  than 
it  would  be  for  the  handicap  committee  to  ar- 
rive at  anything  like  satisfactory  results  with 
a  large  field.  Everything  considered,  the  sys- 
tem first  referred  to  is  capable  of  broader  ap- 
plication, and  fairer,  generally,  when  the  com- 

179 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

petition  embraces  a  number  of  players.  The 
mutability  of  the  game  of  the  average  player 
makes  it  impossible  to  reduce  any  system  of 
handicapping  to  an  exact  science — and  it  is 
perhaps  just  as  well  that  it  is  so. 


XV 

HAZARD  S— Additional 

IT  is  not  impossible  to  conceive  of  a  course 
being  laid  out  wholly  and  entirely  free  from 
bunkers  or  hazards  of  any  sort  or  description, 
and  yet  furnishing  good  golf,  provided  always 
that  the  distance  of  each  hole  be  properly  ar- 
ranged so  as  to  call  for  one,  two,  or  three  good 
shots,  as  the  case  may  be,  to  reach  the  green. 
Such  a  course,  however,  would  lack  that  de- 
gree of  interest  which  can  only  be  supplied 
by  the  negotiation  of  difficulties,  natural  or 
artificial,  which  really  form  an  integral  part 
of  the  game — as  well  to  reward  good  play 
as  to  penalize  poor  play.  Thus  we  find  that 
all  the  leading  courses  in  the  world  are  dis- 
tinguished by  possessing  more  or  less  hazards, 
according  to  the  nature  of  the  ground,  and 
determined  largely  by  the  character  of  the 
play.  Where,  generally  speaking,  the  stand- 
ard of  play  is  of  a  high  order,  it  will  be  found 
181 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

that  the  growing  development  of  the  players 
is  coincident  with  the  development  of  the 
course;  as  the  players  improve  the  course 
is  made  more  difficult.  Especially  is  this 
true  of  the  older  links.  Experience  has  shown 
where  additional  hazards  are  needed  to  keep 
pace  with  the  advancement  in  the  game,  and 
there  is  usually  a  reason,  and  a  good  one 
too,  for  their  appearance,  although  their  pro- 
jectors have  had  to  fight  hard  for  their  adoption. 

Speaking  by  and  large,  our  courses  here 
are  not  nearly  so  difficult,  in  respect  of  haz- 
ards, as  those  in  Great  Britain;  nor,  it  may 
be  added,  has  the  game  reached  the  same 
standard;  and  until  we  reach  the  approximate 
level  of  the  one  we  can  hardly  hope  to  do  so 
of  the  other. 

A  really  good  course,  before  it  can  be  un- 
prejudicially  pronounced  as  such,  must  abound 
in  hazards — and  good  courses  develop  good 
players.  Take  St.  Andrew's,  for  instance: 
in  the  absence  of  many  of  its  hazards  it  could 
hardly  be  ranked  as  first  class.  I  am  speak- 
ing now  of  the  old  course.  I  know  it  savors 
of  heresy  to  express  such  an  opinion,  but 
the  cold  fact  remains  that  many  of  the  holes 
are  wofully  weak  in  respect  of  distance  and 
are  only  redeemed  from  absolute  mediocrity 

182 


HAZARDS 

by  their  attendant  bunkers.  I  can  only  at- 
tribute the  defect  mentioned  to  the  links  having 
been  originally  laid  out  with  reference  to  the 
old  feather  ball ;  likewise  the  presence  of  many 
bunkers  which  are  now  decidedly  unfair. 
They  may  have  been  defensible  in  bygone 
days,  before  the  introduction  of  the  gutta 
ball,  when  certain  of  the  holes  which  now  call 
for  a  drive  and  a  short  approach  formerly  de- 
manded two  good  shots. 

So  also  with  the  bunkers,  particularly  on  the 
fifth  and  twelfth  holes,  where  a  long  tee  shot 
straight  for  the  hole  will  almost  assuredly  be 
trapped ;  and  the  same  is  true  of  a  fine  second 
after  a  good  tee  shot  on  the  fourteenth.  And 
there  is  absolutely  nothing  to  indicate  the 
existence  even  of  these  bunkers.  You  simply 
have  to  rely  upon  your  knowledge  of  the  course 
or  act  upon  the  advice  of  your  caddie  and 
play  to  either  side.  Yet,  despite  the  manifest 
unfairness  of  these  particular  hazards — and 
others  of  lesser  importance — there  is  a  won- 
derful fascination  in  playing  to  avoid  them, 
when  you  become  more  familiar  with  the 
course.  Although  not  by  any  means  an  ideal 
links,  scores  of  years  of  play  have  so  hallowed 
the  associations  of  every  bunker  that  the 
mere  suggestion  of  removing  or  changing 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

any  one  of  them  would  be  regarded  as  rank 
sacrilege  by  its  worshippers — a  sentiment  that 
I  can  appreciate  without  wholly  concurring 
in.  It  is  only  proper  to  add  that  the  new 
course  is  so  laid  out  as  to  render  it  practi- 
cally free  from  any  criticism. 

On  none  of  the  foreign  courses  —  that  is,  on 
none  of  the  sea-side  links — has  Nature  made 
it  necessary  to  arrange  the  hazards  of  an  ar- 
tificial character  on  the  same  general  lines 
as  those  in  this  country,  and  which,  from 
Maine  to  Oregon,  may  be  said  to  all  bear 
the  same  family  resemblance  as  to  suggest 
a  common  origin.  This  is  due  partly  to  the 
physical  configuration  of  the  ground  being 
somewhat  different,  partaking  more  of  flat, 
unbroken  stretches  and  a  general  freedom 
from  dunes,  and  partly  to  an  imperfect  ap- 
preciation of  the  real  needs  of  hazards  and 
their  refinements  and  artistic  application  in 
other  than  the  regular  stereotyped  patterns, 
which  tend  largely  to  disfigure  so  many  of 
our  courses.  They  are  coexistent  with  the 
era  of  terraced  putting-greens  and  built-up 
trees.  Usually  they  are  represented  by  huge 
embankments  thrown  up  transversely  the  full 
width  of  the  course,  resembling  rifle-pits,  of 
uniform  height  throughout — hideous  excres- 
184 


HAZARDS 

cences  on  the  fair  face  of  Nature.  There  is 
a  line  of  these  fortifications  confronting  you 
from  nearly  every  tee,  ranging  in  distance 
from  80  to  130  yards,  and  another  line  for 
the  second  shot,  and  so  on,  with  little  or  no 
diversification  throughout  the  round. 

How  much  better  and  how  infinitely  more 
interesting  it  would  make  the  game  to  vary 
these  artificial  creations  at  each  hole,  and 
how  easy  it  would  be  to  make  them  more  pict- 
uresque and  in  keeping  with  the  surround- 
ings, and  to  have  them  so  arranged  as  to 
make  each  hole  present  a  new  problem  in- 
stead of  possessing  the  same  dreary  uniformity 
now  so  characteristic.  Let  one  hole  be  dis- 
tinguished by  a  certain  hazard  for  a  sliced 
tee  shot,  another  hazard  for  a  pulled  ball, 
and  still  another  for  a  long  second  shot. 
Make  the  feature  of  another  hole  be  a  long 
carry  from  the  tee,  with  a  hazard  guarding 
the  green,  so  as  to  make  imperative  a  well- 
executed  approach  with  cut.  Have  another 
demand  a  fine  second  shot,  and  so  on.  In 
brief,  so  dispose  the  difficulties  as  to  compel  a 
player  to  extract  the  full  value  from  each  and 
every  club  in  his  bag  during  the  round,  and 
on  one  or  two  of  the  holes  to  play  certain  test- 
ing shots  with  such  nicety  and  keen  judg- 

185 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

ment  as  to  make  even  the  best  player  pause 
before  attempting  their  execution. 

Every  hole  should  not  be  on  parallel  lines. 
It  is  a  pleasing  change  to  have  a  few  laid  out 
at  obtuse  angles,  boomerang  fashion,  some- 
thing like  this: 


One  of  the  prime  requisites  of  a  hole  of 
this  nature  is  that  it  should  be  of  such  a  length 
as  to  call  for  one  or  two  good  shots  to  reach 
the  green.  In  the  particular  case  under  notice, 
the  long,  straight  driver  will  perhaps  essay 
to  cut  the  corner  on  the  left  slightly,  so  as 
to  make  the  second  shot  easier,  particularly 
as  a  pot  bunker  or  trap  lies  somewhat  to  the 
right  of  the  direction  to  the  hole,  some  forty 
yards  from  the  green.  The  man  who  can 
control  a  pull  will  also  reap  an  advantage. 
Both  these  shots,  however,  are  fraught  with 
more  or  less  danger,  which  does  not  attach 
to  the  play  of  the  straight  driver,  irrespective 
of  length. 

Other  holes  mav  be  laid  out  with  the  elbow 
186 


HAZARDS 

reversed.  Single -shot  holes,  slightly  around 
the  corner  to  the  left,  or  right,  also  call  for 
excellent  golf,  and  put  a  slight  premium  on 
scientific  pulling  or  slicing,  as  the  case  may 
be.  Very  frequently  the  nature  of  the  ground 
lends  itself  favorably  to  holes  of  this  kind. 
But  even  if  such  is  not  the  case,  some  of  the 
regular  holes  on  nearly  every  course  can 
easily  be  so  transposed  by  simply  letting  the 
grass  grow  on  one  side  and  correspondingly 
cutting  it  on  the  other. 

Too  much  importance  is  attached  to  the 
putting  in  of  bunkers  across  the  entire  width 
of  the  course,  too  often  at  just  that  distance 
that  will  catch  a  moderately  played  shot.  This 
is  not  exactly  right,  in  that  it  puts  too  great 
a  premium  on  the  game  of  the  long — but  of- 
ten erratic — player  and  unduly  punishes  the 
shorter  but  more  accurate  player.  Most  haz- 
ards should  be  arranged  so  as  to  compel  a 
man  to  drive  both  far  and  sure,  and  yet  to  give 
the  weaker  player  a  chance  to  avoid  being 
bunkered  provided  he  can  place  his  ball  wisely. 
There  is  no  great  penalty — if  any,  at  times — 
inflicted  on  the  swiper  in  the  mere  carrying 
of  the  regulation  bunker,  although  he  may 
have  pulled  or  sliced  the  shot.  Once  over, 
the  fair  green  is  so  wide  and  so  free  from  side 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

traps  that  he  has  little  to  fear,  while  the  shorter 
player  is  compelled  to  play  short,  and  thereby 
further  handicap  himself,  or  else  run  the  al- 
most certain  chance  of  being  bunkered.  The 
better  way  would  be  to  first  have  the  distance 
of  the  hole  right — that  is,  laid  out  with  reference 
to  its  being  reached  in  one,  two,  or  three  first- 
class  shots,  and  then  to  so  arrange  the  hazards 
as  to  catch  the  pulls  and  slices  of  the  long 
player,  with  a  long  carry  for  the  second  shot. 
Don't  trouble  to  put  in  so  many  traps  for  the 
short  player;  he  has  sufficient  troubles  of 
his  own,  and,  with  no  mistake  on  either  side, 
cannot  possibly  reach  the  green  in  the  same 
number  of  strokes  as  the  class  man.  The 
bunker  previously  noticed  for  the  second  shot 
will  be  so  far  away  that  he  cannot  get  into 
it  on  his  second,  but  will  nevertheless  have 
to  negotiate  it  in  some  way  on  his  third  shot. 
Generally  speaking,  while  we  have  not 
nearly  enough  bunkers,  there  is  too  much 
of  what  we  do  have.  The  material  is  there, 
but  it  is  not  scientifically  applied.  Let  me 
endeavor  to  exemplify  my  meaning.  Take, 
for  instance,  the  regulation  bunker  for  the 
tee  shot.  This  almost  invariably  stretches 
across  the  entire  width  of  the  green.  Instead 
of  this  I  should  put  in  one,  irregularly  outlined, 
188 


HAZARDS 

of  about  one-third  the  width  across,  leaving 
clear  spaces  on  either  side  for  the  shorter  play- 
er who  cannot  comfortably  carry  it,  and  from 
twenty  to  forty  yards  farther  on — according 
to  the  distance  of  the  first  bunker  from  the 
tee — hazards  of  nearly  equal  size  on  either 
side  of  the  course  to  catch  a  pulled  or  sliced 
ball,  as  the  case  may  be,  something  after  the 
following  fashion: 


o 


Fig.  I  represents  the  bunker  to  be  carried; 
Fig.  2  a  trap  for  a  sliced  shot,  or  one  off  the 
proper  line,  and  Fig.  3  a  hazard  for  a  pulled 
ball.  A  denotes  the  fair  green  between  the 
side  lines,  and  B  the  latter,  representing  long 
grass  or  other  difficulties. 
189 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

Again,  in  the  case  of  a  hole  say  from  3^0 
to  360  yards,  let  there  be  two  small  bunkers, 
arranged  thus : 


The  player  carrying  the  first  bunker  (Fig.  4) 
would  have  the  advantage  of  practically  a 
clear  and  unobstructed  approach  to  the  green 
(Fig.  6);  while  the  more  timorously  inclined, 
or  shorter  player,  could  play  safely  to  the  side, 
only,  however,  to  be  forced  to  negotiate  the  sec- 
ond bunker  (Fig.  5)  on  his  next  shot. 

Hazards  arranged  somewhat  upon  the  lines 
190 


HAZARDS 

indicated,  rather  than  slavishly  following  the 
system  adopted  on  the  great  majority  of  our 
courses,  would,  I  think,  make  the  game  vastly 
more  interesting,  and  more  provocative  of  bet- 
ter golf  all  around. 


XVI 

THE  "HASKELL"   BALL 

THE  Haskell  ball  has  recently  been  brought 
into  such  prominence  that  it  is  proper  to  make 
some  further  reference  to  it  in  its  new  char- 
acter. 

In  the  first  edition  the  remark  was  made 
that  this  ball  could  not  be  remade  to  advan- 
tage. At  that  time  this  was  popularly  sup- 
posed to  be  the  case,  on  account  of  its  peculiar 
construction  and  heterogeneousness.  It  was 
purely  by  accident  the  discovery  was  sub- 
sequently made  that  not  only  could  it  be  re- 
made, but  that  it  was  materially  improved 
by  the  process.  One  of  these  balls  was  mixed 
up  with  a  lot  of  old  gutties  to  be  remade,  with- 
out being  noticed,  and  after  going  through 
the  same  treatment  as  the  rest  it  at  once  at- 
tracted attention  from  its  different  behavior 
in  play,  and  its  identity  was  soon  disclosed. 

It  happened  to  be  remade  in  an  Agrippa, 
192 


THE      "HASKELL"      BALL 

or  bramble,  mould,  and  its  true  and  well-sus- 
tained flight,  in  contradistinction  to  that  of 
the  original  Haskell  ball,  proved  also  of  im- 
portance in  demonstrating  that  the  erratic 
flight  of  the  latter  was  not  due  to  any  inher- 
ent defects  in  the  ball  itself,  but  was  solely 
attributable  to  the  marking,  or,  rather,  to  the 
painting.  When  first  introduced,  the  grooves 
(rather  shallow)  were  so  filled  with  paint  as 
to  practically  destroy  the  usefulness  of  any 
marking  at  all.  It  was  simply  a  case  of  his- 
tory repeating  itself,  when  the  guttie  ball  was 
first  introduced  entirely  free  from  any  mark- 
ing. It  "dooked"  badly,  of  course.  But  after 
being  played  with  for  some  time,  and  receiv- 
ing a  number  of  tops  and  resultant  gashes, 
it  was  found  to  fly  much  better,  which  led  to 
the  practice  of  "hammering"  -i.e.,  nicking 
the  smooth  surface  with  a  series  of  small  in- 
dentations. This  process  was  afterwards  aban- 
doned and  the  ball  marked  in  moulding. 

The  original  Haskell  ball  was  moulded  in 
the  orthodox  manner,  but  the  paint  was  ap- 
plied too  thickly  for  the  comparatively  shal- 
low groovings;  thus  its  flight  was  erratic,  and 
it  had  a  marked  tendency  to  duck. 

In  their  efforts  to  remedy  this  defect  the 
makers  went  to  the  other  extreme  and  turned 
N  193 


PRACTICAL     GOLF 

out  a  ball  with  much  deeper  markings — so 
deep,  in  fact,  as  to  diminish  the  flight  in  a 
measure,  due  to  the  increased  resistance  of- 
fered by  the  air. 

They  have  now  reverted  to  the  original 
marking,  with  a  thinner  coating  of  paint, 
and  no  trouble  is  now  met  with.  To  suit  the 
taste  of  those  who  prefer  the  Agrippa,  or 
bramble,  pattern,  the  ball  is  also  made  in  this 
mould. 

It  seems  to  be  an  accepted  fact  that  a  re- 
moulded Haskell  ball  will  fly  slightly  farther 
than  a  new  one.  I  find  this  borne  out  in  my 
own  experience.  There  must  be  some  good 
reason  for  this,  and  I  think  it  can  only  be  ac- 
counted for  on  the  assumption  that  the  re- 
made ball  is  more  cohesive,  the  preparatory 
softening  of  the  entire  ball  enabling  the  gutta 
to  more  thoroughly  integrate  itself  with  the 
rubber  when  compressed,  thus  unifying  and 
making  more  homogeneous,  as  it  were,  the 
whole.  In  other  words,  the  remade  ball  is 
more  solid  throughout.  When  the  hot  gutta 
is  first  rolled  on  the  new  ball  the  heat  causes 
the  rubber  filaments  forming  the  core  to  ex- 
pand, and  the  gutta,  cooling  more  quickly 
than  the  rubber,  leaves  a  slight  vacuum  be- 
tween. In  remaking,  the  ball  is  soaked  in  hot 

194 


THE      "HASKELL"      BALL 

water,  and  the  gutta  is  softened  just  enough  to 
take  the  impression  of  the  mould;  if  the  heat 
is  allowed  to  extend  beyond  the  outside  shell 
of  gutta  in  too  great  a  degree,  the  remade  ball 
will  probably  crack  during  the  process  or  in 
play.  This  is  the  only  explanation  I  can 
offer.  If  there  is  anything  in  this  theory 
there  would  appear  to  be  no  good  reason 
why,  by  the  adoption  of  this  simple  process, 
the  new  ball  cannot  be  made,  at  the  outset, 
as  good  as  the  remoulded  one. 

One  of  the  principal  objections  to  the  ball 
as  at  present  made  is  its  great  liability  to 
crack.  This  seems  to  me  to  be  due  to  the 
fact  that  the  outside  shell  of  the  gutta  is  too 
thin.  When  struck,  the  backing  of  rubber 
yields  to  a  greater  extent  than  the  shell  of 
gutta,  by  reason  of  the  greater  resiliency  of 
the  former  in  direct  ratio  to  the  force  employed. 
The  more  vigorous  the  blow  the  more  the 
rubber  detaches  itself  from  the  gutta,  and  the 
greater  is  the  liability  of  the  gutta  being  un- 
able to  withstand  the  strain  on  account  of  its 
brittleness,  and  lacking,  as  it  does,  support 
from  the  rear.  In  these  circumstances  a 
fracture  is  inevitable.  The  remedy  would  ap- 
pear to  lie  in  making  the  outer  shell  of  some 
composition  that  would  enable  it  to  withstand 

195 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

the  shocks  to  which  it  is  subjected,  preserving, 
at  the  same  time,  so  far  as  possible,  all  re- 
silient qualities.  The  latter  point,  however, 
is  not  of  such  very  vital  importance,  inasmuch 
as  by  far  the  greater  degree  of  resiliency  re- 
sides in  the  rubber  core.  That  is  what  dif- 
ferentiates it  from  the  ordinary  ball — it  is 
the  very  soul  and  essence  of  the  Haskell. 

While  it  is,  unfortunately,  true  that  a  certain 
proportion  of  new  balls  crack — and  a  larger 
percentage  of  remades,  doubtless  incidental 
to  the  shell  of  the  latter  being  made  somewhat 
thinner  in  the  remoulding  process,  or  to  lack 
of  proper  care  in  remaking — yet  a  great  many 
do  not.  Free  from  this  defect,  the  life  of  the 
ball  is  much  longer  than  that  of  a  guttie,  as 
it  preserves  its  shape,  while  the  guttie  gets 
knocked  out  of  rotundity.  I  have  frequently 
played  with  a  Haskell  continuously  for  sev- 
eral days,  until  almost  entirely  denuded  of 
paint;  outside  of  which  it  was  almost  as  good 
as  new.  On  this  account,  although  costing 
originally  nearly  double  the  price,  it  is  in  the 
long  run  as  cheap,  perhaps,  as  the  guttie. 
Even  when  cracked  it  seems  to  make  but  lit- 
tle difference  —  unless  severely  fractured  —  as 
the  crack,  of  course,  is  in  the  gutta  itself, 
and  extends  only  to  the  rubber  core,  and  it 

196 


THE      ^HASKELL"      BALL 

is  the  latter  which  supplies  the  "go"  to  the 
ball. 

Another  weakness  occasionally  met  with 
is  the  lack  of  uniformity  in  the  thickness  of 
the  shell,  some  parts  being  thinner  than  others, 
thereby  inducing  a  tendency  to  crack  more 
easily,  and  also,  in  a  measure,  to  prejudicially 
affect  the  flight.  I  have  not  found  so  much 
trouble  in  this  respect  with  the  new  ball  as 
with  the  remade.  This,  I  opine,  is  attributable 
to  a  lack  of  care  in  remoulding. 

So  far,  the  honors  appear  to  rest  slightly 
with  the  guttie.  There  is,  however,  a  quality 
possessed  by  the  Haskell  which,  in  my  opinion, 
more  than  offsets  any  such  advantage — its 
greater  resiliency.  This  feature  enables  the 
ordinary  player  to  gain  much  greater  dis- 
tance than  with  the  guttie.  The  poorer  the 
player,  in  respect  of  distance,  the  greater  the 
gain,  and,  in  inverse  ratio,  the  less  the  actual 
gain  for  the  long  driver.  As  a  result  of  per- 
sonal experience  and  close,  general  observation, 
I  should  say  that  the  player  who  averages 
150  yards  with  a  guttie  can  get  165  yards 
with  a  Haskell,  and  so  on  in  a  descending 
scale.  There  practically  ceases  to  be  any 
appreciable  advantage  when  we  come  to  the 
190  or  200  yard  mark  with  the  player  using 
197 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

a  guttie — excepting  with  the  wind.  These, 
be  it  understood,  are  general  approximations. 
There  are,  singularly  enough,  isolated  ex- 
ceptions, working  both  ways.  For  instance, 
I  find  that  against  a  strong  wind  I  can  get 
several  yards  farther  with  a  guttie;  with  no 
wind  gain  from  5  to  10  yards  with  a  Haskell, 
and,  with  a  following  wind,  from  10  to  20  yards 
on  the  average.  Yet,  curiously,  other  players, 
of  equal  driving  strength  with  a  guttie,  can 
get  farther  against  the  wind  with  the  rubber- 
filled  ball  than  with  a  guttie,  while  the  other 
distances  remain  approximately  the  same.  The: 
harder  a  guttie  is  hit  the  greater  is  the  gain 
in  distance.  This  is  not  so,  to  the  same  extent, 
with  the  Haskell.  To  all  but  extraordinarily 
long  drivers  it  can,  however,  be  driven  some- 
what farther,  the  increase  in  distance  depend- 
ing largely  on  the  character  of  the  swing. 

Coming  now  to  iron  play,  it  is  here  that  the 
gain  is  greater,  proportionately,  than  off  wood, 
the  ball  itself  being  endued  with  a  greater 
measure  of  resiliency  than  the  guttie,  and 
therefore  being  capable  of  easier  and  longer 
propulsion.  Owing,  also,  to  this  quality,  it 
can  be  played  more  easily  out  of  a  poor  lie; 
and  there  is  not,  moreover,  any  jar  or  shock 
if  it  be  half-topped  or  hit  off  the  heel  or  toe. 

198 


THE      "HASKELL"      BALL 

In  approaching,  if  the  ordinary  stroke  be 
employed,  it  will  run  somewhat  farther  than 
the  guttie  after  alighting,  noticeably  so  on 
hard  ground,  and  allowance  requires  to  be 
made  accordingly.  But  under  ordinary  con- 
ditions, and  especially  when  the  ground  is 
soft,  it  will  pull  up  very  quickly  with  the  ap- 
plication of  decided  cut.  I  am  not  sure,  in- 
deed, but  that  the  tendency  to  run  after 
pitching  cannot  be  more  effectually  checked, 
under  favorable  conditions,  than  with  the 
guttie. 

As  a  putting  ball  I  consider  it  pre-eminent; 
and  I  make  this  assertion  in  full  knowledge 
of  the  fact  that  the  general  run  of  opinion  is 
dead  against  me.  It  is  true  that  it  is  livelier, 
and  responds  more  readily  to  the  slightest 
tap,  than  the  guttie,  and  therefore  calls  for 
greater  delicacy  of  touch;  but  this  very  fact, 
generally  regarded  as  a  defect,  is  precisely 
what  so  strongly  commends  it  to  me.  I  think 
one  can  "feel"  the  ball  better,  and  its  very 
liveliness  induces  a  tendency  to  putt  it — to 
go  through  with  the  stroke — rather  than  to 
hit  a  less  responsive  ball.  And  in  this  smooth 
and  delicate  performance  of  putting,  and  let- 
ting the  club  gently  and  harmoniously  follow 
through,  the  mind  is  never  disturbed  with  the 
199 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

thought  that  one  may  strike  the  ball  twice — 
it  leaves  the  club  too  quickly  for  that. 

One  thing  may,  however,  be  urged  against 
it:  it  has  a  trick  of  jumping  the  hole  if  going 
a  trifle  fast,  or  of  swerving  around  the  cup 
and  remaining  on  the  outside  unless  it  strikes 
plumb  against  the  centre  of  the  back.  The 
guttie  will  do  these  things,  too,  but  not  quite 
so  badly. 

On  the  other  hand,  these  defects  in  one  re- 
spect become  virtues  in  another,  as  I  do  not 
think  it  is  so  easily  diverted  from  the  line  by 
irregularities  of  surface  or  coarse  grass;  it 
seems  to  skim  over  them,  and  does  not  hug 
the  ground  so  closely  as  the  guttie. 


XVII 

ALUMINUM    CLUBS 

ALUMINUM  clubs  seem  to  be  growing  in 
favor.  Their  increasing  popularity  is  not 
merely  a  fad;  it  rests  upon  something  more 
substantial  than  passing  fancy  or  caprice 
— a  recognition  of  the  fact  that  they  possess 
certain  inherent  qualities  of  superiority  over 
the  iron  clubs  now  in  use. 

The  first  of  these  clubs  that  attracted  at- 
tention was  the  Mills  putter — a  reproduction 
of  an  old  Philp  wooden  putter.  Its  success 
was  instantaneous.  It  may  be  said  to  com- 
bine all  the  merits  of  the  wooden  putter  with- 
out any  of  its  demerits.  Being  made  of  metal, 
it  is  not  affected  by  weather  conditions;  it  is 
impervious  to  rain  or  heat,  and  therefore  the 
face  never  becomes  spongy  or  cracks;  there 
is  no  horn,  and  no  lead  to  get  out  of  place 
and  affect  the  balance — and  it  is  practically 
indestructible. 

201 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

The  chief  objections  which  lie  against  the 
wooden  putter  may  be  summarized  as  follows: 
it  imparts  too  much  run  to  the  ball  commensu- 
rate with  the  force  employed,  and  is  therefore 
objectionable  on  a  keen  green,  except  to  the 
naturally  good  putter;  it  is  a  very  difficult 
matter  to  get  the  lead  put  in  exactly  right; 
the  face  is  not  homogeneous,  by  reason  of  the 
inset  of  horn  on  the  sole,  and  it  gets  more  or 
less  spongy  in  wet  weather,  and  wet  also  pro- 
vokes cracks;  and  it  does  not  last  so  long  as 
its  metal  brethren. 

The  more  salient  countervailing  advan- 
tages of  its  aluminum  prototype  have  already 
been  mentioned.  To  these  may  be  added 
the  fact  that,  being  homogeneous  throughout, 
it  is  much  easier  to  get  the  centre  of  gravity 
positively  fixed  and  determinate  with  absolute 
uniformity  in  each  and  every  model;  and 
this  centre  of  gravity  being  right  in  the  middle 
of  the  club,  no  long  apprenticeship  has  to  be 
served,  as  in  the  case  of  the  wooden  putter 
— and  also  to  some  extent  with  all  iron  clubs 
—to  ascertain  the  particular  point  with  which 
the  ball  should  be  struck  to  cause  it  to  run 
straight.  Then,  again,  the  ball  does  not 
jump  off  the  face,  or  run  quite  so  far,  as  with 
the  wooden  weapon.  Its  shape,  moreover, 
202 


ALUMINUM      CLUBS 

encourages  a  disposition  to  go  through  the 
ball  with  the  stroke  rather  than  hit  it;  and, 
having  a  wider  sole  than  any  iron  putter,  it 
finds,  automatically,  the  natural  and  correct 
angle.  In  this  respect  it  possesses  a  marked 
advantage  over  irons. 

Copying  the  wooden  putter  having  proved 
such  a  practical  success,  it  was  a  natural 
and  easy  step  to  take  up  the  manufacture 
of  the  old-time  spoons,  in  aluminum.  This 
reversion  to  first  principles  is  somewhat  in- 
teresting. 

The  limited  longevity  of  the  wooden  spoons 
and  the  greater  range  of  work  of  which  irons 
— virtually  indestructible — were  capable  in  the 
hands  of  first-class  players,  notably  young 
Tommy  Morris,  gradually  led  to  the  almost 
universal  employment  of  the  latter.  There 
was  not  the  care  bestowed  on  courses  then 
as  at  present,  and  poor  lies  were  more  fre- 
quently encountered.  With  the  narrow  sole  of 
an  iron  it  was  easier  to  nip  the  ball  out  of  a 
bad  lie — as  it  is  now,  even  with  any  kind  of 
aluminum  club,  plentiful  though  the  various 
models  are.  Nowadays,  however,  the  lies  on 
most  courses  are  so  generally  good  through 
the  green,  and  spoons  are  so  much  easier  to 
play  with  than  irons — even  out  of  long  grass, 
203 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

if  one  should  get  off  the  course,  as  who  does 
not? — that  they  are  bound  to  come  into  favor 
again,  slowly,  perhaps,  but  surely.  But  they 
will  not  be  made  wholly  of  wood,  as  of  yore. 

Aluminum  clubs  may  now  be  obtained  to 
cover  the  entire  set.  Personally,  I  do  not  find 
any  advantage  in  the  driver  or  brassey,  but 
for  the  rest  I  think  there  are  certain  points 
of  merit.  In  the  first  place,  as  already  re- 
marked, the  centre  of  gravity — unlike  most 
irons — resides  in  the  centre  of  the  head,  ir- 
respective of  the  model;  consequently  there 
is  less  liability  of  slicing  or  pulling.  Then, 
again,  the  broader  sole  admits  of  more  margin 
for  error  and  does  not  demand  the  same  degree 
of  accuracy,  for  if  the  ground  be  struck  be- 
hind the  ball  the  stroke  is  not  robbed  of  any 
material  power;  the  broader  sole  prevents  the 
club  sinking  into  the  ground  to  far  less  extent 
than  with  an  iron;  it  skids  more  along  the 
surface,  and  does  not  dig  up  anything  like  the 
same  amount  of  turf  to  come  between  the 
club  head  and  the  ball  that  an  iron  does  in 
like  circumstances. 

Out  of  long   grass   an   aluminum   club  is 

much  better  than  an  iron,   both  for  distance 

and  accuracy.     With   most  irons — depending 

largely  on  the  length  of  the  socket  or  hose 

204 


ALUMINUM      CLUBS 

—the  actual  centre  of  gravity  lies  more  towards 
the  heel;  consequently  the  resistance  offered 
by  the  grass  before  the  ball  is  reached  does 
not  act  uniformly  on  either  side  of  the  centre 
of  the  face.  The  toe  is  slightly  pulled  in 
and  the  ball  does  not  rise  so  quickly,  and  is 
also  more  or  less  hooked.  With  aluminums 
it  is  different;  the  centre  of  gravity  is  right 
in  the  centre  of  the  head;  pressure  is  thereby 
exerted  evenly,  and  there  is  not  the  same  chance 
of  a  twist  creeping  in. 

Another  good  feature  of  these  clubs  is  that 
the  degree  of  angle  of  the  face,  or  the  lie,  may 
very  easily  be  changed  to  suit  individual 
tastes  by  the  simple  use  of  a  file;  or  lead  may 
be  added  to  increase  the  weight,  if  desired 

Still  another  point  that  may  perhaps  be 
worthy  of  notice  is  that  aluminums  never  rust, 
and,  consequently,  never  require  cleaning. 


THE   RULES  OF  GOLF 

AS  APPROVED   BY 

THE  ROYAL  AND  ANCIENT  GOLF  CLUB 

OF    ST.    ANDREWS 
IN  1899 

With  Rulings  and  Interpretations  by  the 
Executive  Committee  of 

THE  UNITED   STATES  GOLF   ASSOCIATION 
IN  1900 


PREFA CE 

THE  United  States  Golf  Association,  in  making 
these  Rulings  and  Interpretations,  has  made  no 
change  in  the  wording,  nor  in  the  import,  of  the 
Rules  of  Golf,  as  adopted  by  the  Royal  and  An- 
cient Golf  Club  of  St.  Andrews,  but  has  only  add- 
ed such  definitions  and  explanations  as  appeared 
to  be  called  for,  or  suggested  by  custom  and  de- 
cisions of  competent  experts. 


RULES    OF    GOLF 

I.  DEFINITIONS  :— (a)  The  Game  of  Golf  is  played  by 
sides,  each  playing  its  own  ball.  A  side  consists  either 
of  one  or  of  two  players.  If  one  player  play  against  another, 
the  match  is  called  "a  single."  If  two  play  against  two, 
it  is  called  "  a  foursome."  A  single  player  may  play  against 
two,  when  the  match  is  called  "a  threesome,"  or  three  players 
may  play  against  each  other,  each  playing  his  own  ball, 
when  the  match  is  called  "  a  three- ball  match." 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

"Match  Play"  is  decided  by  the  number  of 
holes  won. 

"  Medal  Play "  is  decided  by  the  aggregate 
number  of  strokes. 

"Colonel  Bogey"  is  an  imaginary  opponent, 
against  whose  arbitrary  score  each  competitor 
plays  by  holes ;  otherwise  bogey  competitions  are 
governed  by  the  Special  Rules  for  Stroke  Com- 
petitions, except  that  a  competitor  loses  the  hole : 

When  his  ball  is  lost. 

When  his  ball  is  not  played  where  it  lies,  except 
as  otherwise  provided  for  in  the  Rules. 

(6)  The  game  consists  in  each  side  playing  a  ball  from  a 
O  209 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

teeing-ground  into  a  hole  by  successive  strokes,  and  the  hole 
is  won  by  the  side  jvhich  holes  its  ball  in  fewer  strokes  than 
the  opposite  side,  except  as  otherwise  provided  for  in  the 
Rules.  If  the  sides  hole  out  in  the  same  number  of  strokes, 
the  hole  is  halved. 


RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

In  Competitions  : 

In  Match  Play,  when  two  competitors  have 
halved  their  match,  they  shall  continue  playing 
hole  by  hole  till  one  or  the  other  shall  have  won 
a  hole,  which  shall  determine  the  winner  of  the 
match. 

Should  the  match  play  competition  be  a  handi- 
cap, the  competitors  must  decide  the  tie  by  playing 
either  one  hole,  three  or  five  more  holes,  according 
to  the  manner  in  which  the  handicap  ceded  falls 
upon  certain  holes  so  as  to  make  the  extra  holes 
a  fairly  proportionate  representation  of  the  round. 

In  Medal  Play,  when  two  or  more  competitors 
are  tied,  the  winner  shall  be  determined  by  an- 
other round  of  the  course;  except  that  By-laws 
15  and  19  of  the  United  States  Golf  Association 
provide  that,  in  case  of  ties  for  the  sixteenth  place 
in  the  Amateur  Championship  medal  rounds,  or 
the  eighth  place  in  the  Women's  Championship 
medal  rounds,  respectively,  the  contestants  so 
tied  shall  continue  to  play  until  one  or  the  other 
shall  have  gained  a  lead  by  strokes,  the  hole  or 
holes  to  be  played  out. 

210 


RULES      OF      GOLF 

(c)  The  teeing-ground  shall  be  indicated  by  two  marks 
placed  in  a  line,  as  nearly  as  possible  at  right  angles  to  the 
course. 

The  holes  shall  be  four  and  one-quarter  inches  in  diameter, 
and  at  least  four  inches  deep. 

(d)  The   term   "  putting  -  green  "   shall   mean   all    ground 
within  twenty  yards  of  the  hole,  except  hazards. 

(e)  A  "  hazard  "  shall  be  any  bunker,  water  (except  casual 
water),  sand,  path,  road,  railway,  whin,  bush,  rushes,  rab- 
bit scrape,  fence,  or  ditch.     Sand  blown  on  to  the  grass,  or 
sprinkled  on  the  course  for  its  preservation,  bare  patches, 
snow  and  ice  are  not  hazards.     Permanent  grass  within  a 
hazard  shall  not  be  considered  part  of  the  hazard 


RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Any  permanent  obstruction  of  the  course  shall 
be  a  hazard. 

(/)  The  term  "  through  the  green  "  shall  mean  all  parts  of 
the  course  except  "  hazards  "  and  the  putting-green  which 
is  being  played  to. 

(g)  The  term  "  out  of  bounds  "  shall  mean  any  place  out- 
side the  denned  or  recognized  boundaries  of  the  course. 

(h)  "  Casual  water  "  shall  mean  any  temporary  accumula- 
tion of  water  (whether  caused  by  rainfall  or  otherwise)  which 
is  not  one  of  the  ordinary  and  recognized  hazards  of  the 
course. 

(i)  A  ball  shall  be  "  in  play  "  as  soon  as  the  player  has  made 
a  stroke  at  the  teeing-ground  in  each  hole,  and  shall  remain 
in  play  until  holed  out,  except  when  lifted  in  accordance  with 
the  Rules. 

(/)  A  ball  shall  be  considered  to  have  "  moved  "  only  if  it 
leave  its  original  position  in  the  least  degree,  and  stop  in 
another ;  but  if  it  merely  oscillate,  without  finally  leaving 

211 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

its  original  position,  it  shall  not  be  considered  to  have 
"  moved." 

(k)  A  ball  shall  be  considered  "  lost  "  if  it  be  not  found  with- 
in five  minutes  after  the  search  for  it  is  begun. 

(/)  A  "  match  "  shall  consist  of  one  round  of  the  links, 
unless  it  be  otherwise  agreed. 

A  match  is  won  by  the  side  which  is  leading  by  a  number 
of  holes  greater  than  the  number  of  holes  remaining  to  be 
played.  If  each  side  win  the  same  number  of  holes,  the 
match  is  halved. 

(ra)  A  "  stroke  "  shall  be  any  movement  of  the  ball  caused 
by  the  player,  except  as  provided  for  in  Rule  4,  or  any  down- 
ward movement  of  the  club  made  with  the  intention  of  strik- 
ing the  ball. 

(n)  A  "  penalty  stroke  "  is  a  stroke  added  to  the  score  of  a 
side  under  certain  rules,  and  shall  not  affect  the  rotation  of 
play. 

(o)  The  privilege  of  playing  first  from  a  teeing-ground  is 
called  "  the  honor." 

(p)  "  Addressing  the  ball  "  shall  mean  that  a  player  has 
taken  up  his  position  and  grounded  his  club,  or,  if  in  a  hazard, 
that  he  has  taken  up  his  position  preparatory  to  striking  the 
ball. 

(q)  The  reckoning  of  the  strokes  is  kept  by  the  terms — 
"the  odd,"  "two  more,"  "three  more,"  etc.,  and  "one  off  three," 
"one  off  two,"  "the  like."  The  reckoning  of  holes  is  kept 
by  the  terms — so  many  "holes  up,"  or  "all  even,"  and  so 
many  "to  play." 

2.  A  match  begins  by  each  side  playing  a  ball  from  the 
first  teeing-ground. 

The  player  who  shall  play  first  on  each  side  shall  be  named 
by  his  own  side. 

The  option  of  taking  the  honor  at  the  first  teeing-ground 
shall  be  decided,  if  necessary,  by  lot. 

A  ball  played  from  in  front  of,  or  outside  of,  or  more  than 
two  club-lengths  behind  the  two  marks  indicating  the  teeing- 

212 


R  U  L  E  S     O  F       GOLF 

ground,  or  played  by  a  player  when  his  opponent  should 
have  had  the  honor,  may  be  at  once  recalled  by  the  opposite 
side,  and  may  be  re-teed. 

The  side  which  wins  a  hole  shall  have  the  honor  at  the  next 
teeing-ground.  If  a  hole  has  been  halved  the  side  which 
had  the  honor  at  the  last  teeing-ground  shall  again  have  the 
honor. 

On  beginning  a  new  match  the  winner  of  the  long  match 
in  the  previous  round  shall  have  the  honor,  or  if  the  previous 
match  was  halved  the  side  which  last  won  a  hole  shall  have 
the  honor. 


RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Penalty  for  playing  ball  outside  of  the  limits  of 
teeing-ground  : 

In  Match  Play,  the  ball  may  be  at  once  recalled 
by  the  opponent,  no  stroke  being  counted  for 
the  misplay. 

In  Medal  Play,  disqualification. 

Penalty  for  leading  off  the  tee  out  of  turn : 

In  Match  Play,  the  ball  may  be  at  once  recalled 

by  the  opponent,  no  stroke  being  counted  for  the 

misplay. 

In  Medal  Play,  no  penalty — but  it  is  customary 

in  Medal  Play  to  observe  the  honor. 

3.  A  player  shall  not  play  while  his  ball  is  moving,  under 
the  penalty  of  the  loss  of  the  hole.  But  if  the  ball  begin  to 
move  while  the  player  is  making  his  upward  or  downward 
swing,  he  shall  incur  no  penalty,  except  as  provided  for  in 

213 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

Rules  10,  18,  and  27,  and  a  stroke  lost  under  Rule  27  shall 
not  in  these  circumstances  be  counted  as  a  stroke  of  the 
player. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Penalty  for  playing  a  moving  ball  [except  at  the  tee] : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 

In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 

But  if  the  ball  move  while  the  player  is  making 
his  upward  or  downward  swing  a  penalty  is  only 
incurred  if  the  player  is  deemed  to  have  caused  it 
to  move,  under  Rules  10  and  1 8,  by  moving  or 
touching  any  loose  impediment,  or  under  Rule 
27,  by  grounding  his  club,  or  in  a  hazard,  by  tak- 
ing his  stand  to  play  it,  in  which  cases  the  pen- 
alty shall  be : 

In  Match  Play,  one  stroke. 

In  Medal  Play,  one  stroke. 

4.  If  the  ball  fall  or  be  knocked  off  the  tee  in  addressing  it, 
no  penalty  shall  be  incurred,  and  it  may  be  replaced,  and  if 
struck  when  moving  no  penalty  shall  be  incurred. 

5.  In  a  threesome  or  foursome  the  partners  shall  strike  off 
alternately  from  the  teeing-grounds,  and  shall  strike  alter- 
nately during  the  play  of  the  hole. 

If  a  player  play  when  his  partner  should  have  done  so, 
his  side  shall  lose  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 
214 


RULES      OF     GOLF 

6.  When  the  balls  are  in  play,  the  ball  farthest  from  the 
hole   which   the   players   are  approaching   shall   be  played 
first,  except  as  otherwise  provided  for  in  the  Rules.     If  a 
player  play  when  his  opponent   should  have  done  so,  the 
opponent  may  at  once  recall  the  stroke.     A  ball  so  recalled 
shall    be  dropped  as  near   as   possible   to  the   place  where 
it  lay  without  penalty. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

"Otherwise  provided  for"  in  Rule  32,  and  Medal 
Rule  ii. 
Penalty  for  playing  out  of  turn : 

In  Match  Play,  ball  may  be  at  once  recalled  by 
the  opponent,  no  stroke  being  counted  for  the 
misplay.  . 

In  Medal  Play,  no  penalty — the  ball  may  not 
be  recalled. 

7.  The  ball  must  be  fairly  struck  at,  not  pushed,  scraped, 
nor  spooned,  under  penalty  of  the  loss  of  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty  : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 

8.  A  ball  must  be  played  wherever  it  lies  or  the  hole  be 
given  up,  except  as  otherwise  provided  for  in  the  Rules. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A 

"Otherwise  provided  for"  in  Rules  9,  II,  13, 
15,  17,  22,  23,  28,  31,  32,  34. 

215 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

Penalty  : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 

In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes,  except  otherwise 
provided  for  in  Medal  Rules  6,  8,  9,  10,  II. 

9.  Unless  with  the  opponent's  consent,  a  ball  in  play  shall 
not  be  moved,  nor  touched  before  the  hole  is  played  out,  under 
penalty  of  one  stroke,  except  as  otherwise  provided  for  in  the 
Rules.     But  the  player  may  touch  his  ball  with  his  club  in 
the  act  of  addressing  it  without  penalty. 

If  the  player's  ball  move  the  opponent's  ball  through  the 
green,  the  opponent,  if  he  choose,  may  drop  a  ball  (without 
penalty)  as  near  as  possible  to  the  place  where  it  lay,  but 
this  must  be  done  before  another  stroke  is  played. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

"Otherwise  provided  for"  in  Rules  11,  13,  15, 
17,  22,  23,  28,  31,  32,  34,  and  Medal  Rules  6,  8, 
9,  10,  ii. 

Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  for  moving  or  touching,  one 
stroke. 

In  Medal  Play,  one  stroke. 

If  a  competitor's  ball  be  displaced  by  another 
competitor's  ball  it  must  be  replaced,  or  its  owner 
shall  be  disqualified. 

10.  Any  loose  impediment  (not  being  in  or  touching  a 
hazard)  which  is  within  a  club -length  of  the  ball  may  be 
removed.     If  the  player's  ball  move  after  any  such  loose 
impediment  has  been  touched  by  the  player,  his  partner,  or 
either  of  their  caddies,  the  penalty  shall  be  one  stroke.     If 

216 


RULES      OF      GOLF 

any  loose  impediment  (not  being  on  the  putting-green)  which 
is  more  than  a  club -length  from  the  ball  be  removed,  the 
penalty  shall  be  the  loss  of  the  hole 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Penalty  for  ball  moved  (not  in  hazard)  after  re- 
moving loose  impediment  within  club -length  of 
the  ball : 

In  Match  Play,  one  stroke. 
In  Medal  Play,  one  stroke. 

Through  the  green,  for  removing  loose  impediment 
more  than  a  club-length  from  the  ball : 
In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 

II.  Any  vessel,  wheelbarrow,  tool,  roller,  grass-cutter,  box, 
or  similar  obstruction  may  be  removed.  If  a  ball  be  moved 
in  so  doing,  it  may  be  replaced  without  penalty.  A  ball  ly- 
ing on  or  touching  such  obstruction,  or  on  clothes,  nets,  or 
ground  under  repair  or  covered  up  or  opened  for  the  purpose 
of  the  upkeep  of  the  links,  may  be  lifted  and  dropped  without 
penalty,  as  near  as  possible  to  the  place  where  it  lay,  but  not 
nearer  the  hole.  A  ball  lifted  in  a  hazard,  under  such  circum- 
stances, shall  be  dropped  in  the  hazard. 

A  ball  lying  in  a  golf-hole  or  flag-hole,  or  in  a  hole  made  by 
the  green-keeper,  may  be  lifted  and  dropped  without  penalty 
as  near  as  possible  to  the  place  where  it  lay,  but  not  nearer  the 
hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

"As  near  as  possible"  shall  mean  within  a 
club-length. 

217 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

If  a  ball  lie  on  or  within  a  club-length  of  a  drain- 
cover,  water-pipe,  or  hydrant,  it  may  be  lifted  and 
dropped  without  penalty  as  near  as  possible  to 
the  place  where  it  lay,  but  not  nearer  the  hole. 

12.  Before  striking  at  a  ball  in  play,  the  player  shall  not 
move,  bend,  nor  break  anything  fixed  or  growing  near  the 
ball,  except  in  the  act  of  placing  his  feet  on  the  ground  for 
the  purpose  of  addressing  the  ball,  in  soling  his  club  to  ad- 
dress the  ball,  and  in  his  upward  or  downward  swing,  under 
penalty  of  the  loss  of  the  hole,  except  as  otherwise  provided 
for  in  the  Rules. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

"Otherwise  provided  for"  in  Rules  II,  13,  30. 
Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 

13.  When  a  ball  lies  in  or  touches  a  hazard,  nothing  shall 
be  done  to  improve  its  lie ;  the  club  shall  not  touch  the  ground, 
nor  shall  anything  be  touched  or  moved  before  the  player 
strikes  at  the  ball,  subject  to  the  following  exceptions  : — 
(i)  The  player  may  place  his  feet  firmly  on  the  ground  for 
the  purpose  of  addressing  the  ball ;  (2)  In  addressing  the  ball, 
or  in  the  upward  or  downward  swing,  any  grass,  bent,  whin, 
or  other  growing  substance,  or  the  side  of  a  bunker,  wall, 
paling,  or  other  immovable  obstacle  may  be  touched;  (3) 
Steps  or  planks  placed  in  a  hazard  by  the  Green  Committee 
for  access  to  or  egress  from  such  hazard  may  be  removed, 
and  if  a  ball  be  moved  in  so  doing,  it  may  be  replaced  without 
penalty;  (4)  Any  loose  impediments  may  be  removed  from 
the  putting-green;  (5)  The  player  shall  be  entitled  to  find 

218 


RULES       OF      GOLF 

his  ball  as  provided  for  by  Rule  30.    The  penalty  for  a  breach 
of  this  Rule  shall  be  the  loss  of  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 

14.  A  player  or  caddie  shall  not  press  down  nor  remove 
any  irregularities  of  surface  near  a  ball  in  play.     Dung, 
worm-casts,  or  mole-hills  may  be  removed  (but  not  pressed 
down)  without  penalty.     The  penalty  for  a  breach  of  this 
Rule  shall  be  the  loss  of  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 

In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 

Pressing  down  the  surface  behind  the  ball  by 
prolonged  or  forcible  grounding  of  the  club  shall 
be  deemed  a  breach  of  this  Rule. 

15.  If  a  ball  lie  or  be  lost  in  water,  the  player  may  drop  a 
ball,  under  penalty  of  one  stroke.     But  if  a  ball  lie  or  be  lost 
(i)  in  casual  water  through  the  green,  a  ball  may  be  dropped 
without  penalty ;  (2)  in  water  in  a  hazard,  or  in  casual  water 
in  a  hazard,  a  ball  may  be  dropped  behind  the  hazard,  under 
penalty  of  one  stroke  ;  (3)  in  casual  water  on  a  putting-green,  a 
ball  may  be  placed  by  hand  behind  the  water,  without  penalty. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  one  stroke. 
219 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

In  Medal  Play,  one  stroke. 

A  ball  lifted  from  a  recognized  water  hazard 
may  be  dropped  under  a  penalty  of  one  stroke, 
even  if  the  hazard  be  dry  at  the  time. 

If  the  water  in  a  recognized  water  hazard  over- 
flow its  usual  boundaries  the  overflowed  portion 
of  the  course  shall  be  considered  as  part  of  the 
hazard,  and  not  as  casual  water. 

If  a  ball  lie  or  be  lost  in  casual  water  in  a  hazard, 
a  ball  may  be  dropped  without  penalty,  behind  the 
water,  but  in  the  hazard,  keeping  the  spot,  where 
it  entered  the  water,  in  line  to  the  hole. 

16.  When  a  ball  has  to  be  dropped,  the  player  himself 
shall  drop  it.  He  shall  face  the  hole,  stand  erect  behind  the 
hazard  or  casual  water,  keep  the  spot  from  which  the  ball 
was  lifted  (or  in  the  case  of  water  or  casual  water,  the  spot 
at  which  it  entered)  in  a  line  between  himself  and  the  hole, 
and  drop  the  ball  behind  him  from  his  head,  standing  as  far 
behind  the  hazard  or  casual  water  as  he  may  please.  If  it 
be  impossible  to  drop  the  ball  behind  the  hazard  or  casual 
water,  it  shall  be  dropped  as  near  as  possible  to  the  place 
where  it  lay,  but  not  nearer  the  hole.  If  the  ball  so  dropped 
touch  the  player  dropping  it,  there  shall  be  no  further  penalty, 
and  if  the  ball  roll  into  a  hazard,  it  may  be  re-dropped  without 
further  penalty. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Penalty  for  a  ball  not  dropping  in  accordance  with 
this  Rule : 
In  Match  Play,  the  opponent  may  call  for  the 

220 


RULES      OF     GOLF 

player  to  drop  again;  if  the  request  be  not  com- 
plied with,  the  player  shall  Jose  the  hole. 

In  Medal  Play,  the  ball  must  be  dropped  again 
or  the  competitor  disqualified. 

17.  When  the  balls  lie  within  six  inches  of  each  other  on  a 
putting-green,  or  within  a  club  -  length  of  each  other  through 
the  green  or  in  a  hazard  (the  distance  to  be  measured  from 
their  nearest  points),  the  ball  nearer  the  hole  may,  at  the  option 
of  either  the  player  or  the  opponent,  be  lifted  until  the  other  is 
played,  and  shall  then  be  replaced  as  near  as  possible  to  the 
place  where  it  lay.     If  the  ball  farther  from  the  hole  be  moved 
in  so  doing,  or  in  measuring  the  distance,  it  shall  be  replaced 
without  penalty.     If  the  lie  of  the  lifted  ball  be  altered  by  the 
player  in  playing,  the  ball  may  be  placed  in  a  lie  as  nearly  as 
possible  similar  to  that  from  which  it  was  lifted,  but  not  nearer 
the  hole. 

1 8.  Any  loose  impediments  may  be  removed  from  the  putt- 
ing-green, irrespective  of  the  position  of  the  player's  ball. 
The  opponent's  ball  may  not  be  moved  except  as  provided 
for  by  the  immediately  preceding  Rule.     If  the  player's  ball 
move  after  any  loose  impediment  lying  within  six  inches 
of  it  has  been  touched  by  the  player,  his  partner,  or  either  of 
their  caddies,  the  penalty  shall  be  one  stroke. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  one  stroke. 
In  Medal  Play,  one  stroke. 

19.  When  the  ball  is  on  the  putting-green  the  player  or  his 
caddie  may  remove  (but  not  press  down)  sand,  earth,  dung, 
worm-casts,  mole-hills,   snow,   or  ice  lying  round  the  hole 
or  in  the  line  of  his  putt.     This  shall  be  done  by  brushing 

221 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

lightly  with  the  hand  only  across  the  putt  and  not  along  it. 
Dung  may  be  removed  by  a  club,  but  the  club  must  not  be 
laid  with  more  than  its  own  weight  upon  the  ground.  The 
line  of  the  putt  must  not  be  touched,  except  with  the  club 
immediately  in  front  of  the  ball,  in  the  act  of  addressing  it, 
or  as  above  authorized.  The  penalty  for  a  breach  of  this 
Rule  is  the  loss  of  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 

In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 

The  "  line  of  the  putt "  does  not  extend  beyond 
the  hole. 

The  "player  or  his  caddie"  shall  include  his 
partner  or  his  partner's  caddie. 

20.  When  the  ball  is  on  the  putting-green,  no  mark  shall 
be  placed,  nor  line  drawn  as  a  guide.  The  line  of  the  putt 
may  be  pointed  out  by  the  player's  caddie,  his  partner,  or 
his  partner's  caddie,  but  the  person  doing  so  must  not  touch 
the  ground. 

The  player's  caddie,  his  partner,  or  his  partner's  caddie, 
may  stand  at  the  hole,  but  no  player  nor  caddie  shall  endeavor, 
by  moving  or  otherwise,  to  influence  the  action  of  the  wind 
upon  the  ball. 

The  penalty  for  a  breach  of  this  Rule  is  the  loss  of  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 
222 


RULES      OP      GOLF 

21.  When  on  the  putting-green,  a  player  shall  not  play 
until  the  opponent's  ball  is  at  rest,  under   penalty  of  one 
stroke. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  .A. 
Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  one  stroke. 
In  Medal  Play,  one  stroke. 

22.  Either  side  is  entitled  to  have  a  flag-stick  removed 
when  approaching  the  hole.     If  the  ball  rest  against  the 
flag-stick  when  in  the  hole,  the  player  shall  be  entitled  to 
remove  the  stick,  and,  if  the  ball  fall  in,  it  shall  be  deemed  as 
having  been  holed  out  at  the  last  stroke.     If  the  player's 
ball  knock  in  the  opponent's  ball,  the  latter  shall  be  deemed 
as  having  been  holed  out  at  the  last  stroke.     If  the  player's 
ball  move  the  opponent's  ball,  the  opponent,  if  he  choose, 
may  replace  it,  but  this  must  be  done  before  another  stroke 
is  played.     If  the  player's  ball  stop  on  the  spot  formerly 
occupied  by  the  opponent's  ball,  and  the  opponent  declare 
his  intention  to  replace,  the  player  shall  first  play  another 
stroke,  after  which  the  opponent  shall  replace  and  play  his 
ball.     If  the  opponent's  ball  lie  on  the  edge  of  the  hole,  the 
player,  after  holing  out,  may  knock  it  away,  claiming  the 
hole  if  holing  at  the  like,  and  the  half  if  holing  at  the  odd, 
provided  that  the  player's  ball  does  not  strike  the  opponent's 
ball  and  set  it  in   motion.      If  after  the  player's  ball  is  in 
the  hole,  the  player  neglect  to  knock  away  the  opponent's 
ball,  and  it  fall  in  also,  the  opponent  shall  be  deemed  to  have 
holed  out  at  his  last  stroke. 


RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Penalty — //  player's  ball  knock  in  the  other  ball : 

223 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

In  Match  Play,  the  latter  shall  be  counted  as 
holed  out  in  the  last  stroke. 

In  Medal  Play,  the  latter  must  be  replaced  or 
its  owner  disqualified. 

— //  player's  ball  displace  the  other  ball : 

In  Match  Play,  the  other  ball  may  be  replaced 

at  its  owner's  option,  but  this  must  be  done  before 

another  stroke  is  played. 

In  Medal  Play,  the  other  ball  must  be  replaced 

or  its  owner  disqualified. 

23.  If  a  ball  in  motion  be  stopped  or  deflected  by  any 
agency  outside  the  match,  or  by  the  forecaddie,  the  ball  must 
be  played  from  where  it  lies,  and  the  occurrence  submitted 
to  as  a  "  rub  of  the  green."  If  a  ball  lodge  in  anything  mov- 
ing, a  ball  shall  be  dropped  as  near  as  possible  to  the  place 
where  the  object  was  when  the  ball  lodged  in  it,  without 
penalty.  If  a  ball  at  rest  be  displaced  by  any  agency  outside 
the  match,  excepting  wind,  the  player  shall  drop  a  ball  as  near 
as  possible  to  the  place  where  it  lay,  without  penalty.  On 
the  putting-green  the  ball  shall  be  replaced  by  hand,  without 
penalty. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Ball  at  rest  displaced : 

In  Match  Play,  must  be  dropped,  or,  if  on  putting- 
green,  replaced,  as  near  as  possible  to  where  it  lay, 
or  the  hole  shall  be  lost. 

In  Medal  Play,  must  be  replaced  as  near  as 
possible  to  where  it  lay,  or  its  owner  must  be  dis- 
qualified. 

224 


RULES      OF     GOLF 

24.  If  the  pla>^er's  ball  strike,  or  be  moved  by  an  opponent  or 
an  opponent's  caddie  or  clubs,  the  opponent  shall  lose  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty  incurred : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 

In  Medal  Play,  no  penalty. 

If  the  player's  ball  strike  the  other  competitor,  or  his 
caddie  or  clubs,  it  is  a  "  rub  of  the  green  "  and  the  ball 
shall  be  played  from  where  it  lies.  If  a  peer's  ball 
at  rest  be  moved  by  the  other  competitor  or  his  caddie, 
the  ball  must  be  replaced  or  the  player  disqualified. 

25.  If  the  player's  ball  strike,  or  be  stopped  by,  himself, 
or  his  partner,  or  either  of  their  caddies  or  clubs,  his  side 
shall  lose  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty  : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  one  stroke. 

26.  If  the  player,  when  making  a  stroke,  strike  the  ball 
twice,  the  penalty  shall  be  one  stroke. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty  : 

In  Match  Play,  one  stroke. 
In  Medal  Play,  one  stroke. 

27.  If  the  plaj^er,  when  not  intending  to  make  a  stroke, 
or  his  partner,  or  either  of  their  caddies,  move  his  or  their 
ball,  or  by  touching  anything  cause  it  to  move,  when  it  is 
in  play,  the  penalty  shall  be  one  stroke.     If  a  ball  in  play 

P  225 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

move,  after  the  player  has  grounded  his  club  in  the  act  of 
addressing  it,  or,  when  in  a  hazard,  if  he  has  taken  up  his 
stand  to  play  it,  he  shall  be  deemed  to  have  caused  it  to  be 
moved,  and  shall  lose  a  stroke,  which  shall  be  counted  as  a 
stroke  of  the  player,  except  as  provided  in  Rule  3. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Penalty  for  moving  the  ball  or  causing  it  to  be  moved, 
as  under  Rules  10  and  1 8  : 
In  Match  Play,  one  stroke. 
In  Medal  Play,  one  stroke. 

28.  If  a  player  play  the  opponent's  ball,  his  side  shall  lose  the 
hole,  unless  (i)  the  opponent  then  play  the  player's  ball,  where- 
by the  penalty  is  cancelled,  and  the  hole  must  be  played  out  with 
the  balls  thus  exchanged,  or  (2)  the  mistake  occur  through  wrong 
information  given  by  the  opponent  or  his  caddie,  in  which  case 
there  shall  be  no  penalty,  but  the  mistake,  if  discovered  before 
the  opponent  has  played,  must  be  rectified  by  placing  a  ball 
as  near  as  possible  to  the  place  where  the  opponent's  ball  lay. 

If  it  be  discovered  before  either  side  has  struck  off  from 
the  next  teeing-ground  (or,  after  playing  the  last  hole  in  the 
match,  before  any  of  the  players  have  left  the  green)  that  one 
side  has  played  out  the  hole  with  the  ball  of  a  party  not  en- 
gaged in  the  match,  that  side  shall  lose  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty  for  breach  of  this  Rule  : 

1st.  Playing   the   opponent's    ball    with   excep- 
tions (i)  and  (2)  above  noted  in  the  Rule: 
In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  no  penalty.     The  ball  must  be 
replaced. 

226 


RULES      OF      GOLF 

2d.  Playing  out  with  the  ball  of  a  party  not 
engaged  in  the  match: 

In  Match  Play,  if  discovered  before  the  next 
tee  stroke,  loss  of  the  hole. 

In  Medal  Play,  the  player  must  go  back  and 
play  his  own  ball,  or,  not  finding  it,  return  as  near 
as  possible  to  the  spot  where  it  was  last  struck, 
tee  another  ball,  and  lose  a  stroke  (Rule  6,  Medal 
Play)  or  else  be  disqualified. 

29.  If  a  ball  be  lost,  except  as  otherwise  provided  for  in 
the  Rules,  the  player's  side  shall  lose  the  hole,  but  if  both 
balls  be  lost,  the  hole  shall  be  considered  halved. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
"Otherwise  provided  for"  in  Rules  15,  31. 
Penalty  for  lost  ball : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 

In  Medal  Play,  the  competitor  must  return  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  spot  from  which  the  lost 
ball  was  struck,  tee  a  ball,  and  lose  a  stroke. 

30.  If  a  ball  be  lost  in  fog,  bent,  whins,  long  grass,  or  the 
like,  only  so  much  thereof  shall  be  touched  as  will  enable  the 
player  to  find  his  ball,     The  penalty  for  a  breach  of  this 
Rule  shall  be  the  loss  of  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  two  strokes. 
227 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

31.  If  a  ball  be  driven  out  of  bounds,  a  ball  shall  be  dropped 
at  the  spot  from  which  the  stroke  was  played,  under  penalty 
of  loss  of  the  distance. 

Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  distance. 
In  Medal  Play,  loss  of  the  distance. 

32.  In  a  three-ball  match,  if  a  player  consider  that  an 
opponent's  ball  on  the  putting-green  might  interfere  with 
his  stroke,  he  may  require  the  opponent  either  to  lift  or  hole 
out  his  ball  at  the  opponent's  discretion. 

If  an  opponent  consider  (i)  that  his  own  ball,  if  left,  might 
be  of  assistance  to  the  player,  he  is  entitled  to  lift  it,  or 
hole  out  at  his  discretion ;  or  (2)  that  the  ball  of  the  other 
opponent  might  be  of  such  assistance,  he  may  require  that 
it  be  either  lifted  or  holed  out  at  the  other  opponent's  dis- 
cretion. 

33.  A  player  shall  not  ask  for  advice  from  any  one  except 
his  own  caddie,  his  partner,  or  his  partner's  caddie,  nor  shall 
he  willingly  be  otherwise  advised  in  any  way  whatever, 
under  penalty  of  the  loss  of  the  hole. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Penalty : 

In  Match  Play,  loss  of  the  hole. 
In  Medal  Play,  disqualification. 

34.  If  a  ball  split  into  separate  pieces,  another  ball  may 
be  put  down  where  the  largest  portion  lies,  or  if  two  pieces 
are  apparently  of  equal  size,  it  may  be  put  where  either 
piece  lies,  at  the  option  of  the  player.     If  a  ball  crack  or 
become  unfit  for  play,  the  player  may  change  it,  on  intima- 

228 


RULES      OF      GOLF 

ting  to  his  opponent  his  intention  to  do  so.  Mud  adher- 
ing to  a  ball  shall  not  be  considered  as  making  it  unfit  for 
play. 

35.  If  a  dispute  arise  on  any  point,  the  players  have  the 
right  of  determining  the  party  or  parties  to  whom  it  shall 
be  referred,  but  should  they  not  agree,  either  side  may  refer 
it  to  the  Rules  of  Golf  Committee,  whose  decision  shall  be 
final.  If  the  point  in  dispute  be  not  covered  by  the  Rules  of 
Golf,  the  arbiters  must  decide  it  by  equity. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Such  decisions  may  be  finally  referred  to  the 
Executive  Committee  of  the  United  States  Golf 
Association. 


SPECIAL    RULES    FOR    STROKE 
COMPETITIONS 

1.  In  stroke  competitions,  the  competitor  who  holes  the 
stipulated  course  in  fewest  strokes  shall  be  the  winner. 

2.  If  the  lowest  scores  be  made  by  two  or  more  competitors, 
the  tie  or  ties  shall  be  decided  by  another  round,  to  be  played 
on  the  same  day.     But  if  the  Green  Committee  determine 
that  to  be  inexpedient  or  impossible,  they  shall  then  appoint 
the  following  or  some  subsequent  day  whereon  the  tie  or 
ties  shall  be  decided. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

.Except  that  By-laws  15  and  19  of  the  United 
States  Golf  Association  provide  that,  in  case  of 

229 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

ties  for  the  sixteenth  place  in  the  Amateur  Cham- 
pionship medal  rounds,  or  for  the  eighth  place  in 
the  Women's  Championship  medal  rounds,  re- 
spectively, the  contestants  so  tied  shall  continue 
to  play  until  one  or  the  other  shall  have  gained  a 
lead  by  strokes,  the  hole  or  holes  to  be  played  out. 

3.  New  holes  shall  be  made  for  Stroke  Competitions,  and 
thereafter  no  competitor,  before  starting,  shall  play  any 
stroke  on  a  putting-green,  under  penalty  of  disqualification. 


RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Competitors  must  always  assume  that  new  holes 
have  been  made.  Practice  strokes  may  be  played 
through  the  green,  and  in  hazards. 

In  Match  Play  competitions,  other  than  bogey 
competitions,  practice  strokes  may  be  played  on 
the  putting-greens. 

4.  The  scores  shall  be  kept  by  a  special  marker,  or  by  the 
competitors  noting  each  other's  scores.     The  scores  marked 
shall  be  checked  after  each  hole.     On  completion  of  the  round, 
the  score  of  the  competitor  shall  be  signed  by  the  marker, 
countersigned  by  the  competitor,  and  handed  to  the  secretary 
or  his  deputy,  after  which,  unless  it  be  found  that  a  card  re- 
turned shows  a  score  below  that  actually  played  (in  which 
case  the  competitor  shall  be  disqualified),  no  correction  or 
alteration  can  be  made. 

5.  If  a  competitor  play  from  outside  the  limits  of  the  teeing- 
ground,  the  penalty  shall  be  disqualification. 

6.  If  a  ball  be  lost  (except  as  otherwise  provided  for  in  the 
Rules  of  Golf),  the  competitor  shall  return  as  near  as  possible 

230 


RULES      OF      GOLF 

to  the  spot  from  which  the  lost  ball  was  struck,  tee  a  ball,  and 
lose  a  stroke.  The  lost  ball  shall  continue  in  play,  if  it  be 
found  before  the  player  has  struck  another  ball. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Penalty  for  breach  of  this  Rule  shall  be  disqualifica- 
tion: 
" Otherwise  provided  for"  in  Rules  15,  31. 

7.  If  a  competitor's  ball  strike  himself,  his  clubs  or  caddie, 
the  penalty  shall  be  one  stroke. 

8.  If   a   competitor's    ball   strike   another   competitor,    or 
his  clubs  or  caddie,  it  is  a  "rub  of  the  green,"  and  the  ball 
shall  be  played  from  where  it  lies.     If  a  competitor's  ball, 
which  is  at  rest,  be  moved  by  another  competitor  or  his  caddie, 
or  his  club,  or  his  ball,  or  by  any  outside  agency  excepting 
wind,  it  shall  be  replaced  as  near  as  possible  to  the  place 
where  it  lay,  without  penalty. 

9.  A  competitor  shall  hole  out  with  his  own  ball  at  every 
hole,   under  penalty  of  disqualification      But  if  it  be  dis- 
covered, before  he  has  struck  off  from  the  next  teeing-ground, 
or,  if  the  mistake  occur  at  the  last  hole,  before  he  has  handed 
his  card  to  the  secretary  or  his  deputy,  that  he  has  not  holed 
out  with  his  own  ball,  he  shall  be  at  liberty  to  return  and 
hole  out  with  his  own  ball  without  penalty. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

If  he  fail  to  find  his  own  ball  he  shall  return  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  spot  from  which  he  last 
struck  it,  tee  a  ball,  and  lose  a  stroke.  (Medal 
Rule  6.) 

10.  A  ball  may  be  lifted  out  of  a  difficulty  of  any  de- 

231 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

scription,  and  teed,  if  possible,  behind  it,  under  penalty  of 
two  strokes.  If  it  be  impossible  to  tee  the  ball  behind  the 
difficulty,  it  shall  be  teed  as  near  as  possible  to  the  place 
where  it  lay,  but  not  nearer  the  hole. 

11.  All  balls  shall  be  holed  out,   under  penalty  of  dis- 
qualification.    When  a  competitor's  ball  is  within  twenty 
yards  of  a  hole,  the  competitor  shall  not  play  until  the  flag 
has   been   removed,    under   penalty   of   one   stroke.     If   the 
ball  nearer  the  hole  might  either  interfere  with  the  competitor's 
stroke,  or  in  any  way  assist  the  competitor,  such  ball  must 
be   holed   out  or   lifted,   at   the   owner's   option.     Through 
the  green  a  competitor  may  have  any  other  competitor's 
ball  lifted,  if  he  find  that  it  interferes  with  his  stroke. 

12.  A  competitor,  unless  specially  authorized  by  the  Green 
Committee,  shall  not  play  with  a  professional,  and  he  may 
not  willingly  receive  advice  from  any  one  but  his  caddie, 
in  any  way  whatever,  under  penalty  of  disqualification. 

A  forecaddie  may  be  employed. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 
Each  competitor  may  have  a  forecaddie. 

13.  Competitors  shall  not  discontinue  play  on  account  of 
bad  weather,  under  penalty  of  disqualification. 

14.  Where,  in  the  "Rules  of  Golf,"  the  penalty  for  the 
breach  of  any  rule  is  the  loss  of  the  hole,  in  the  Stroke  Com- 
petitions the  penalty  shall  be  the  loss  of  two  strokes,  ex- 
cept where  otherwise  provided  for  in  these  Special  Rules. 

15.  Any  dispute  regarding  the  play  shall  be  determined 
by  the  Rules  of  Golf  Committee. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

Such  decision  may  be  finally  referred  to  the 
232 


RULES      OF      GOLF 

Executive  Committee  of  the  United  States  Golf 
Association. 

16.  The  Rules  of  Golf,  so  far  as  they  are  not  at  variance 
with  these  Special  Rules,  shall  apply  to  Stroke  Competitions. 


ETIQUETTE    OF    GOLF 

1.  A  single  player  has  no  standing,   and  must  always 
give  way  to  a  properly  constituted  match. 

2.  No  player,   caddie,   or  onlooker  should  move  or  talk 
during  a  stroke. 

3.  No  player  should  play  from  the  tee  until  the  party  in 
front  have  played  their  second  strokes  and  are  out  of  range, 
nor  play  up  to  the  putting-green  till  the  party  in  front  have 
holed  out  and  moved  away. 

4.  The  player  who  has  the  honor  should  be  allowed  to 
play  before  his  opponent  tees  his  ball. 

5.  Players  who  have  holed  out  should  not  try  their  putts 
over  again  when  other  players  are  following  them. 

6.  Players  looking  for  a  lost  ball  must  allow  other  matches 
coming  up  to  pass  them. 

7.  On  request  being  made,  a  three-ball  match  must  allow  a 
single,  threesome,  or  foursome  to  pass.     Any  match  playing 
a  whole  round  may  claim  the  right  to  pass  a  match  playing 
a  shorter  round. 

8.  If  a  match  fail  to  keep  its  place  on  the  green,  and  lose 
in  distance  more  than  one  clear  hole  on  those  in  front,  it 
may  be  passed,  on  request  being  made. 

9.  Turf  cut  or  displaced  by  a  stroke  should  be  at  once 
replaced. 

10.  A  player  should  carefully  fill  up  all  holes  made  by 
himself  in  a  bunker. 

233 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

II.  It  is  the  duty  of  an  umpire  or  referee  to  take  cognizance 
of  any  breach  of  rule  that  he  may  observe,  whether  he  be 
appealed  to  on  the  point  or  not. 

RULING  OF  THE  U.  S.  G.  A. 

The  "Etiquette  of  Golf"  shall  be  as  binding 
upon  players  as  the  other  Rules  of  ihe  game. 


INDEX    TO    RULES 

The  Italics  refer  to  the  Rules  for  Stroke  Competitions. 

RULE 

Addressing,  ball  touched  in 9 

ball  moved  in  act  of 27 

the  ball 12,  13 

Advice,  asking  for 33 

"  competitor  receiving 12 

Bad  tceather 13 

Ball,  action  of  wind  on 20 

"     altered  lie  of 17 

"     addressing  the 9,  [p] 

"     anything  fixed  or  growing  near 12 

"     assisting  competitor II 

"     at  rest,  displaced  by  outside  agency 23 

"     displaced  by  wind 23 

"     moved 8 

"     replaced  by  hand  on  putting-green 23 

cracked 34 

"     dropping  a 6,  9,  II,  15,  16,  23,  31 

fairly  struck  at 7 

"     falling  off  tee 4 

"     into  hole 22 

"     how  dropped 16 

"     in  casual  water 15 

"     in  motion,  stopped  by  outside  agency 23 

"     in  or  touching  a  hazard 13 

"     in  play,  definition 6,  [i] 

"     interfering  with  stroke II 

235 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

RULE 

Ball,  in  three-ball  match 32 

in  water 15 

in  whins,  bent,   fog,   etc 30 

knocking  away  opponent's 22 

lie  altered 17 

"     lifted -.  .  .  n,  17,  32 

in  hazard 1 1 

"     out  of  difficulty „ 10 

lifting  opponent's 17,  32 

or  holing-out  in  three-ball  match 32 

lodged  in  anything  moving 23 

"     lost 29,  30,  [k] 

"     lost 6.  [k] 

"     lying  in  golf-hole  or  flag-hole II 

"     moved 9,  n,  17,  [jl 

"      by  outside  agency 8 

"      in  act  of  addressing 27 

in  hazard 27 

when  no  strike  intended 27 

moving 3,  4 

"        after  loose  impediment  touched 10,  18 

"        opponent's 9,  17,  18,  22 

mud  adhering  to 34 

not  in  match,  playing 28 

on  clothes,  net,  etc II 

opponent's,  at  rest  on  putting-green 21 

displaced 22 

falling  into  hole 22 

"     out  of  bounds 31 

playing  out  of  turn 2,  6 

"         outside  teeing-ground 2 

"        outside  teeing-ground 5 

"         wherever  it  lies 8 

"         opponent's 28 

"     replaced 4,  II,  17,  22,  23 

"     resting  against  flag-stick 24 

"     re-teed 2 

"     split  into  pieces 32 

"     striking  another  competitor 8 

"     striking  competitor,  etc 7 

236 


INDEX      TO      RULES 

RULE 

Ball,  striking  or  moved  by  opponent,  his  caddie,  or  clubs  24 
striking  or  stopped  by  player,  his  partner,  caddie, 

or  clubs 24,  25 

struck  twice 26 

touched  in  addressing 9,  [p] 

unfit  for  play 34 

Balls  exchanged 28 

"     lost 29 

holed  out II 

within  club-length  of  each  other 17 

within  six  inches  of  each  other  on  putting-green.  .    17 

Bounds,  ball  out  of 31 

"    "  definition [g] 

Breach  of  Rules,  penalty  for 14 

Caddie,  ball  striking  or  stopped  by 24,  25 

"       may  stand  at  hole 20 

Casual  water,  ball  in 15 

definition [h] 

"       in  hazard 15 

"       not  in  hazard [e] 

Clothes,  net,  etc.,  ball  on 1 1 

Club,  when  grounded : 27,  [p] 

Competitor  receiving  advice 12 

holing  out 9 

playing  before  flag  removed 1 1 

discontinuing  play  on  account  of  bad  weather  13 

playing  with  professional 12 

Correction  of  score-card 4 

Definitions  of  addressing  ball [p] 

'  ball  in  play [i] 

"  casual  water [h] 

"  foursome [a] 

'  the  game [b] 

"  halved  hole [b] 

"  a  hazard [c] 

"  the  honor [o] 

"  lost  ball [k] 

"  a  match [1] 

237 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

RULE 

Definitions  of  moved [j] 

"  out  of  bounds [g] 

"  penalty  stroke [n] 

"    putting-green [d] 

"    a  side [a] 

"   a  single [a] 

"   a  stroke [m] 

"   reckoning  of  strokes [q] 

"  reckoning  of  holes [q] 

"   teeing-grounds [c] 

"  a  threesome [a] 

"   through  the  green [f] 

Difficulty,  lifting  out  of 10 

Disputes,  deciding 35 

determined  by  Rules  of  Golf  Committee 15 

referring  to  Rules  of  Golf  Committee 35 

Distance,   loss  of 31 

Dung,  removal  of 14 

"       on  putting-green,  removal  of 19 

Flag,  removing II 

Flag-hole,  ball  lying  in 1 1 

Flag-stick,  removing 22 

"        "        ball  resting  against 22 

Forecaddie,  ball  in  .motion,  stopped  by 23 

may  be  employed 12 

Foursome 5,  [a] 

playing  out  of  turn  in 5 

Golf-hole,  ball  lying  in II 

Grass,  whin,  etc 13,  [e] 

Ground  under  repair,  etc.,  ball  on II 

Halved  hole,   definition [b] 

Hazard,  ball  lifted  in II 

ball  lying  in  or  touching 13 

"         ball  in  water  in 15 

"         ball  removed  in , 27,  [p] 

"         casual  water  in 15 

"     not  in [e] 

238 


INDEX      TO      RULES 

RULE 

Hazard,  definition [e] 

"  permanent  grass  in [e] 

"  sand  blown  on  grass,  not  a [e] 

Hole,  dimension  of [c] 

"  partner  or  caddie  may  stand  at 20 

Holing  out 9,11 

"  mistake  in.  . . . 9 

Holes,  reckoning  of I,  [q] 

"  new,  for  stroke  competition 3 

Honor,  the 2,  [s] 

Impediment,  loose,  removal  of 10,  13,  18 

more  than  club-length  from  ball. 10 

touched,  ball  removing  after 18 

Irregularities  of  surface 14 

Lie  of  ball  altered 17 

Line  drawn   on   putting-green 20 

"     of  putt  pointed  out 20 

"     "     touching 19 

Match,  beginning  of,  described 2 

definition I,  [1] 

Mole-hills 14,  19 

Nets,  etc.,  ball  on II 

Obstacles,  immovable „ 13 

Obstructions,  ball  lying  on  or  touching II 

Opponent,  etc.,  ball  striking  or  moved  by 24 

Opponent's   ball  displaced 22 

"       at  rest  on  putting-green 21 

knocking  away,  knocking  in,  etc 22 

"      moving .  .  . .  .  .9,  17,  18,  22 

"      player  playing 28 

Out  of  bounds,  ball  driven 31 

definition  of I,  [g] 

Outside  agency 23 

ball  moved  by 8 

Partner  may  stand  at  hole 20 

239 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

RULE 

Penalty  stroke,  definition i^  [n] 

for  breach  of  rules 14 

counted  stroke  of  player 27 

"        under  Rule  27,  not  counted  stroke  of  player 3 

PENALTY    (l)   LOSS   OF   HOLE 

Penalty  for  playing  a  wrong  ball  except  at  tee 3 

'    playing  out  of  turn 5 

"    unfair  stroke 7 

"    removing  loose  impediment  wrongfully 10 

'    moving,  etc.,  anything  fixed  or  growing.  ...    12 

'    improving  lie,  or  touching  anything  in  hazard  13 

pressing  down  or  removing  irregularities  ....    14 

"    touching  line  of  putt,  etc 19 

"   marking  line  of  putt,  etc 20 

'    ball  striking  or  removed  by  opponent,  etc ....   24 

'    ball  striking  or  stopped  by  player,  etc 25 

'    playing  opponent's  ball  (under  exceptions) .  .    28 

'    playing  ball  not  in  match 28 

"   lost  ball 29 

"    breach    of    rule   as    to    touching,    fog,   bent, 

whins,  etc 30 

"    asking  for  advice  wrongfully 33 

(2)  LOSS  OF  ONE  STROKE 

Penalty  for  moving  or  touching  without  consent 9 

'    dropping  ball,  lying  or  lost  in  water 15 

'    playing  on  putting-green  before  opponent's 

ball  at  rest 21 

"   striking  ball  twice 26 

"    ball  moved,  when  no  stroke  intended 27 

'    moved  in  hazard 27 

"   lost 6 

"      "    striking  competitor,  etc 7 

'    playing  before  flag  removed n 

(3)   LOSS  OF  TWO  STROKES 

Penalty  for  lifting  a  ball  out  of  difficulty . 10 

240 


INDEX      TO      RULES 

RULE 

Penalty  when,  in  the  rule  of  Golf,  the  penalty  for  the  breach 
of  any  rule  is  the  loss  of  the  hole  (except  as  other- 
wise provided  in  Special  Rules) 14 

(4)   DISQUALIFICATION 

Penalty  for  playing  on  putting-green  before  starting 3 

'    returning  score  below  that  actually  made 4 

playing  from  outside   teeing-ground 5 

"    competitor  not  holing  out  with  his  own  ball.  .     9 

"   ball  not  holed  out 1 1 

'    receiving   advice   wrongfully 12 

"    discontinuing  play  on  account  of  bad  weather.  13 

Player,    etc.,  ball  striking 25 

striking  ball  twice 26 

Playing  ball   not   in   match 28 

opponent's  ball 28 

"         out  of  turn 5,   6 

outside  teeing-ground 2,  [c] 

outside  teeing  -  ground , ,     5 

playing  with  professional  competitor 12 

Putt,  pointing  out  line  of 20 

touching  line  of 19 

Putting-green,  ball  in  casual  water  on 15 

balls  within  six  inches  of  each  other  on .  .17 
competitor  playing  stroke  before  starting  on     3 

definition I,  [d] 

loose  impediments  on 13,   18 

no  mark  placed  on 20 

opponent's  ball  at  rest  on 21 

removing  sand,  earth,  dung,  etc.,  on.  ...    19 
"         removing  snow  or  ice  on .    19 

Re-teeing  ball 2 

"  Rub  of  the  green  " 23 

Rub  of  the  green 8 

Rules  of  Golf  when  not  at  variance  with  Special  Rules .  .  16 

Sand  blown  on  grass  or  sprinkled  on  course I,  [e] 

Score-card,  mistake  in 4 

24I 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 


RULE 


Scores,  how  kept 4 

Side,  definition I,  [a] 

Single,  definition I,  [a] 

Snow  and  ice  not  hazards i(  [e] 

on  putting-green,  removing 19 

Soling  club 12 

Split  ball 34 

Striking  ball  twice 26 

Stroke,  definition I,  [m] 

penalty  counted  as  stroke  of  player 27 

penalty,  definition I,  [m] 

competition  deciding  ties  in 2 

how  won I 

new  holes  made  for 3 

Strokes,  reckoning   of i,  [q] 

Surface,  irregularities  of 14 

Tee,  ball  falling  off '.....     4 

Teeing-ground,  definition I,  [c] 

ball  played  outside 2 

"         ball  played  outside 5 

Three-ball  match,  definition I,  [a] 

"         lifting  or  holing  out  in 32 

Threesome I,  5,  [a] 

Through  the  green,  definition I,  [f] 

Ties,  deciding 2 

Two  strokes,  penalty  of 14 

Vessel,  etc.,  on  course „ II 

Water  in  hazard I,  [e] 

"       ball  in 15 

casual,  definition I,  [h] 

casual,  not  a  hazard I,  [e] 

Weather,  discontinuing  play  on  account  of 13 

Wheelbarrow,  etc.,  on  course II 

Whins,  long  grass,  etc.,  ball  in 30 

Wind,  action  of,  on  ball 20 

"      ball  at  rest,  displaced  by 23 

"     ball  at  rest,  displaced   by 8 

242 


INDEX      TO      RULES 

RULE 

Worm-casts,  mole-hills,  etc 14 

on  putting-green,  removing 19 

Wrong  ball 28 

"      information  by  opponent,  etc 28 


Etiquette  of  Golf 207 


GLOSSARY 


TECHNICAL  TERMS  USED   IN  CONNECTION  WITH 
THE    GAME    OF    GOLF 

Addressing  the  Ball — The  act  of  the  player  placing  himself 
in  position  to  strike  the  ball. 

Approaching — Playing  a  ball  on  to  the  putting-green. 

Back  Spin— See  Undercut. 

Baffy-spoon  or  Baffy — A  wooden  club  with  a  short  shaft  and 
very  much  lofted  in  the  face,  formerly  used  for  approaching. 

Bogey,  Colonel — See  page  183. 

Bone  or  Fibre — A  piece  of  horn  or  wood  fibre,  or  other 
material,  inserted  in  the  sole  of  wooden  clubs,  to  prevent 
the  face  from  being  injured  at  the  bottom. 

Borrow — When  a  putt  requires  to  be  played  across  sloping 
ground,  the  player  must  borrow,  or  play  the  ball  a  little 
up  the  slope  to  counteract  the  effect  of  its  falling  off  down 
hill  while  rolling  towards  the  hole. 

Brassey — A  wooden  club  with  a  brass  plate  on  the  sole. 
Vide  page  124. 

Bulger — A  club  with  a  convex  face.     Vide  page  118. 

Bunker — A  generic  term  ordinarily  used  to  comprehend 
all  hazards  of  an  artificial  nature. 

Bye — A  hole  or  holes  which  remain  to  be  played  after 
the  match  is  finished. 

Bye-bye — A  hole  or  holes  which  remain  to  be  played  after 
the  bye  is  finished. 

Caddie — The  person  who  carries  the  golfer's  clubs. 

Carry — The  distance  from  where  a  ball  is  driven  to  where 
it  alights. 

244 


G  L  O  S  S  A  R  Y 

Cleek — A  club  with  an  iron  head.     Vide  page  126. 

Club — The  implement  with  which  the  ball  is  struck. 

Cop — The  top  or  face  of  a  bunker. 

Course — The  ground  upon  which  golf  is  played. 

Cup — A  small  hole  in  the  course,  of  varying  depth,  usually 
made  by  the  stroke  of  some  previous  player.  Sometimes 
used  also  to  indicate  the  hole  in  the  putting-green  into  which 
the  ball  is  played. 

Dead — When  a  ball  alights  without  rolling  it  is  said  to  fall 
"  dead."  A  ball  is  also  said  to  be  "  dead  "  when  it  is  so  near  the 
hole  that  the  player  is  certain  to  hole  it  on  the  next  stroke. 

Divot — The  piece  of  turf  displaced  by  a  player  when  mak- 
ing a  stroke. 

Dormy — A  player  is  "  dormy  "  when  he  is  as  many  holes 
ahead  of  his  opponent  as  there  remain  holes  to  be  played. 

Driver — The  wooden  club  with  which  tee  shots  are  usually 
played. 

Driving — Used  in  two  senses  :  first,  playing  tee  shots  ; 
and,  second,  playing  any  full  strokes. 

Driving-iron        )  Iron  clubs  for  playing  tee  shots.     Vide 

Driving  Mashie  )      page  133. 

Even — See  Square. 

Face — That  part  of  the  club  head  which  strikes  the  ball. 

Flat — A  club  has  a  *  flat "  lie  when  the  head  is  at  a  very 
obtuse  angle  to  the  shaft. 

Flub— Vide  Foozle. 

Fluke — Bringing  off  a  shot  successfully  which  was  not 
played  for  or  contemplated. 

Fog — Moss ;  also  thick,  rank  grass. 

Follow-through — The  continuation  of  the  stroke  after  the 
ball  has  been  struck. 

Foozle — A  badly  played  stroke. 

Fore — A  corruption  of  "  Before."  The  warning  cry  which 
a  golfer  gives  to  any  person  liable  to  be  struck  by  the  ball 
which  he  has  driven  or  is  about  to  drive. 

Forecaddie — A  person  employed  to  go  ahead  of  the  players 
to  watch  where  their  balls  go. 

Foursome — A  match  in  which  four  persons  take  part — 
two,  playing  alternately,  playing  against  the  other  two, 
likewise  playing  alternately. 

245 


PRACTICAL       GOLF 

Gobble — A  putt  played  with  such  force  that,  although 
it  goes  into  the  hole,  would  otherwise  have  gone  some  dis- 
tance beyond. 

Green — First,  the  whole  links  or  course ;  second,  the  putt- 
ing-green within  twenty  yards  of  a  hole,  exclusive  of  hazards. 

Grip — First,  the  part  of  the  club  -  shaft  grasped  by  the 
player  ;  second,  the  grasp  itself. 

Half — First,  a  stroke  allowed  on  every  alternate  hole ; 
second,  the  term  usually  applied  when  a  hole  has  been  made 
by  each  player  in  the  same  number  of  strokes. 

Half  Shot — A  stroke  midway  between  a  full  and  a  quar- 
ter shot. 

Halved — A  hole  is  "halved"  when  each  side  takes  the 
same  number  of  strokes.  A  match  is  halved  when  both 
sides  have  won  the  same  number  of  holes. 

Hanging  Lie — A  ball  which  lies  on  ground  sloping  down- 
ward in  the  direction  of  play. 

Hazard — A  comprehensive  term  for  bunkers,  water,  sand, 
loose  earth,  paths,  roads  or  railways,  bushes,  fences, 
ditches,  or  anything  outside  of  the  fair-green. 

Head — That  part  of  the  club  unattached  to  the  shaft. 

Heel — First,  that  part  of  the  head  between  the  face  and 
the  neck ;  second,  to  hit  the  ball  off  the  heel. 

Hole — First,  the  hole  in  the  putting-green;  second,  the 
act  of  playing  the  ball  thereinto ;  third,  the  whole  space 
between  the  teeing-ground  and  the  putting-green. 

Honor — The  privilege  of  playing  off  first  from  the  tee. 

Hook — See  Pull.  Hook  on  a  club  refers  to  the  face,  when 
the  head  is  placed  flat  on  the  ground,  lying  in  to  the  ball. 
Also  used  to  describe  a  ball  played  to  the  left  of  the  line  of 
play. 

Horn — See  Bone. 

Hose — The  socket  of  irons  into  which  the  shaft  is  fitted. 

Iron — A  club  with  an  iron  head. 

Jerk — First  when  a  stroke  is  played  with  *  jerk  "  the 
club  head,  after  striking  the  ball,  digs  into  the  ground ; 
second,  additional  force  exerted  spasmodically  before  striking 
the  ball. 

Jigger — An  iron  club  between  a  mid-iron  and  a  mashie. 

Lie — First,  the  lie  of  a  club  refers  to  the  angle  of  the  head 
246 


GLOSSARY 

to  the  shaft ;  second,  with  reference  to  the  position  of  the 
ball  in  relation  to  its  immediate  surroundings,  a  good  lie 
signifying  that  the  ball  lies  clear  of  all  obstructions,  and  a 
bad  lie  signifying  that  it  lies  in  a  hole  or  in  heavy  grass,  etc. 

Lift — To  lift  a  ball  is  to  take  it  out  of  a  hazard  or  elsewhere 
and  drop  or  tee  it  in  accordance  with  the  Rules.  Used  also 
to  indicate  when  a  player  lifts  his  ball  after  playing  several 
more  strokes  than  his  opponent,  and  thereby  conceding  the 
hole  as  lost. 

Like — The  like  is  the  stroke  which  equalizes  the  number 
played  by  the  other  side.  Thus,  after  the  tee-shots  have 
been  played,  the  player  farthest  from  the  hole  plays  the 
"  odd,"  and,  if  he  places  the  ball  nearer  the  hole  than  his 
opponent,  his  opponent  then  plays  the  *  like,"  and  the  players 
are  said  to  be  "  like  as  they  lie." 

Like  as  We  Lie — When  both  players  have  played  the 
same  number  of  strokes.  See  Like. 

Links — The  ground  on  which  golf  is  played.     See  Course. 

Loft — First,  to  send  the  ball  into  the  air ;  second,  the  degree 
of  angle  to  which  the  face  of  a  club  is  laid  back. 

Lofter — A  lofting-iron. 

Lofting-iron — A  club  with  an  iron  head  with  more  or  less 
loft  in  the  face ;  used  to  pitch  the  ball  in  the  air. 

Long  Game — Driving  and  playing  full  shots  through 
the  green. 

Mashie — An  iron  club,  with  a  deep,  short  blade,  more  or 
less  lofted. 

Match — First,  the  sides  playing  against  each  other ;  second, 
the  game  itself. 

Match  Play — Golf  played  by  holes  only. 

Medal  Play—Go\i  played  by  strokes  only, 

Mid-iron — An  iron-headed  club  with  more  loft  on  the 
face  than  a  cleek. 

Neck — The  bent  part  of  the  head  of  the  club  where  it  is 
connected  with  the  shaft. 

Niblick — An  iron  club  with  a  small,  heavy  head,  well 
lofted,  used  to  play  the  ball  out  of  bunkers,  hazards,  and 
bad  lies. 

Nose — See  Toe.  The  pointed  part  of  the  club  farthest 
away  from  the  player. 

247 


PRACTICAL      GOLF 

Odd— To  play  the  "  odd  "  is  to  play  one  stroke  more  than 
one's  opponent. 

One  off  Two,  One  off  Three,  etc. — When  your  opponent  has 
played  three  strokes  more,  your  next  stroke  is  "  one  off  three"; 
when  he  has  played  "  two  more,"  your  next  stroke  is  "  one 
off  two,"  and  so  on. 

Play-club — See  Driver. 

Press — To  strive  to  hit  the  ball  harder  than  usual,  in  order 
to  get  greater  distance. 

Pull— See  Hook. 

Putt — To  play  a  stroke  on  the  putting-green. 

Putter — A  club  used  for  putting. 

Quarter  Shot — A  stroke  less  than  a  half  shot. 

Rub  of  the  Green — Whatever  happens  to  a  ball  in  motion, 
such  as  its  being  deflected  or  stopped  by  any  agency  outside 
the  match,  or  by  the  forecaddie,  is  a  rub  of  the  green,  and 
the  ball  must  be  played  from  where  it  lies. 

Run — First,  to  play  the  ball  along  the  ground  instead  of 
lofting  it ;  second,  the  run  of  a  drive  is  the  distance  the  ball 
runs  after  alighting. 

Scare — The  part  of  the  club  where  the  head  and  shaft 
are  spliced  together. 

Sclaff — To  hit  the  ground  before  striking  the  ball,  thus 
robbing  the  stroke  of  a  good  deal  of  its  strength. 

Scratch  Player — One  who  does  not  receive  any  handicap 
allowance. 

Screamer — A  very  long  stroke,  so  called  from  the  whistling 
noise  made  by  the  ball. 

Shaft— The  handle  of  the  club. 

Short  Game — Approaching  and  putting. 

Slice — First,  to  draw  the  face  of  the  club  across  the  ball 
from  right  to  left  in  the  act  of  hitting  it ;  second,  the  flight 
described  by  the  ball  so  struck. 

Socket — The  part  of  the  head  of  iron  clubs  into  which  the 
shaft  is  fitted. 

Socket  Clubs — Clubs  which  have  the  shaft  running  down 
into  the  neck. 

Sole — The  flat  bottom  part  of  the  club  head  which  rests 
on  the  ground. 

Spoons — Clubs  with  wooden  heads,  more  or  less  lofted. 
248 


G.L  O  S  S  A  R  Y 

Spring — The  degree  of  suppleness  of  the  shaft. 

Square — Said  of  a  game  when  it  stands  level,  neither 
side  being  any  holes  ahead. 

Stance — The  position  of  the  player's  feet  when  he  ad- 
dresses the  ball. 

Steal — To  hole  a  long,  unlikely  putt  so  that  it  just  drops 
into  the  hole. 

Stroke — Any  movement  of  the  club  which  is  intended  to 
strike  the  ball. 

Stymie — When  the  balls,  near  the  hole,  are  directly  in 
the  line  of  play  and  more  than  six  inches  away  from  each 
other.  Sometimes  applied  also  to  a  tree  or  other  obstruction 
in  the  direct  line  of  play. 

Swing — The  manner  in  which  the  club  is  swung  when 
in  the  act  of  hitting  the  ball. 

Tee — The  elevation,  usually  a  small  pinch  of  sand,  on 
which  the  ball  is  placed  for  the  first  stroke  to  each  hole. 

Teeing- ground — The  space  marked  out  within  the  limits 
of  which  the  ball  must  be  teed. 

Third — A  handicap  of  one  stroke  allowed  at  every  third 
hole. 

Three-quarter  Stroke — A  stroke  of  less  distance  than  a 
full  stroke,  but  more  than  a  half  stroke. 

Toe— See  Nose. 

Top — To  hit  the  ball  above  its  centre. 

Two  More — To  play  two  strokes  more  than  one's  opponent, 
and  so  on. 

Undercut — To  hit  the  ball  beneath  the  centre,  so  that  it 
rises  high  in  the  air  and  runs  comparatively  little  alter 
alighting. 

Upright — See  Lie. 

Whipping — The  twine  with  which  the  club  head  and  shaft 
are  bound  together. 

Wrist  Shot—See  Quarter  Shot. 


INDEX 


Approaching,  42 

Balance,  6—8 

Balls,  134-140,  192 

Brassey,  36.  124 

Bulger,  118 

Bunker,  157 

Cleek,  127 

Clubs,  108,  131,  201 

Cut,  49 

Driver,  108,  124 

Driving,  7,  22,  118 

Driving-iron,  133 

Fee/  or  Balance,  7 

Follow-through,  24,  32 

General  Remarks,  97—107 

Glossary  of  Technical  Terms, 

218 

Greens,  159-171 
Grt/>  o/  c/wo,  II,  72 
Ha//  s/iote,  132 
Handicapping,  172 
Hanging  lie,  40 
Hazards,  87,  l8l 
Heeling,  49 
Ho/e,  153,  154,  166 
Honor,  207 
Hooking,  118 
Irons,  127 
Jerking,  21,  46 
Learning  golf,  1-4 
Leather  faces,  112 
Length  of  drives,  22 
Length  of  holes,  35 
Links,  145 


Lofting,  55,  56,  80 

-Long  game,  22,  30 

Mashie,  45,  127 

Ma£c/t  />/ay,  106,  177 

Meda/  £/a;y,  104,  105 

Niblick,  133 

Ow£  o/  form,  100 

Physical  strength,  22 

Play  through  the  green,  42 

Position  of  ball,  27 

Practising,  97,  102,  103 

Pressing,  21 

Pulling,  14,  27,  35 

Putters  and  putting,  63,76, 120 

.Rw/es  o/  go//,  181 

Sclaffing,  21,  39 

Shafts,  121—124 

Slicing,  11-14,  27,  99 

Spoons,  132 

Stance,  4,  71 

Stymies,  83 

Swing,  15,  20 

Technical  terms,  218 

Teeing-grounds,  156 

Tees,  156 

Three-quarter  strokes,  132 

Topping,  1 01 

Tournament  play,  103 

Training,  104 

Undercut,  53 

Upkeep  of  links,  145 

PPatertng  greens,  159 

Wind,  54 

JFrt'sJ  worfc,  17 

251 


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